Phantom Menace

Does anyone have these rotors, from the RX7 store? If so, can someone, please, post a pic so I can see what way the slots go? Initially, the guys at the RX7Store told me that the slots should point towards the front. Then, I called back, like the pest that I am, to verify which way they are supposed to "point" and another guy told me that they are supposed to point to the rear?

This can be confusing as, "which way do the slots point?" That is, do they point from the inside of the rotor outwards, or from the outside of the rotor towards the lug nuts? I think I may have mine on backwards...Can someone please show some love for this?

I've seen them on different cars, both ways so I'm not sure if there is a generic rule or if each application is specific. I've seen Brembo BBKs with the slots the same way as mine and I've seen them going the other way as well. I'm so confused...

Thanks in advance.

BTW, here's a pic of my Left/Front brake rotor:

Phantom Menace

Bump...

belkjz

i had the same rotors on my car. you have yours on the correct way. i actually had mine on backwards. the way to tell is the vents on the inside should be curved to scoop air when rotating forward.

mysql101

I say this is a bogus thread, he's just showing off his wheels.

Damn it man. Now I want to upgrade, but my rotors aren't worn out yet.

Phantom Menace

Mysql101,

LOL! I wish brother Turbo! If that were the case, I'd have waited to drop the car some before showing my unsightly wheel/fender gap. But, unfortunatley, I am in need of your help? Are they on right? I keep hearing it both ways and it's killing me. I keep thinking that if it is wrong, I may be loosing precious grip or performance. Then again, if I reverse them and they are on right--I may doubly screw myself over...Help me? Please...Help me? (sounding like the Brendel-Fly)

edit: My old rotors only had 1,700 miles on them. Just change 'em anyways if you want to. You can always keep the stockers for later...

WantedTwo

iTrader: (4)

I HIGHLY recomend this, one of my rotors got a crack in it and had to swap back (ebay special)

swoope

iTrader: (5)

funny,

this was a recent call... the rx7 store rotors are supposed to angle to the back.

the opposite of your photo..

phantom whos your bitch..

beers

swoope

iTrader: (5)

found it.

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-wheels-tires-brakes-suspension-55/brake-upgrade-done-105423/

beers

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

I was ggoing to say that the angle should be towards the rear or trailing when installed corrctly. Just look at a fan's blades and you will get the idea.
They look good PM. Even if they are backwards.
And if the interior rotor vanes are curved (which I doubt) they would be going the same direction as the slots.

Phantom Menace

Again, thanks you guys. Guys like you make things like this seem far less challenging and difficult. With the help of 4yearstosupercharge and Swoope I was able to check the internal vanes for curvature. Turns out, they are straight and according to Brembo--who does not make this rotor but is considered an authority on braking--when the vanes are straight or "pillared" it does not matter what direction they run. Direciton is only important when the internal vanes are curved. In cases of curved vanes, the "blades" should sweep backwards! That is, from the lug nuts to the outter edge of the rotor, they should progress rearward as to let hot gases escape and not to "scoop" in air.

So--*sigh of relief*--though these rotors are "recommended" to run rearwards, the straight internal vanes operate efficiently either way. As for the external slots and holes, I believe this is arbitrary as Brembo, Endless Rotories, and several other brake manufactures design them to "point" forward. That is, from the inside of the rotor to the outside, the slots should point to the front of the car. Other, just as accredited manufacturers of brakes prefer to run the slots and holes rearward.

Once, again--thank you, guys. Not having many tools and equipment, nor a bursting pocket book for that matter, you guys saved me $85.00 an axel to have my rotors and pads switched! You guys are tops!

dillsrotary

wheels look good phantom, is that the dark chrome you were aiming for?

Phantom Menace

Thanks Dill,
Yeah--they're the OEM dark chromes I was asking you guys about not too long ago. I wanted to keep the look of the OEMs but wanted a little something extra...I posted another thread on here about how Midas gashed two of them up pretty badly. I'm in the process of having those replaced, however...thus far, I've been having some bad luck in my mods...

Easy_E1,
Who's that in your avitar? Can you post a bigger, high-res pic, though?

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

Glad to help Phantom Menace.

I don't see a problem with the slots going outside in but the vane direction if they are curved would decide the direction.

Now I know what to look for when I change my brake rotors if I go with the vented style.

Those that say there is a noticable difference, do the brakes have to be pushed hard to notice it?

What is the best corrosion inhibitor for rotors (particularly for the rear hub)?

swoope

iTrader: (5)

hey,

did you ever figure out your shock alarm?

beers

Phantom Menace

Swoope,
LOL! No. I'm afraid to start snipping wires. I was hoping someone would figure it out. Why, did you find something? If not, no biggie--I'm thinking I just may sell it or something. No one in my area really pays much attention to alarms anyways. I'd rather just put in a remote pager system or something...

swoope

iTrader: (5)

no,

it is one of the area i am sure i know little about.... were the instructions not good?

beers

swoope

iTrader: (5)

the reason i ask is i had to find instructions for my ms rear..

and stumbled across this....

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...Sensor_Kit.pdf

beers

Phantom Menace

Zinc is one of the best corrosion inhibitors. In the Navy, we used to bolt Zinc plates to the bottom of hulls, etc. as a corrosion deterrent. Magnesium makes a great deterrent also, but if it ever gets hot enough to combust--you'll have a fire that'll burn for days and will be hot enough to melt concrete!

As for the "difference" in feel, etc. Honestly--the best single upgrade to brakes I've come to realize is not the rotors but pads! I've got the Hawk Street pads and they make a good difference. Next up, would be SS lines. They make the pedal feel a bit firmer. For example, at stops--before my pedal would sink a good 1-1.5" after a few moments. That was due to the rubber hose expanding. Now the pedal remains for however long I've got it pressed down.

Breaking is not "night and day," however. They just make minute differences on the street. While "bedding" by pads to the rotors, I have noticed that from 60-0mph (hard braking) the pads/rotors/SS lines do stop me significantly shorter. But the ABS keeps it from biting hard. So, is does let it "slip and go" but that's the ABS.

Phantom Menace

Well they were not "terrible." But they certainly were not good. First off, they draw a jumble of wires and tell you to find the "red/blue" one, for example. Sometimes there are 4-5 different red/blue wires in 4-5 different main "packages" of wires. Then they tell you, if you use the wrong wire--you'll damage the unit?! WTF? They don't even draw the wires individually--it looks like a ball of hair in the pics.

One DIY on here was good, but it did not include the "new brown diaode" upgrade Mazda put in to "solve" the interior dome light issues some were dealing with....

Yup, that's the instructions it came with. Notice how the wires just seem to come out of "nowhere" and you're supposed to instinctively know which to cut and tap into. Also, the drawings of the pin-plugs do not look like what's on my car. Furthermore, how can you tell a 14 pin connector? Is it the "pins" inside the block or the number of wires going in? Some have 14pins but only a few wires. This leads me to believe that only 4 pins are being used, no? **** man, it's worse than disarming a friggin' mine! I don't want to cut and later realize--whoops, that was my airbag wires...

BoosTED

iTrader: (2)

Airbag wires should be wrapped in yellow sheathing.