^^^not at all - 21s, 20s, 19s, whatever suits your fancy - just get the right offset for your drop...BTW you must have some damn babys-bottom smooth roads out there to enjoy those razor thin sidewalls - and sadly with the 20s your rotors look positively miniscule - perhaps you'd been better of getting a BBK with really big rotor and calipers. That's one thing the 17s/18s do, they make your rotors look almost too big for the wheels...not the other way around.

 

my 18's still make my brakes look small. there's so much room behind the spokes its ridiculous.

 

^Well then suck it up and buy a BBK!

 

Update on these? I need to replace mine when I get back from Iraq. I put a bandaid on them to get the car back to MI before I deployed (turned the fronts with a set of cheap pads) The thickness is 1mm below what they should be, I took that chance but the car was going to sit for a year and only had a few miles put on it after I turned the rotors.

 

I got a set more then a year ago, talked to the guys and got an awesome deal on a full set w/ Hawk HPS's and have logged about 40k or so on them and they barely show any wear and with the coatings they don't rust up on you. I will reiterate as others have mentioned they do help with stopping power. These combined with the Hawk HPS pads can easily lock the wheels up even with the ABS.

 

That's not a good or safe thing. If you can lock your wheels with ABS activated, you've got some problems, as ABS is designed to keep that from happening regardless.

 

good that u got to that point before i made that out. and honestly, drilled rotors during normal street use should not easily crack before the minimum thickness for turning them, unless they are installed backwards. though some think its "cool" to face the slots a certain way... this impedes the normal air flow out of the rotors.

a simple counter-measure to use is to stick a flathead screwdriver into the vents to see which way the vanes are facing. never trust the labelling on the box for any generic rotor company.

and i do agree to also stay with the oem rotors for track/autox use.