HKS Hipermax suspension
06-12-2008, 05:42 PM
#1
HKS Hipermax suspension
I want to install those coilovers as fast as possible.
Can I do it by myself or better spend some money to the mechanical shop????
Is any of you try to do it by yourself without the compresion springs tool ??? I dont want to pay 300$ for something I would be able do it by myslef over the weekend. Please I need some advice.
Can I do it by myself or better spend some money to the mechanical shop????
Is any of you try to do it by yourself without the compresion springs tool ??? I dont want to pay 300$ for something I would be able do it by myslef over the weekend. Please I need some advice.
06-13-2008, 01:06 PM
#4
the hard part will really be taking off the stock components. they are extremely tight....yea you'll probably need a spring compressor to take off the top mounts from the stock assembly. i've done it before without a spring compressor before and it wasn't fun. i don't recommend it just to be on the safe side. I was able to install hks coilovers myself in about 6 hours taking my time, but i already had experience with the rx8 suspension prior.
06-13-2008, 09:50 PM
#5
Ngo talking about taking off the top mounts did you mean those on the back coilovers??? I will maybe try to rent the tool to compres spring. And I read DIY but there they have JIC coilovers. And what was the hard part on it ??? those top mounts??? Any advice how to take it off easy???? or you have to use some special force
?????
Thanks !!
????? Thanks !!
06-13-2008, 09:54 PM
#6
And what you mean they are tight there ??? After take off all nuts and everything what holds them they will still sits there ???? I change some shocks before long time ago but it was very very different car in Europe FIAT so I dont know if I can do it this on the street with my rx8
06-15-2008, 01:38 AM
#16
dang, sorry for taking so long to respond motomouse. don't post as often as i use to...
yes i mean having to compress the rear factory shocks in order to reuse the upper spring seat. what i mean by them being tight is that the stock parts are usually REALLY tight from the factory. especially the upper nut on the shock absorber. as long as you have the tools and the strength to get them off it should be fine. breaker bar would be nice.
The fronts are actually pretty easy to put on the car. You won't reuse any of the stock components, so it's just plug and play. it was harder to take the stock shock out than it was to put the hks coilover in. this is because the coilover is smaller than the stock unit.
As for the rears, fitting them in will be easy as well, but you'll need to have someone hold it up while you run the adjustment cable through the trunk. what i ended up doing by myself was positioning it on the control arm and actually sitting in the trunk to hook the cable up. wasn't hard for me because i'm small.
tools i had during my install were basically torque wrench, socket wrenches, hex wrenches, floor jack, and jack stands.
Follow the DIYs on the forum for taking out the stock parts and you won't have too much of a hassle with the install.
yes i mean having to compress the rear factory shocks in order to reuse the upper spring seat. what i mean by them being tight is that the stock parts are usually REALLY tight from the factory. especially the upper nut on the shock absorber. as long as you have the tools and the strength to get them off it should be fine. breaker bar would be nice.
The fronts are actually pretty easy to put on the car. You won't reuse any of the stock components, so it's just plug and play. it was harder to take the stock shock out than it was to put the hks coilover in. this is because the coilover is smaller than the stock unit.
As for the rears, fitting them in will be easy as well, but you'll need to have someone hold it up while you run the adjustment cable through the trunk. what i ended up doing by myself was positioning it on the control arm and actually sitting in the trunk to hook the cable up. wasn't hard for me because i'm small.
tools i had during my install were basically torque wrench, socket wrenches, hex wrenches, floor jack, and jack stands.
Follow the DIYs on the forum for taking out the stock parts and you won't have too much of a hassle with the install.
06-21-2008, 04:47 AM
#19
Merchant Of Pace
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My mechanic wants $384 for the install. He's good but expensive. Anyone have a link for a GOOD DIY for coilover install. Most of what I found was sketchy.
06-21-2008, 07:27 PM
#21
Ok I did the front today. from 11 to 5pm with some beers brake. The most difficult was taking the end links out those screws with hex is horrible I have to cut one off with griner Thanks to swoope I had two front endlinks from him. And by the time I take out the sway bar I had a problem to put progress sway bar back looks biger I have to take one side of the intercooler bracket. Anyway coilovers was not so hard to take off from the car after I loose arm nuts.
So coilovers was not so hard but those rust endlinks was the most difficult and time consuming and playing with the sway bar it takes me more time then I thought.
After that I install mazdaspeed strut bar and everything feels good but I have to do the back before I push my car more in the corners
I have to take one side of the intercooler bracket. Anyway coilovers was not so hard to take off from the car after I loose arm nuts.So coilovers was not so hard but those rust endlinks was the most difficult and time consuming and playing with the sway bar it takes me more time then I thought.
After that I install mazdaspeed strut bar and everything feels good but I have to do the back before I push my car more in the corners
06-21-2008, 07:39 PM
#23
Now Iam start thinking about back Iam worried are those f... endlinks will be a problem again why mazda make them that way and I dont have the back ones to replace if something happend. And the uper mount cone hmmm skill NYC ?? I never did this before so I am not sure If I have skills and enought strenght.
I will have to think about it to next saturday maybe Iam gonna do it.
I will have to think about it to next saturday maybe Iam gonna do it.
06-21-2008, 07:55 PM
#24
without a spring compressor, it is possible if you get enough grip on the shock to be able to torque the nut off with enough leverage. just be careful so you don't get hit on recoil when the nut comes off. it doesn't recoil too much, but it does pop back.
as for the endlinks, using a hex wrench and combination wrench should do the trick. if it is rusted, spray a load of WD-40 on it and let it sit. it is tight but you shouldn't have break it.
as for the endlinks, using a hex wrench and combination wrench should do the trick. if it is rusted, spray a load of WD-40 on it and let it sit. it is tight but you shouldn't have break it.
06-22-2008, 03:14 PM
#25
I use WD40 spray like few days before and on saturday before I try to take off those rusty nuts. passanger come off preaty good I dont even have to hold much the hex but driver side my wrench sit good on the nut but when I use force the nut just slide like it was made from plastic and I dont have choice I have to cut it i try pillars but those wasnt better than wrench. Thanks Ngo
and I dont have choice I have to cut it i try pillars but those wasnt better than wrench. Thanks Ngo