Spring install quick question
#1
Spring install quick question
Im attempting my first spring install in around 7 hours and hopefully i can get a response to my question before i start my rears.
Im following Robin Yang's guide
(Front)http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...ock_front.html
(Rear)http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...hock_rear.html
the fronts look easy
the rears im a little worried about, there is a step where i need to
"Use a sharpie or other implement to mark the location of the alignment cam (the flat washer with marks on it circled in red) relative to the bracket. When reassembling this part you want to line these marks back up."
Can anyone give me a greater clarification on what and where to mark? (dumbed down version, because i apparently cant comprehend this lol)
ALSO... my garage isnt level, will this mess anything up when re-installing the shocks/springs??
I cant do it on my driveway because i have pebbles and the car starts to roll/start moving.
Im following Robin Yang's guide
(Front)http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...ock_front.html
(Rear)http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...hock_rear.html
the fronts look easy
the rears im a little worried about, there is a step where i need to
"Use a sharpie or other implement to mark the location of the alignment cam (the flat washer with marks on it circled in red) relative to the bracket. When reassembling this part you want to line these marks back up."
Can anyone give me a greater clarification on what and where to mark? (dumbed down version, because i apparently cant comprehend this lol)
ALSO... my garage isnt level, will this mess anything up when re-installing the shocks/springs??
I cant do it on my driveway because i have pebbles and the car starts to roll/start moving.
Last edited by EricB; 05-07-2012 at 04:18 AM.
#3
I installed my coilovers on a slanted driveway... doesn't really make any difference as long as its secure on jack stands. just make sure you preload front/rear before tightening the upper bolts.
#4
Voids warranties
If you disconnect it at the other end where the ball joint is, there is no need to mess up alignment cams. That being said, if the car is lower when you are done, you need an alignment anyway. The sharpie marks will mean nothing in the end.
#6
thats a good point... thanks for the info.
One more question regarding the install..
" Compress the spring, place it over your new shock and assemble the shock tower on your new shock. Going from left to right in this photo, you have a rubber bump stop, flat washer, and metal collar with one black rubber part. Note it tapers towards the shock tower. The shock tower then goes over all this and then another black rubber part (again tapering towards the shock tower), flat washer and lock nut. Use an impact wrench to tighten the lock nut to the same depth measured in Step 17."
is he saying that the spring goes on and then the yellow rubber thing goes on,followed by the washer and black rubber thing and then that nut... and then that black piece on the top of the photo and then the black rubber and then the washer followed by the nut to secure it all in place?
ALSO
since my garage isnt level im not going to balance the car on one jack stand, so is placing the jack stands a little further in than where the scissor jack goes OK? on both sides of course.
Im wondering if its worth the $50 dollars to rent the spring compressor today, and maybe another $50 tomorrow to do the rears or just pay my mechanic ~200 to do it.
do you guys believe in me?
One more question regarding the install..
" Compress the spring, place it over your new shock and assemble the shock tower on your new shock. Going from left to right in this photo, you have a rubber bump stop, flat washer, and metal collar with one black rubber part. Note it tapers towards the shock tower. The shock tower then goes over all this and then another black rubber part (again tapering towards the shock tower), flat washer and lock nut. Use an impact wrench to tighten the lock nut to the same depth measured in Step 17."
is he saying that the spring goes on and then the yellow rubber thing goes on,followed by the washer and black rubber thing and then that nut... and then that black piece on the top of the photo and then the black rubber and then the washer followed by the nut to secure it all in place?
ALSO
since my garage isnt level im not going to balance the car on one jack stand, so is placing the jack stands a little further in than where the scissor jack goes OK? on both sides of course.
Im wondering if its worth the $50 dollars to rent the spring compressor today, and maybe another $50 tomorrow to do the rears or just pay my mechanic ~200 to do it.
do you guys believe in me?
#7
I think you described it correctly. Once you put the spring on, you put the black housing in the picture on top, then the bushing, washer, and nut on the very top. Just look at it when you take it apart. Assembly is reverse of disassembly.
I jack from the diff and use the jack points for my jackstands.
I jack from the diff and use the jack points for my jackstands.
#8
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and yea i believe you can do it.
#10
Voids warranties
when i've barrowed tools from the auto parts stores i didnt have to pay a rental fee, just put a deposit so i would return it. returned the tool got my deposit not charged to the credit card, no money lost. you may want to check that its gunna actually cost you 50 bucks a day for that.
and yea i believe you can do it.
and yea i believe you can do it.
#11
update:
took both fronts off, only took 3 hours (no air tools, just socket wrench). only snapped one bolt holding the driver side strut bar in the engine bay, i think its fine.
didnt take many pics, but enjoy my super awesome invisible racing coilovers
Im probably going to let my mechanic do the rears, my friend who was helping me said he had nightmares after doing the rear. Its only about $100.
helping him put his obx test pipe on and im snagging his gutted cat for $40 so we can both shoot flames for the grandam race this saturday.
thanks everyone for the help.
took both fronts off, only took 3 hours (no air tools, just socket wrench). only snapped one bolt holding the driver side strut bar in the engine bay, i think its fine.
didnt take many pics, but enjoy my super awesome invisible racing coilovers
Im probably going to let my mechanic do the rears, my friend who was helping me said he had nightmares after doing the rear. Its only about $100.
helping him put his obx test pipe on and im snagging his gutted cat for $40 so we can both shoot flames for the grandam race this saturday.
thanks everyone for the help.
Last edited by EricB; 05-08-2012 at 01:33 AM.
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