I have HAD (human aided design) special spatial concepts. I can analyze geometry by visualization.

Post up a pic, and I'll run the geometry for ya.

 

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.php?p=3776635 hehe actually i posed this a while ago and you answered in it lol. In the pic my car is lifted on stands.

 

Hrm....the only comment I will say from an engineer's perspective is if the silver adapter's purpose is a female threaded piece to join the top and bottom then the thread engagement for both ends is too small for that size of a diameter and is most likely below an acceptable safety factor.

Kudos for doing your own, but I would lengthen the female adapter more for better effective thread engagement (that is if I presumed your design correctly).

 

Yeah, with HAD I gave up attention span, and short term memory.

If you shorten endlink some more, and put in holes farther from the tip of swaybar, you'll feel more bar in the back.

 

Vlage,
The silver adapter has pins.

I would never use such a shade tree mod on something like a steering endlink, but on a sway bar, even if it breaks loose, I'll end up with what some guys do on the track already: no bar.

 

I'll tinker a bit when i get home from work, this time i will make sure the car is on the ground :-p. Thanks for the tips

 

I comprehend the theory to have the bar in a horizontal position, but, can you explain to me how, just by shortening the end links or by relocating the lower mount ,does this make the bar stiffer ? Sure , if you move the mounting point on the bar , as in farther from the end it would, but in the same location the bar would perform as it would if the links were longer or shorter.

 

As I said, it seems that the sway bar end is curved so as the rear hunkers down on a bump the sway bar rotates on its attachment point without transfering force to the other side.

All I can say is try the mod, and tell me what you think.

I mean if you think its royally screwed after you do the mod, you can buy new endlinks for almost nothing compared to swapping swaybars, spring, and shocks.

 

I assume that it has to do with the angle of forces on the bar.

 

Im not pissing on your party, but every action has an equal opposite reaction,so if there is force on the left side of the bar, there is also force on the opposite side. Kudos for trying something different.

 

I can loosen a bolt with a wrench at a funny angle, too, but when you loosen a tight lug nut don't you have to make sure you push at exactly 90degrees to break it loose?

 

So would you say this is a better angle for the endlinks?









FYI car is on the ground and the endlinks were attached and tighteneed with the car on the ground

 

Ok, I had to go fuel my HAD, so now I'll turn it on.

I see you've tried two different settings on your new thick, stiff bar.

The longest setting seems to be about 70-80degrees from endlink to bar.

The shortest setting seems to be about 50-60 degrees from endlink to bar.

Remember, that the endlink doesn't push so much as pull up the wheel it's attached to, so I think that the angle of either of these settings approximate a stock bar and endlink, but should feel stiffer and maybe equal to each other.

To get more out of this new bar, your endlinks should be at least 1inch shorter, but you might find the new bar too tight if you do that.

That's why I like my stock yellow bar with the endlinks short and working.

I don't think I can stand any more stiffness with my stock bar, but I can tighten more by polyurethane bushing if I want to.

 

Interesting, so since I dont have shorter endlinks (and the ones i have are at their shortest setting) would you say I am better off using the setting i show in that picture, or should i be using the other one ? I dont mind the stiffness since I am not really tracking my car yet, i just want to make sure that the end is not putting any extra stress on anything due to poor angles.

 

Ok, now see you're asking very good questions, and I didn't really answer that right.

Use the first longest setting that looks like 70 - 80 degrees, because it gives more travel when the whole rear end goes down with a hard bump.

The second short setting with 50-60 deg is already close to binding.

Binding can cause bending when the rear bottoms out equally on both sides. Look up pics here of bent endlinks.

 

Dammit lol, I just moved it from the soft position to the hard this morning

edit:

wait hold on.... i think I am getting confused here. Wouldn't my chances of bending the endlinks be less with the setting i am showing above? Since the endlink is closer to perpendicular to the ground (lets say 75 degrees from ground) ... If i put on full soft, i need to rotate my endlinks out to get it in the hole, which puts it closer to a 45 degree angle from the ground.

http://www.cobbtuning.com/products/?id=2940 Here's what i was reading.

Using this image



using the setting that i show above (which is what i have now), my endlink angle looks like "medium". If i go back to soft, then my angle looks like the "hard setting" pic

 

HA! I love geometry.

Ok, the medium pic above is about 110-120degrees.

Notice in their thread they are trying to guide you to get it 90degrees like I am.

Their pic won't bind because it's the opposite of rx8 endlink, and might straighten up to 90 degrees, not bind up with less degrees.

The last setting on the firm or shortest setting is about 50-60 degrees in your pic which is about what I had stock.

I'd just leave it where you have it until you can decide if you need more stiffness in the back, then I'd shorten slightly to make 90 degrees.

The whole deal with my mod was to get whatever bar you have to work better which is 90 degree angle.

If the car bottoms really hard, it can push the stock bar and endlink attachment point forward enough to lock with 180 degrees while bar is pulling backwards causing the bending of stock endlinks seen in some pics.

The only other explanation would be that endlink tips over near the shock as it goes down, and spring hammers it.

Either way, shortening stock endlinks stops all that drama.

 

Here's stock bar and endlink pic which is close to your angle.

 

Thats actually what my stock endlink used to look like before i got the new endlinks and new bar. I would say that currently my endlink is a bit more vertical than that one though.

 

Ok, I just chewed off a piece of caffiene tab, and jolted my HAD awake!

I analyzed your previous pics, and you are on the best setting now.

The angle is not perfect, but it straightens the endlink up some, and takes maybe an inch out of the system.

You can get even more stiffness out of that bar by taking a inch out of the endlink.

But you'll probably not want that handfull.