hawk ceremics thats intended for street use.. crazy *** braking compare to oem.

 

Anyone here of Centric Posi Quiets?

I have seens posts on M5 and M3 forums and those guys seem to like them.

 

Normal driving you don't need anything more than OEMs. However, if you drive a bit more performance oriented, there are definitely more aggressive pads out there that might suit you better.

 

Were they bedded in? The Hawk HPS pads I have are definitely not inferior to OEM.

 

sorry didn't feel like reading everyone's post, but i have seido-ya brakes. don't think i'm a big baller or anything i just wanted them saved and just bought them. i like them a lot actually.

 

you know what i find funny about this thread, so much is said without saying much.

Plain & Simple:
i plan to boost to about 300rwhp....... i want the car to feel like its stopping on a dime like my old brembos are... despite the quick acceleration and hard turning but i want to have to look into better tyres when i'm done

WHICH PADS WILL ACCOMPLISH THIS ON THE STOCK CALIPER.

There, no way to beat around the bush with that.

 

like ya.

r compounds and all the rules change...

beers

 

my hawk ceramics don't have as good initial bite as OEM, for what it's worth. they do work well past the initial bite though (as good as OEM it seems). though some people like less initial bite because they can modulate the brake easier.

 

Yeah, we bedded them in twice and the rotors were turned, so there was no prior transfer film on it. It's like the initial bite and such are alright but the deeper you get into the pedal, it just doesn't want to brake that much more.

 

I heard the Mazdaspeed pads are more aggressive than OEM (as far as bite goes).

 

Weird. I really don't have anything that I can figure out off the top of my head. I've used my brakes a bit and can tell you that if I really stomped on them the ABS seems to engage a bit sooner and the bite seems slightly more aggressive than OEM all the way through.

 

So after having lived with the HPS for awhile, I can say that I believe their initial bite to actually be inferior to the OEM. They're more temperature stable, though they need a bit more heat to work well while the OEMs are good from nothing. In summary, they're only superior to the OEM in terms of resistance to fade. In terms of bite, especially when cold, I think they're inferior.

 

Now go get some Cobalt Friction GT Sports and tell us what you learn. Drive them on and off track like I did for 18 months. No problems, hot or cold and a great bite right out of the box you'll appreciate after the Hawks, believe me.

 

Believe me, I'm tempted. However, I might just upgrade the entire braking system in the next six months and so am holding off on getting new pads that I'll end up throwing out anyway.

 

Of course that's always a fun project and a great way to spend money (and you do get some great visual payback in the looks dept!), but I've yet to see any BB upgrade that actually functionally surpasses good pads and some mild enhancements like 2 piece rotors, perhaps some cooling ducts. Make sure you resurrect the thread again and let us know how it works out

 

I'm doing it for the weight savings as well. My target is to get my braking system upgraded to the point where I can drive a specific mountain road with full confidence downhill. Think straights leading into incredibly tight hairpins at a steep grade.

 

I've ran the Cobalt Friction GT Sports on Mont Tremblant for two track days and there was zero fade with the stock braking system (+ SS brake lines and Motul RBF 600 brake fluid). Literally, I didn't notice the brake pedal going away at all. And there was some good braking on that track!

All I'm saying is try a pad compound other than HPS, put in fresh good brake fluid, like ATE SuperBlue or Motul RBF 600 and then see if you still feel the same way after that mountain road.

Warning though, those Cobalt Friction GT Sport dust like a ****. I left the dust too long (three weeks) on my wheels and it was impossible to remove from some parts of them. Nasty stuff, though not as nasty as some of the carbotechs (which come with a disclaimer where they are not responsible for your paint).

 

Same here, me likey too

 

So, ummm.....maybe this is a dumb question, but if I am going to replace with OEM brakes, can they be purchased anywhere other than the dealer?

And how much does a Mazda dealer typically charge for an RX8 brake job?

 

finishlinepreformance.com. and onlinemazdaparts.com..

and really it is a diy job. but the rears are a bit harder..

check the diy section..

but i would think about the hawk ceramics. the dust little have great stopping power.. a bit more money but not that much..

i would pm charles hill and fluidmotorsport.. see what you can find..

or pm me if you need more info.


beers

 

my dealer sucks..my pads were redone twice! and they still squeak! edit(answering to be named later)

 

did you read the op. or anything else in this tread?

wow, just wow.

maybe start a thread about my brakes suck and my dealership sucks. and i dont know how to anything about it.. i would suggest the lounge.. it might last there..

just an idea.

beers

 

^lol..nice avatar, you should start a thread on which avatar you will jack next maybe?

 

really,

that one was given to me.. and Easy E1 is mentioned just below it..

go figure..

maybe you could read. btw,

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-trouble-shooting-95/suspension-squeak-161529/

you have to be kidding me..

me starting a thread on stealing an avatar would be better than that lame post..

really. something is loose. not that you would know how to look or tighten it up if you found the easy button..

btw, if you oem brakes squeal.. it is that you dont drive them hard enough.. search bedding brakes. really it is important.. that is a huge hint..

beers

 

LOL..its fun messing with you swoopy..the dealer told me something could be loose? ****, i say what the "professionals" tell me..haha