Racing Brake Big Brake/Lightweight Rotors Reviewed.
05-29-2009, 08:51 AM
#51
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Is it rubbing the bottom of the dust shield, in front of the ball joint? Team hammered his down according to the RB forum. I did the same last night and it didn't seem to rub. But I didn't try to spin the rotor with the steering wheels turn 45 degrees. Let me know what you find out.
Also, I thought I bled the fluids correctly, but seems there's still air. I didn't bleed the second valve on the front calipers, so I'm guessing that is the culprit.
Also, I thought I bled the fluids correctly, but seems there's still air. I didn't bleed the second valve on the front calipers, so I'm guessing that is the culprit.
05-29-2009, 11:29 AM
#53
Is it rubbing the bottom of the dust shield, in front of the ball joint? Team hammered his down according to the RB forum. I did the same last night and it didn't seem to rub. But I didn't try to spin the rotor with the steering wheels turn 45 degrees. Let me know what you find out.
Also, I thought I bled the fluids correctly, but seems there's still air. I didn't bleed the second valve on the front calipers, so I'm guessing that is the culprit.
Also, I thought I bled the fluids correctly, but seems there's still air. I didn't bleed the second valve on the front calipers, so I'm guessing that is the culprit.
It seems under heavy cornering there is more flex than I had anticpated I would make sure everything is torqued to spec.
I am thinking that retaining and cutting the shield would be beneficial for that extra bit of space needed.
Racing Brake has provided me the standard Offset rotor hats so let me know if you have any issues.
Was it a full system drain?
I actually talked to some of the mazda techs and they instructed me on how to bleed the ABS pump to get the last of the Air that might be in there.
I will forward it to Justin so he can add it the Brake FAQ, as it seems there has not been anyone that has really bled the ABS pump with a full system drain.
05-29-2009, 11:43 AM
#55
05-29-2009, 11:58 AM
#56
the abs/dcs unit was the only thing i could think of with air trapped in it. if that is the case, you need to activate the valves in the unit to 'push' out the trapped air pockets then re-bleed. i'm surprised my vacuum bleeder didn't get it out...
not sure how it works on the RX8, someone care to enlighten?
not sure how it works on the RX8, someone care to enlighten?
05-29-2009, 12:09 PM
#57
the abs/dcs unit was the only thing i could think of with air trapped in it. if that is the case, you need to activate the valves in the unit to 'push' out the trapped air pockets then re-bleed. i'm surprised my vacuum bleeder didn't get it out...
not sure how it works on the RX8, someone care to enlighten?
not sure how it works on the RX8, someone care to enlighten?
I have been doing a tremendous amount of research, trying to figure out why my pedal went soft we did everything under the sun, Gravity bleed vacuum bleed, and I mean repeatedly.
What I did was I bled the complete system out, so there are still air pockets left in the abs pump.
Reading online on other forums there is a scanner you can buy to cycle the abs pump and it will release the air out of the abs pump. The scanner costs upwards of $200...very expensive...
So I went to the local dealership and was talking to some of the master technicians I know over there and this is what they informed me as a cheaper more effective way:
The 4 Hard lines that go from the ABS pump are to be loosened each individually to let the air creep out when the system is under pressure (holding the brake pedal down).
That was the only information they have provided me and I have yet to try it out myself because I need another person.
After bleeding the ABS you would need to rebleed the whole system.
05-29-2009, 12:29 PM
#61
you could definately do it while the car is running, but doesn't necessarily mean you're gonna get anything to come out of the abs pump. you have to somehow activate it while bleeding it.
you could...
1. have the car on the lift with it running
2. using a vacuum bleeder with a constant reservoir filling the master cylinder
3. start bleeding each axle while you have it in gear with the rear wheels spinning.
this SHOULD cause the DSC/ABS to activate since it sees the rear wheels spinning with no movement from the front wheels (simulate wheel slippage). you'll have all sorts of light on the instrument cluster tho...
you could...
1. have the car on the lift with it running
2. using a vacuum bleeder with a constant reservoir filling the master cylinder
3. start bleeding each axle while you have it in gear with the rear wheels spinning.
this SHOULD cause the DSC/ABS to activate since it sees the rear wheels spinning with no movement from the front wheels (simulate wheel slippage). you'll have all sorts of light on the instrument cluster tho...
05-29-2009, 12:36 PM
#64
you could definately do it while the car is running, but doesn't necessarily mean you're gonna get anything to come out of the abs pump. you have to somehow activate it while bleeding it.
you could...
1. have the car on the lift with it running
2. using a vacuum bleeder with a constant reservoir filling the master cylinder
3. start bleeding each axle while you have it in gear with the rear wheels spinning.
this SHOULD cause the DSC/ABS to activate since it sees the rear wheels spinning with no movement from the front wheels (simulate wheel slippage). you'll have all sorts of light on the instrument cluster tho...
you could...
1. have the car on the lift with it running
2. using a vacuum bleeder with a constant reservoir filling the master cylinder
3. start bleeding each axle while you have it in gear with the rear wheels spinning.
this SHOULD cause the DSC/ABS to activate since it sees the rear wheels spinning with no movement from the front wheels (simulate wheel slippage). you'll have all sorts of light on the instrument cluster tho...
05-29-2009, 12:50 PM
#65
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If I'm doing it the old school way, fully replacing the fluids by using a different color fluid, by bleeding the old one out and filling with new fluids, should I have issues?
05-29-2009, 01:49 PM
#68
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I dont understand why you guys have drained the system completely in the first place. you should have done one corner at a time with a simple gravity bleed before moving to the next corner. always keep the master resevoir full and do a normal bleed of the brakes once all 4 are mounted and gravity bled on their own. this way you never have air in the system to begin with. Im not saying this to be a dick, but maybe to help anyone that sees this thread before they try to install their own BBK.
so to review/clarify. you would
1)Remove old caliper, caliper braket, rotor. (leaving flex line attached to the old caliper for now. use a bungy cord to hang the caliper so as not to put stress on the flex line)
2)install new rotor, caliper braket, caliper.
3)unbolt flexline from old caliper and bolt it to the new caliper.
4)Open bleeder screw of new caliper and allow it to "gravity" bleed. once fluid comes out of its own will (or rather assisted by gravity) close the bleeder screw.
NOTE: Make sure the master cylinder resevoir is always full
5)Repeat steps 1 through 4 for each corner of the car.
6)proceed to bleed the brakes as you normally would.
Voila. was that so hard? you never have air entering the ABS pump. also, all this bleeding you will definitly have completed a full fluid flush by the time you are all said and done, so no worries there either.
so to review/clarify. you would
1)Remove old caliper, caliper braket, rotor. (leaving flex line attached to the old caliper for now. use a bungy cord to hang the caliper so as not to put stress on the flex line)
2)install new rotor, caliper braket, caliper.
3)unbolt flexline from old caliper and bolt it to the new caliper.
4)Open bleeder screw of new caliper and allow it to "gravity" bleed. once fluid comes out of its own will (or rather assisted by gravity) close the bleeder screw.
NOTE: Make sure the master cylinder resevoir is always full
5)Repeat steps 1 through 4 for each corner of the car.
6)proceed to bleed the brakes as you normally would.
Voila. was that so hard? you never have air entering the ABS pump. also, all this bleeding you will definitly have completed a full fluid flush by the time you are all said and done, so no worries there either.
Last edited by rotarygreg; 05-29-2009 at 01:57 PM.
05-29-2009, 02:08 PM
#69
whines all the way home
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wow did you even read this thread,,, yeah we did that and yeah you sound like a dick for not reading the thread..
And besides thats only half the issue,,, we still have knock happening somewhere near the ball joint....
And besides thats only half the issue,,, we still have knock happening somewhere near the ball joint....
Last edited by Rotr8; 05-29-2009 at 02:11 PM.
05-29-2009, 02:15 PM
#70
I dont understand why you guys have drained the system completely in the first place. you should have done one corner at a time with a simple gravity bleed before moving to the next corner. always keep the master resevoir full and do a normal bleed of the brakes once all 4 are mounted and gravity bled on their own. this way you never have air in the system to begin with. Im not saying this to be a dick, but maybe to help anyone that sees this thread before they try to install their own BBK.
so to review/clarify. you would
1)Remove old caliper, caliper braket, rotor. (leaving flex line attached to the old caliper for now. use a bungy cord to hang the caliper so as not to put stress on the flex line)
2)install new rotor, caliper braket, caliper.
3)unbolt flexline from old caliper and bolt it to the new caliper.
4)Open bleeder screw of new caliper and allow it to "gravity" bleed. once fluid comes out of its own will (or rather assisted by gravity) close the bleeder screw.
NOTE: Make sure the master cylinder resevoir is always full
5)Repeat steps 1 through 4 for each corner of the car.
6)proceed to bleed the brakes as you normally would.
Voila. was that so hard? you never have air entering the ABS pump. also, all this bleeding you will definitly have completed a full fluid flush by the time you are all said and done, so no worries there either.
so to review/clarify. you would
1)Remove old caliper, caliper braket, rotor. (leaving flex line attached to the old caliper for now. use a bungy cord to hang the caliper so as not to put stress on the flex line)
2)install new rotor, caliper braket, caliper.
3)unbolt flexline from old caliper and bolt it to the new caliper.
4)Open bleeder screw of new caliper and allow it to "gravity" bleed. once fluid comes out of its own will (or rather assisted by gravity) close the bleeder screw.
NOTE: Make sure the master cylinder resevoir is always full
5)Repeat steps 1 through 4 for each corner of the car.
6)proceed to bleed the brakes as you normally would.
Voila. was that so hard? you never have air entering the ABS pump. also, all this bleeding you will definitly have completed a full fluid flush by the time you are all said and done, so no worries there either.
05-29-2009, 02:39 PM
#71
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i thought i had read the hole thread and i just did a quick scan again...i fail to see any reason why there would be air in the ABS pump if you did do it just like i posted. what i meant by i dont mean to sound like a dick is because i know im not offering a solution to the problem you have now. it seems like some ARE trying to be dicks though. have a nice day 
05-29-2009, 03:38 PM
#72
whines all the way home
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yes, that is what we are trying to resolve here, obviously there should be no air trapped in the ABS, thank you for not contributing to a solution at all, have a nice day,,,
05-31-2009, 07:12 PM
#73
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SUCCESS! I must not have the same issues as you guys. It was as I suspected, the second bleed valve on each front RB calipers. I skipped the second valve on my initial round of bleeding because I assumed bleeding the first valve was sufficient. I re-bled everything today, and my pedal is super firm, very little travel.
Still have 2 issues to resolve. Still some noise when braking, even after breaking in the pads per the RB site instructions. As well as some contact/rattle with the brake shield when turning.
Still have 2 issues to resolve. Still some noise when braking, even after breaking in the pads per the RB site instructions. As well as some contact/rattle with the brake shield when turning.
05-31-2009, 07:58 PM
#74
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SUCCESS! I must not have the same issues as you guys. It was as I suspected, the second bleed valve on each front RB calipers. I skipped the second valve on my initial round of bleeding because I assumed bleeding the first valve was sufficient. I re-bled everything today, and my pedal is super firm, very little travel.
Still have 2 issues to resolve. Still some noise when braking, even after breaking in the pads per the RB site instructions. As well as some contact/rattle with the brake shield when turning.
Still have 2 issues to resolve. Still some noise when braking, even after breaking in the pads per the RB site instructions. As well as some contact/rattle with the brake shield when turning.
Is your noise almost sound as if a loose camping noise almost as if the pads float then only under light braking it seems to clunk into place??? thats what I get....
Also was doing some spirited driving today and I too get a shaving noise from the heat shield under sharp turning,,, I followed Team's pictures of where to clip the shield and where to pund back but I think it needs further consideration,,,,
Proggress though with the bleeding of the second valve of the fronts, I will order another bottle of RBF 600 just so I have enough I have one bottle left over...
05-31-2009, 08:13 PM
#75
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The first noise under braking sounds like a cicada insect, for lack of better description. Probably the pads not fully broken yet, although I did the 5 stops from 35 to 30, and 3 stops from 55-50.
The second noise, is definitely a metal rattle, I suspect it's the passenger side lower shield on the ball joint and/or rotor.
Just to clarify, bleeding was done manually, no speed bleeder or pressure bleeder of any sort. Good ole fashion rear to front. For the front RB calipers, I did the front valve and moved to the rear valve.
The second noise, is definitely a metal rattle, I suspect it's the passenger side lower shield on the ball joint and/or rotor.
Just to clarify, bleeding was done manually, no speed bleeder or pressure bleeder of any sort. Good ole fashion rear to front. For the front RB calipers, I did the front valve and moved to the rear valve.