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front brake pad rattle
Hello,
I tried to do a search for this, but couldn't find anything definitive. When I go over bumps / road imperfections, my front brakes rattle. If I apply the brakes even lightly, the rattle is gone. Looking at the pads themselves, I noticed that there is quite a bit of play in their position, a.k.a. they can move around about 3 mm left to right. I'm trying to figure out if this is a cause for my recent rotor warpage woes (I'm only at 16k miles and have warped two rotors). My concern is that if the pad can rattle around like that, I picture the edge of the pad getting jammed up against the rotor then being forced to settle and shimmy into position under brake load. Has anyone else experienced this? Is there a fix? Maybe different retaining clips? Thanks, Filip |
Check and see if you have a metal clip on the caliper connecting the bad on the top and another on the bottom. Each caliper should have two clips. These are anti-rattle clips. I had one fall off and every now and then I hear the rattle slightly. Hopefully this helps you.
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Thanks for the reply. Yeah, all the clips are there.
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Are your pads worn?
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70% left, just installed a month ago but went to Laguna Seca (pad killer)
Edit: two months ago actually |
I've a friend who got this symptom when he changed to an aftermarket pad. The pad company says they slightly undersize their pads to keep them from binding and the movement is normal. Have you upgraded your pads? ... or perhaps it occurs with the stock pad, but I've never noticed really.
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I did upgrade my pads...first to Endless CC-X, which chewed up my rotors (too aggresive for street)...then to Axxis Ultimate, which are less aggresive.
You are right that I first noticed it when upgrading pads, but I called Endless about it and they asked me to put the stock pads and Endless pads back to back and compare and when I did that there was absolutely no difference. Is there some special way those retaining clips need to be secured...are they supposed to be tight against the caliper or tight against the pad? |
Tight against the caliber, and the pad will then (ideally) be a snug fit into the clip when you slide them in.
IOW the clips themselves are sort of a snap into the caliper 1st. then you move the pads into place and they slightly expand the spring part of the clip. |
Yeah, that's the issue, the clips are currently tight against the caliper, but when you put the pads in they have a LOT of play.
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Emailed Tripoint Engineering about this and they seem to think it's okay for there to be play in the pad itself...they think it's an issue of uneven pad transfer...that helps a lot :uhh:
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sounds like BS to me, the pads should be a snug fit in the clips, mine always have been, even the custom machined pads :dunno:
you can buy new clips from Mazda, they come in a kit with the heat and anti-squeal shim plates, part# F1Y1-33-29ZA, does both sides |
Yea perhaps your old clips are compressed somehow and new ones would solve the issue, esp. if the new pads are the same dimensions as the old as you say.
Strange as I've reused the old w/no problems before. I think the clips come in the hardware kit w/shims and is like $17 per axle. |
Originally Posted by kinchu007
(Post 2531212)
70% left, just installed a month ago but went to Laguna Seca (pad killer)
Edit: two months ago actually Buy the Porterfield carbon Kevlar pads and get rotors from them, pay extra for Cryogenic treating. No more warp rotors. They are in Costa Mesa |
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 2532029)
sounds like BS to me, the pads should be a snug fit in the clips, mine always have been, even the custom machined pads :dunno:
you can buy new clips from Mazda, they come in a kit with the heat and anti-squeal shim plates, part# F1Y1-33-29ZA, does both sides |
Originally Posted by Spin9k
(Post 2532256)
Yea perhaps your old clips are compressed somehow and new ones would solve the issue, esp. if the new pads are the same dimensions as the old as you say.
Strange as I've reused the old w/no problems before. I think the clips come in the hardware kit w/shims and is like $17 per axle. |
Originally Posted by Razz1
(Post 2533568)
No its a rotor killer.
Buy the Porterfield carbon Kevlar pads and get rotors from them, pay extra for Cryogenic treating. No more warp rotors. They are in Costa Mesa |
check your dust guards
...i had rattling and it turned out that the dust guard got bumped and it would tap or rattle against the caliper/rotor going over bumps. |
Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 2532029)
sounds like BS to me, the pads should be a snug fit in the clips, mine always have been, even the custom machined pads :dunno:
you can buy new clips from Mazda, they come in a kit with the heat and anti-squeal shim plates, part# F1Y1-33-29ZA, does both sides
Originally Posted by kinchu007
(Post 2534188)
Thanks Team, I ordered that part #...will have them install it as part of the brake ducting job.
Round and round we go...haha |
Originally Posted by kinchu007
(Post 2531261)
Yeah, that's the issue, the clips are currently tight against the caliper, but when you put the pads in they have a LOT of play.
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If you were worried about binding you can simply leave the clips out, otherwise having them in and then machining the pad completely defeats the purpose for them being in there
no disrespect to Porterfield as they get plenty of my business (though I don't use their specific pads or rotors) but beware the BS dripping from this thread, there wasn't anything different from the OE pad so the clearance thing is crap, claiming you need new pads and rotors is crap too |
Originally Posted by Spin9k
(Post 2537353)
Something might not be right with your install...I can't really think of any way what you describe can be so out of the ordinary. Can you get a macro closeup of your rotor/caliper/clip areas so we can see what/how you've installed everything there? It may be something really simple.... if you're lucky...and as many of us have done this many times and we could see if all looks correct.
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Originally Posted by TeamRX8
(Post 2537454)
If you were worried about binding you can simply leave the clips out, otherwise having them in and then machining the pad completely defeats the purpose for them being in there
no disrespect to Porterfield as they get plenty of my business (though I don't use their specific pads or rotors) but beware the BS dripping from this thread, there wasn't anything different from the OE pad so the clearance thing is crap, claiming you need new pads and rotors is crap too |
Excuse my so not clean & rusty brakes vs your new lol but here you go to compare. I don't see anything out of the ordinary with yours...perhaps there is no problem and you're just worring about something that doesn't matter and is normal dunknow?
As far as warped rotors are you sure (from direct measurement) the are out of spec or is there only a pulsing pedal and therefore perhaps pad deposit? http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/ff266/spin9k/top.jpg http://i240.photobucket.com/albums/f...n9k/bottom.jpg |
I don 't see why those would rattle, looks like they need some brake grease at the sliding points
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