HotBrothers

iTrader: (1)

I recently changed my pads and rotors from Rotorpros, and after the replacement,
the Brake kinda got "smooth" and it took more time to stop before the replacement.
I feel like when I push the brake pedal, compared to before replacement, the brake
pedal goes all the way in (steep) causing some difficulties to stop the car.
After the replacement, I drove the car about 400 miles. I also notice that when I
stop in a sudden, some grinding noise comes from the car. (Not the brake pad squeaking noise).

Does my pads and rotors need more time to break-in or do you guys think
there were some kind of mistakes during the replacement?
I will greatly appreciate your feedbacks. Thanks!

lta_ds_fs7

iTrader: (2)

Did you bleed the brakes after installing the new pads and rotors?

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

Did you bleed the system and bed them in properly?

HotBrothers

iTrader: (1)

Yes

wrightcomputing

iTrader: (5)

My thoughts would also have been that they were not bled properly and there is still air in the lines. Were they good quality replacements?

lta_ds_fs7

iTrader: (2)

In which order did you bleed the lines?

HotBrothers

iTrader: (1)

The rotors and pads were from Rotorpros.. they have pretty good feedbacks by many users of this club.
I called the shop who've done the installation job and they told me to bring the vehicle back... they said they did bleed properly but will see

lta_ds_fs7

iTrader: (2)

I see...I was under the impression you did them yourself.

Arca_ex

iTrader: (10)

If the shop can't get a simple brake job right the first time I definitely wouldn't be going back there. You should learn how to bleed the brakes yourself, it's not that hard and would be a good learning experience with the car.

HotBrothers

iTrader: (1)

I would like to do it by myself but I don't have my own garage and living with host families.
I went to the other shop and guys took the test drive with me, claiming the brake is "tight". They told me it's not related to the bleeding and told me I need to change the "brake booster" which I don't even know what the heck is it for. Labor costs $350 and the part is about $100ish.

c0ldf1ame

iTrader: (5)

um i don't know what shops your going to but if your car was braking fine before the change, it shouldn't affect the feel that much after the change, my advice is go to a reputable shop in the area that's not trying to rip you off for parts

HotBrothers

iTrader: (1)

I did a lot of research to find a reputable shops and thats the shop I went to (brake booster)
I know I was dumb because I did the rotors/pads job where the labor was the cheapest.

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

Generally the installation of new pads and rotors would make the brake pedal a bit harder. And pedal travel should be less with the new pads.
If you have more pedal travel and less braking force then you have an issue that I would deem the responsibility of the installer. They did something wrong. Or something they did is not right.
As far as the brake booster going bad right after they did the brakes,,,not likely.

Do us a favor and look at both front and rear rotors and try to determine that they are functioning properly. Note any differences between the rotor surfaces. Do they look like they have all been braking properly? Does the E-Brake function OK?

HotBrothers

iTrader: (1)

Thank you so much for your reply. What does the E-brake mean?

Easy_E1

iTrader: (2)

Emergency brake/Parking brake. The handle on the right of the gear shift.

HotBrothers

iTrader: (1)

Yeap the parking brake works properly. I took a look at the rotor surface and I could not notice something noticeable...When I push the brake pedal, I feel the same deep-ness before the replacement but just takes long to stop... feels like the brake is stopping very smoothly where it should stop suddenly.

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

I think you need to bed the pads properly. Here's a very informative post about Brake FAQ.