DIY: AxialFlow Shifter Install
 

At the moment I have no pictures of the car, I'll add them when recieved.
The shifter is delivered with a kit having two plates, 4 screws, 2 dowels and a plastic rod.
The small plate and plastic rod are installation tools only.

Remove the console top as the S1, refer to the S1 if need be, but it is self explanitory. There are two new things to add. To remove the shiftboot just yank on the boot to remove. We've been doing it this way for years now and have better results at not breaking the tab than the old way. Removing the wire clips has been the hardest part of getting things apart. Now we've started just using a 90 degree bent needlenose under the clip and prying it up and off. Works fine, you can put it back on or not.

Remove the stock gate by taking the three bolts out, and lifting the shifter. Be sure it is in nutral with the brake on. Next remove the 4 12mm bolts that hold the shift tower to the trans. You might want to let it cool down before this.
You will not be able to remove the casting without a puller. This s due to the dowel pins. Here is where the little plate and plastic rod come in. Drop the rod into the place where the shifter was, then bolt the little plate where the shifter lockdown used to go. This will snap the casting off. It doesn't take nuch pressure here. Remove the plastic rod from the trans.

Turning the casting over on a bench you will remove the existing dowel pins. You can do this with a vice grip pliers by holding the pin and twisting. A screwdriver under the pliers sometimes helps. Install the new pins provided by tapping them in. Be sure they are tight, if not centerpunch on each side of the pin.

Clean the surfaces with some sort of thinner or acitone. Use a small (1/8 inch) bead of high temp RTV on both the trans and the tower. Place the spacer plate on the trans and then the tower. Using the dowel pins to align things up it only goes one way.

Use the 4 new bolts (13mm) to hold the casting down. You will find that a 13mm wigely socket helpfull here. 1/4 or 3/8 drive.

Put some greese on the sphere pivot of the stick. Don't worry about the lower bearing as it will sit in oil. If you are not in gear the lower bushing should be level and you can drop the shifter right in. Be sure the upper bearing sleeve has the two notches over the pins. It will not seat otherwise. Everything should drop in without force.

Now bolt the stock gate back on using the old bolts. Test that you can get all gears. Then you can replace all the stock parts on top.

If you have any problems Email me direct with your feedback. rap@axialflow.com
I would like comments from the first few users to find any problems that may exist.

fyi.... so far on the 2010 the dowel is too long.....

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-g...421_121907.jpg

bolts are far too short to get in there .....

i suppose i could try shortening the dowel?

Use longer bolts or shorten it. Not a CNC part, I just cut them by eye on the band saw. You can grind it on a bench grinder. Or you can use a socket with short extension, just play with parts till you find the right size.

Or getting some longer bolts :)

All you are using that for is to pull the top part of the transmission case off....so either the rod or the bolts :)...in the end it doesn't matter much

We're watching you. You've only got till the top of the hour to finish.:yesnod:

sweet deal just wanted to make sure i wasn't missing something obvious. Got it with a long socket :)

btw taking lots of pics for you :)

All done, pics uploading

DIY: Axial Flow S2 Short Shifter Install
 

Hope Richard doesn't mind me posting this since he already started one, if so I am sure the mods can merge the threads. Anyway, here is my experience with installing the AFE SS on a 2010 Sport.

Package Contents

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335031202

Shifter, 4 13mm Bolts, 2 Pins, 1 Dowel, 1 Spacer, 1 Puller

The Patient

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335031202

Examine the patient ... she is about to undergo some cosmetic surgery ... but dont worry...she wants this ... she is sedated, she wont feel a thing ;)

Remove The Console Tab

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335031202

Start by removing the tab from the center console. This is very easy if you have the Parking Brake engaged. I simply stick my finger in through where the Parking Brake is, and pop out the tab.

Remove Console

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335031202

With the tab removed, you can now pull off the console. The console is held on by tabs so be careful that you dont break them when pulling. The easiest way to do this is to stick your finger into the hole created by the tab that you removed. You should be able to feel one of the clips. Simply push up and you will see the console start to pop out.

Remove Ash Tray

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335031202

To make life easier, remove the ashtray by unscrewing the two screws that are holding it in place. The ash tray is also clipped in so gently pull forward and it should pop right out. Be aware that there are a few wires to hold the ligher and lights on the ash tray, simply put the ash tray to the side without stressing the wires.

Start Removing The Plate That Holds The Shifter Down

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335031678

There are 4 nuts that need to be removed. Be aware that the parking brake wire and the seat heater wires are clipped onto two of the 4 studs. I had removed these in a previous modification I did so I do not have a picture showing this. You can remove the clips that hold the wires on the studs with a small screwdriver and a pair of pliers.

Remove The Shifter Plate

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335031678

With the nuts removed, you can now remove the shifter plate. Simply start pulling up. You will notice that the rubber around the shifter is held on by a plastic ring. I found that the easiest way to remove this is to start pulling the rubber up, stick your fingers below the ring, and gently slide the ring up. Both the ring and the plate should come off at the same time.

Remove Transmission Gromet

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335031678

Once you remove the shifter plate, you will see a rubber grommet that is covering the hole in the trasmission tunnel. This is simply removed by pulling it off, there is nothing really holding it on

Remove The Shift Gate

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335031678

Start removing the stock shift gate using a 10mm socket. There should be 3 bolts in all.

Remove the OEM Shifter

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335031678

With the shift gate unbolted, the oem shifter should simply pull up. Remove the shifter and put it aside as you will need to remove the gate in a future step.

Start Unbolting The Transmission Tower

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335032144

Using a 12mm socket, start removing the transmission tower. This part gets a bit tricky due to clearance, but take your time, and if available, use one of the 'wiggly' sockets. Remove these bolts and put them aside, you will not need them.

Insert Dowel

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335032144

Next, insert the plastic dowel into the shifter hole.

Install Puller Plate

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335032144

With the dowel installed, you can now mount the puller plate. Take note that the puller plate should sit with enough clearance that the shift gate bolts can thread in with a few turns.

Note: In my case the dowel was too long for the bolts to reach the shift gate holes, if that is the case, use either longer bolts, trim the dowel, or what I did was take an impact wrench socket as it was the perfect size for me

Like installing wheels, start threading in the bolts in a "star" pattern. The tower should simply pop off.

Trans Tower Removed

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335032144

This is what you will be left with. Ignore the obscene amounts of tranny fluid here, this was from a previous test where I tried to fill the tranny fluid from the shifter hole .... it doesn't work hehe.

Examine The Tower

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335032144

With the tower removed, take it to a workbench and turn it over. Take note of the pins. We will be removing these.

Remove OEM Pins

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335032715

Using a pair of pliers or vice grips, remove the pins from the transmission tower. Don't judge my use of an ikea plier...they are some of the most comfortable pair of pliers I have ever come across :rofl:

Install New Pins

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335032715

Install the new pins by simply placing them back in the OEM hole and tapping them in. They should fit snug, if not, center punch them so that they don't fall out when you turn over the tower.

Apply some RTV to the top of the transmission

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335032715

Just a small bead will do, I took a bead here and spread it because I didn't want to risk some goop falling into the tranny. Use your own discretion here

Install the Spacer

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335032715

Now place the spacer on top. Make sure you have oriented it properly as it will only fit one way due to the cutouts for the pins.

Replace the Tranny Tower

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335032715

Apply just a bit of RTV on the tranny tower like we did on the base, and place the tower on the transmission. Just like the spacer, the tower goes one way, be aware of the pins.

Grease Pivot Ball On Shifter

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335033378

Apply a small amount of grease to the pivot ball of the new shifter. Do not worry about the lower pivot point as that sits in some grease inside the transmission.

Install the Shifter

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335033380

Now you can install the new shifter. Take note that the shifter only goes in one way so do not try to force the shifter in, it should gently fall into place. Take note of the cutouts on the plastic shifter plate, for this to go in properly, the tabs must align with the pins on the transmission, again, do not force this piece in.

Shifter Installed

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335033378

Here is what the shifter looks like when it is in place.

Replace OEM Shift Gate

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335033631

Remove the shift gate from the OEM shifter. This is held in by clips so gently pull so that it unclips from the stock shifter. Bolt down the gate using the OEM bolts you removed before.

Contrats! Test and Reinstall The Console

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...4&d=1335033380

With the shifter now bolted down, try to shift through each gear. Make sure you can get into each gear as well as reverse. Once you have confirmed this, start reinstalling everything in reverse order. Replace the transmission tunnel gromet, and then the plate that covers the transmission grommet. Make sure that the plastic ring is snug around the white base of the shifter. Replace the console, and screw your shifter back on.

GREAT WORK PAIMON...Again....:ylsuper:

Gold Star M8 :Peace:

Great job, this is the DIY to use not mine. If mods want to take mine down it's OK with me.

Thanks guys, and thank you Richard for all of the time and hard work you put into this. Just took a quick drive to give it a test and I am loving the feel! Some bullets:

- Installation was as simple as it could be given the design of the S2 transmission.
- Hardest part of install was getting the tower off, and that is only because my dowel was a bit long. And by "hardest" i mean on a scale from 1 - 10 with 10 being the easiest, it was a 9 lol.
- Shifting feels SOLID. Something that was stated multiple times by the S1 guys with their shifters. Regardless of the shortened throw, the OEM shifter feels lacking in quality.
- Throw is most certainly shortened. I dont know what the rated reduction is (RP?), but the shift throw feels significantly shorter, at least 25% shorter (possibly more)
- Buyers should understand the difference between short shifter and short throw shifter, correct me if I am wrong but this is a short throw shifter. What I mean by that is that when installed the shifter sits a tad higher than the oem shifter. I know some people will order this and think that their shifter will sit lower, that isn't the case. The purpose of this shifter (as i have come to understand) is a reduction in throw (aka, function over cosmetic)
- Shifter is a bit louder, but I like that. What i mean is that each gear "clicks" into place, again this is due to the materials used in the shifter (which we can assume is why the oem shifter has softer material, noise reduction)

I will continue to post some more details over time. Feel free to correct me on any of my comments!

Thanks again Richard! This is a must have mod for S2 owners...probably one of the first legitimate mods made just for the S2!

Is there one of these for the series 1?
searched it found this, just got my AFE SS today.

AHH thank you very much sir much appreciated!

Great DIY on this product, I am very interested.

oh yea!!! AFE ss is in, AEM CAI is cleaned, SSV cleaned, racing beat oil cooler screens in. ready to roll.

I was installing mine this morning as well. I had to shorten my plastic rod down quite a bit, and then I was able to put 2 of the bolts in the plate on the tower and it came off. Those metal pins were not easy to take off...mine were almost fused into place!

It would have been nice to read this DIY as I was doing my install. Aw well, I got mine in in the same fashion Paimon did. I have pictures as well, but his are better.

When you guys said grease the sphere, I just used automotive all purpose grease. Should be good right?


Things I noticed:

1) Solid shifting for sure. Somewhat of a click when it goes into gear.
2) Lots of noise coming up into the shifter? Almost like whining, and only really happens when I am holding the shifter, or pushing a little hard into gear (holding it into gear). Is this normal? It sounds odd, almost abnormal. Is this due to something I may have done wrong?
3) The up/down motion for it to go into reverse doesn't seem to be broken in maybe? Sometimes will stay down, but it's getting slightly better I guess.

Overall, I am really liking the feel, but the noise I mentioned in #2 is bringing it down for me, only a bit. It sounds like something is not right? Any thoughts?

Also quick question on the High Temp RTV...

I noticed when I took off the tower, there was silicone all around it, so I did the same with the tranny to spacer, and spacer to tower. All the way around (thinly applied). Is this not good?

Looks like Paimon only did a small section?

All purpose grease should be fine. As far as #2 goes, I believe that this is due to the materials used. I am taking a guess here, but it seems that the OEM shifter is using softer metals in order to reduce noise. This is why the AFE shifter feels so much more solid.

#3 sounds suspect. Mine is working just fine. That part of the shifter is spring loaded, maybe it needs to be greased up?

The thing with RTV is that it spreads really easily. A small dab will spread out quite a lot once there is pressure on it. Actually, if you look at some of my pics, you can see some of the RTV coming out near the top.

On the sticking down: there is only .001 clearance between the two shafts, that doesn't leave alot for tolorance. There will be tight ones once here or there, let it break in. If it doesn't free up just send it back and get it echanged for another one.
There shouldn't be noise that's objectional. That might clear up also, it may even be the same thing.
RTV, we put a really small bead say 1/8 inch max all the way around. You can't hurt the gearbox with it but it's not good practice to use it eccesive. It will form a bead inside sometime and say in an engine when it falls off it can and will go in the oil pump.
For the same reason you shouldn't use teflon tape on fuel systems, use teflon paste.
All purpose grease is fine, we use a wheel bearing grase made for boat trailers.
I need to hear all these little things so we can fix what we can.
No amount of testing will tell all the stuff that will show up with use.
Use a vicegrip to take out the pins by twisting them around.

I went back in, verified that the plastic shifter cutout plate was aligned properly (I don't think it was). I also cleaned up some of the grease in the grooves on the sphere, and verified my high temp RTV seal. All looks good now. I think the up/down movement is better, and I think it needs some time to break in (very short while).

Also, does it really matter where the white block sits on the shifter? I believe it has some play to move, and that may cause dampening or resistance based on position.

I don't know if it is just me, but my car came with that recycled stuff to go around the shifter between the shifter and the boot. Do you guys have this? If so, do you leave it on?


I'll keep you all posted.

That is a good question actually. I wouldn't think it would matter, i believe that is just there for rubber shift boot to seal off the tranny tunnel from the cabin...could be wrong.

I have the same stuff, it is just there to make the shift boot more "padded" and not flimsy. Also does some heat insulation from the transmission. You can leave it in or remove it, personal preference. I left mine in when i changed my shift boot from oem to a leather one.

Richard;

Day 2 of use and absolutely loving it. So far so good. I was thinking, what are the chances that the noise during shifting is the plastic piece that sits above the pivot sphere? The OEM one clips into the shift gate. I am wondering if there is some play in that plastic and it is maybe moving around during a shift? Purely guessing here.

https://www.rx8club.com/attachment.p...1&d=1335033378

Again, this is just a "random ideas" and has NO EFFECT on function. And for those wondering about the noises that me and a previous poster are talking about, it really is a small noise that you would only really notice if you are sitting and listening for it. I had my gf in the car and she had no idea what i was talking about until i really made her listen lol.

While it is true that white plastic sleeve is onlt there for something for the boot to seal on moving it up or down could have an effect. I did an Mx-5 here the other day and we fitted the sleeve to the boot and let it float on the stick.
The other thing I forgot was to ask was if you're running the stock shift knob. Aftermarket metal knobs have given problems in the past.
The S2000 has lots of vibration problems and guys tune it out with all sorts of methods. Rotorys shouldn't have that problem.

I do have an aftermarket shift knob, I still have the OEM one so I will put it on just to give you some feedback. I will also mess with the sleeve a bit. Again I want to drill in that this is only a "nitpick" on my part, and that is only to help you field these questions if you get them in the future.

I don't know about nitpicking here, but mine is really loud, especially when RPM's are > 2000. If I were to rest my hand on the shifter, or if I climb the RPM's in gear, it's like I can hear this Whinning and vibration from the tranny resonating through the shifter and into the cabin. It is not normal. It happens a lot more and louder when I am holding or pushing on the shifter. It isn't as bad in 4th/5th/6th. But 1,2,3 are really crazy. I had people in the car, and they think something is really wrong with it. If I put the radio on a bit, it can drown out the noise, but it is still there. I'll see if I can get in on video.

I do have an aftermarket shiftknob, the M1 Abrahms from TWM Motorsports (http://www.twmshiftknobs.com/shiftkn...hiftknobs.html). I'll try the standard shift knob and report back.

Paimon, when you say noise when shifting into gear, is that all you mean? Or is there noise while in gear, or when you rest your hand on the shifter? We have very similar setups, that's why I want to compare.



On a positive note, shifting is AMAZING. I mean the 1st to 2nd and the 2nd to third is really quick. I think there is a major improvement over stock. At least for me, I feel like I do those shifts twice as fast now. The feel is great! Solid shifting and excellent control. The throw seems to be shortened just like Paimon said, I am not sure by how much, but it's way better now. The shifter does sit higher, and I'll post pictures for comparison when I get a chance today or tomorrow.

I see what you are saying now. I really took a listen today because I did some significant highway driving / traffic / street on my way to work. There is a bit of a whine, more pronounced when shifting. The whining sounds like it could actually be vibration coming from the small clearances that RP mentioned. I wouldn't really say something is "wrong with it" as there really isn't much to the shifter, it just comes down to finding where the whining is coming from and maybe adding an insulator of some sort (grease even). I will grab a video on my way home today.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=726SNMz46TQ

let me know if that video works, I am at work and they block youtube.

http://youtu.be/X5vaqLypjhc

another

Well, during lunch I switched back to the OEM shifter knob to see if it makes any difference, and it didn't. Here is a video of the noise I am talking about (in addition to Paimon's noise)---I know the video is shaky, I don't care lol. I'm trying to capture the sound.

http://youtu.be/SufgXXOkdOY

I did ask around, and it is common to have this noise apparently. A coworker with a GTO said his sounds very similar, and that's a compromise you make for solid shifting and great feel (loosing comfort and noise reduction).

I'll take another video soon of the shifting with the M1 Abrams!

But I have to emphasize, this shifter makes the gear changes so much better, and makes it quick enough to keep the revs high enough to make for a really nice bursty upshift.

Adambomb, did this sudden loud sound at the upper end of your RPM range only start happening once you changed to the short shifter and now its still there after going back to the OEM shifter? Can you tell me what the rpm range where the loud sound comes in? The video sound is obviously not spectacular but it kind of sounds like something I've been chasing for a long while which almost sounds like your sound at the higher RPM range. Mine comes on at 5500rpm but has a little more of a rattle attached to it. I doubt its the same issue and I have questioned that maybe its my transmission.....but I feel no power obstructions whatsoever and the car revs freely....

By the way, your unusual sound seems quite different than the other video posted earlier. Maybe its just the mic used in each camera.

surely a different mic, his sound is actually more up close to the shaft than mine. When he puts his hand on the shifter mine makes that sound too. I figure it has to do with the materials used. Like i said, this shifter is made of harder metals than oem.

I have to say a+ to the shipping and a+ to the DIY!!!

I wish I wasnt in the middle of a engine swap to go play with it.

I did notice a little bit of vertical play once installed 1/8" maybe. not sure if this effects performance but over all it feels awesome!

It's a little to soon to tell on this, we'll get more feedback.
I did a Miata this weekend and he got to me today with the same problem. I had him try the stock knob and it cleared right up.
I think that worked on an Rx8 also.
The vertical play is something I'm working on. I don't think that is related but who knows. (BTW it should be about .050.) The more you guys tell me the better I can build them. Just one more thing, whatever sound is coming from the trans gets better leverage against the shaft. This means it will transfer that much easier. It's just a tuning fork.

That whining is extremely profound when I touch the shifter. It is there, but I was trying to show worst case and get it on camera. I was only at about 5~6k rpm I believe, not that high. The noise is there all the time, just more at higher RPM's. I did notice that 1st, 2nd, 3rd, are the worst, where it isn't as bad in 4th, 5th, 6th, but is still there.

The noise was not there before the short shifter install. Changing to the OEM knob, or my M1 Abrams made no difference.

Hi folks, I'm the mx-5 that was there this weekend, or.... the mx-5 was mine... whatever.:mdrmed:
To illustrate what RP said earlier about the bushing, I sorta jammed it into the top of the upper boot to minimize the up and down movement of it on the shifter.

Attachment 234350

It was a tight fit, but it does fit.

And yes I initially heard a little chatter, and when I replaced the lightweight aftermarket shift knob with a stock one, the noise disappeared.

ps, I'm jealous. Your center console is so much easier to remove than mine is!

The noise can be ignored or muffled if you open your windows, or with the radio on.

I am thinking about going back in and sealing (with some adhesive) that inner boot that seals the console to the frame (exposing the transmission and ground to the shift area). Doubtfully it will do anything, but it won't be hard to do.

What do you mean you jammed the bushing upwards? With what exactly? Did it help with the chatter, or just the feel?

That is a main concern of mine. I was considering this shifter but im really not a fan of short stubby shifters. However I want the feel of a short throw.

Yours appears to have a bit of stubbyness to it now. I feel that its may be just my eyes playing tricks on me though due to your shift knob. Will it still work with the oem shift knob?

If you don't mind so much Paimon, could you please post a pic with the stock shift knob on to compare. No hurry. When you get time.

If you look in the picture in my last post, you can see that the white bushing is in the hole of the top shift boot. It's a very right fit, so I jammed/shoved/pushed/wedged/manhandled the bushing into the hole so it wouldn't slide up or down the shiter shaft. I don't know that it would help with chatter or not, as I didn't drive it before I did that.

Sure thing, and yea mine looks short because of the knob. You can compare the first and last pic of my DIY to see what i mean. The knob screws in very far so it gives the appearance the shifter was shortened. I will get a pic when i get home and find my oem knob ;)

I did the same thing in my install. I even moved that bushing all the way down, all the way up, no change in sound.

So it has been a few weeks since I reported anything, just wanted to say that my noise is pretty much gone! Must have been some clearances that worked them selves out over time.

Just ordered my AF SS for a 2005. Is this install the same for the 05? What about the noise? Anyone figure out a way to reduce it?