Notices
Series I Wheels, Tires, Brakes & Suspension

Need Help NOW Please

Old Apr 29, 2011 | 03:11 AM
  #1  
Wallets's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Need Help NOW Please

I am trying to install my rear shocks and springs right now and my alignment cam bolt is stuck and i have tried everything to get out somebody help please
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 08:39 AM
  #2  
Charles R. Hill's Avatar
Owner of BHR
iTrader: (7)
 
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 4,101
Likes: 45
Randy, the lateral link with the cam bolt does not need to be removed in order to remove the rear dampers. I can't remember exactly which link(s) need to be removed but, due to my concerns about rear alignment, I never remove that link when swapping rear dampers.

Wait a minute; maybe it is that I only remove the links at the other end (as in the knuckle end and not the chassis end)....... I think that is what I do.
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 08:41 AM
  #3  
L337fpc's Avatar
ლ(ಠ益ಠლ)
iTrader: (4)
 
Joined: Sep 2008
Posts: 2,368
Likes: 6
From: Franeke
i do not remember having to remove that to drop the rear suspension...but PB Blaster works wonders for troublesome nuts/bolts.

Maybe take a pic of the area?
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 09:45 AM
  #4  
9krpmrx8's Avatar
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 33,788
Likes: 462
From: San Antonio, Texas
I also drop that piece and remove the cam bolt when installing shocks. I just mark it with a Sharpie and line it back up. As far as removing it, well just get a BFH and bang it out.
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 09:49 AM
  #5  
J8635621's Avatar
Pew Pew Pew
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,344
Likes: 128
From: Waco
http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...hock_rear.html I follow this and it has worked out pretty well for me. My alignment stayed decent.
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 09:52 AM
  #6  
9krpmrx8's Avatar
SARX Legend
iTrader: (46)
 
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 33,788
Likes: 462
From: San Antonio, Texas
TX

Originally Posted by J8635621
http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...hock_rear.html I follow this and it has worked out pretty well for me. My alignment stayed decent.

that is my favorite DIY, I recreated it and have it saved on my PC since it was gone for a while. Of course now I have done so many RX-8 suspension swaps it is second nature.
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 09:55 AM
  #7  
J8635621's Avatar
Pew Pew Pew
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,344
Likes: 128
From: Waco
Yea his stuff is pretty good.
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 11:59 AM
  #8  
Wallets's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
yeah mine was stuck i tried everything but we removed the upper control arms on the rear and that worked fine i followed yangs diy and the one that was for series 2 koni install which was all accurate. My car was just rusted to crap under neath and with an impact gun took forever.
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:02 PM
  #9  
Wallets's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
I have a question after the install my steering wheel feels lose when not driving over 25 my steering wheel feels unresponsive i cant tell my wheels are turning until my steering wheel makes a full rotation in the way i want to turn
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:12 PM
  #10  
Wallets's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
Ok forgot to say my question is that is this feeling normal i seem to remember when while in a parking lot i would barely to have to move the steering wheel for it to go around pedestrians and stuff. am i wrong?
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:26 PM
  #11  
Ross_Dawg's Avatar
Registered Toker
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 5,545
Likes: 1
From: Bend, OR
No that doesn't sound normal... you tightened your lug nuts yeah?
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:47 PM
  #12  
paimon.soror's Avatar
Registered
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 7,560
Likes: 27
From: Between Cones
Originally Posted by Charles R. Hill
Randy, the lateral link with the cam bolt does not need to be removed in order to remove the rear dampers. I can't remember exactly which link(s) need to be removed but, due to my concerns about rear alignment, I never remove that link when swapping rear dampers.

Wait a minute; maybe it is that I only remove the links at the other end (as in the knuckle end and not the chassis end)....... I think that is what I do.
Knuckle end is the most recommended I believe to be sure not to muck with alignment, but isn't the general rule of thumb to get an alignment any time changes are made to suspension parts that sit at different heights and wheels that have different overall diameters?

Edit:

OP by "stuck" do you mean it wont turn at all or it wont slide out? The bolt threads into the hole pretty tight so you will need to wiggle it or hit it out with a hammer since it gets hit with road dirt / dust/ elements. You can also try turning the cam bolt from the other end back and forth to loosen its binding against the arm/hole.
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 12:54 PM
  #13  
Wallets's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
I have gotten to bolt out and everything is changed i have konis and s-techs on now but the steering seems strange. I torqued all lug nuts down so idk possibly not torqued properly?
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 01:01 PM
  #14  
J8635621's Avatar
Pew Pew Pew
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 6,344
Likes: 128
From: Waco
Check to make sure you tightened everything down properly. EVERYTHING. Especially the A arm bolts or whatever in the front.
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 01:09 PM
  #15  
Wallets's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
I torqued everything down to torque specs for the control arm bolts but i couldn't get the front passengers side end link off the bolt wasn't moving so i broke it lose and retorqued it but it kept spinning even with the Allen wrench inside the screw so it didn't rotate while tightening. But it just kept spinning could this have something to do about my lose steering?
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 01:45 PM
  #16  
paimon.soror's Avatar
Registered
iTrader: (15)
 
Joined: Jun 2010
Posts: 7,560
Likes: 27
From: Between Cones
Shouldn't affect loose steering but would make an *** ton of rattling noises when driving. Did you get an alignment yet?
Reply
Old Apr 29, 2011 | 02:34 PM
  #17  
Wallets's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
no i just installed that stuff last night my car drives straight as an arrow but i am going to get it aligned to make sure the camber is correct. I just drove it around to see how to steering is an the steering wheel light came on and my steering back rock hard and i couldnt turn it
Reply
Old Apr 30, 2011 | 10:31 AM
  #18  
Wallets's Avatar
Thread Starter
Registered User
iTrader: (1)
 
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 94
Likes: 0
From: Wisconsin
ok so i found a thread by mm about EPS connector dirty and cleaning it so i did that. My Power steering light hasnt turned back on i drove about 250 miles yesterday the car seems fine but the steering is still lose when below 25. I went to some alignment shops and they said it shouldnt be alignment that is causing this problem. I contacted a mazda dealership in my area and they said it could be because there is a steering sensor that may not be working correctly. Has anyone else heard of this problem?
Reply


Thread Tools
Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:
You have already rated this thread Rating: Thread Rating: 0 votes,  average.


All times are GMT -5. The time now is 09:51 AM.