And I wasn't asking about speed only handling. Im not trying to drag race, RX-8 isn't meant for that or else it would have been a 12 second car to being with. Trying to somewhat embrace what it is.

 

Wheels add weight to the unsprung weight of the car, meaning it takes more power to turn them.

There is a happy medium of weight/handling that's usually at 235/245 width and 40-45 side wall on the stock tires.

You can get lighter wheels with slightly ticker tires that will help out.

The tire brand helps out immensely as well.

Assuming you are going for a competitive racing...

 

Speed and handling go hand in hand.

Unless you want to setup for turns at 30mph then you can go put some 305's on and roll your fenders good day sir.

 

I meant the purpose of the wheel not how the weight affects the speed and the power, that's all common sense to me, we are talking about handling, and how width makes the tire heavier, but adds traction by allowing a wider tire. I never said that just thought it was common knowledge.

 

I have 275's now and go 100+... I'm confused. Maybe we should add a transfer case, jack it up and add some 35's and go mudding. Then maybe 55-60 miles an hour with about 5 miles per gallon.

 

Does haloperidol mean anything to you?

Maybe Librium?

 

Yeah I take my meds. Mobicam. For my mechanics elbow. That's it.

 

So the answer to my question is there is no supporting evidence to show any one setup is better than the other, besides the butt skid pad, that is within ones own opinion, of which one is better than which. Trying to find which setup I should go with, and don't think anyone changed my mind on it. Thanks, and I will be here all night!!

 

You have all the answers. I don't even know why your keyboard has a question mark on it.

 

Its a trade off everything is a trade off with a car.

Wider tires = more weight = less power to get out of the corner = bad handling.

To improve handling you need to reduce unsprung weight, increase the front sway bar diameter, get an alignment for your particular arena. If you can decrease unspring weight while improving the system or keeping it around the same weight you are golden. For example two piece slotted rotors same braking capacity 3 lbs less in each corner

So like I said before pick an arena, track, street,drift, auto-x. search those subforums and find what people are running.

A bone stock 8 with custom alignment selected for a particular arena will beat up a good amount of highly modified 8's.

 

275's?!?! I am 100% confident a bone stock RX8 would pull 30 seconds to 1 minute faster than you on a road course.

 

Thanks that's good to know, failed to remember the power getting out of the turn helps to hug the corners also. I didn't know about the rotor weight, that would reduce 1/10 second off a quarter mile for drag. Sway bar diameter or strength? Could go hand in hand but different materials could be smaller around but just as strong.

 

But the stock 8 would be squeal chirping all over the place

 

I would agree, just on acceleration.

 

Remove the entire interior all the bullshit plastics, anything you don't need, switch to lighter materials wherever you can.

Sway bar diameter is for strength yes, again it all depends on your arena. It sounds like you want to drag race your car.

If you want an all around street car run nothing larger than 245's get a stiffer front sway bar, switch to lighter materials where possible.

But remember you need to pay to play. If you get cheap parts you get cheap results.

 

No in and out of the turns as well... You would never catch up, unless you put a turbo in.

 

Must not have seen my post a few up, my opinion is RX-8 isn't made to drag, just trying embracing its purpose. Eventually I'll go fi, and those wide wheels will help to go faster in those same corners.

 

You accelerate in and out of turns.

 

You don't even have a basic understanding of the topic so why start a thread asking questions? I'm giving you a hard time because I'm just trying to make you understand how stupid your questions and statements are in hopes that you will learn something. But Instead you are trying to justify your heavy wheels by comparing them to wheels used on a NASCAR race car. It's just ridiculous man, think about it. And this is not the first thread you start like this. Ask a stupid question, get a stupid answer.

Oh, and it's U.S. Navy, not US Navy. It's embarrassing that we share the same branch of service. Bitching and moaning about me picking on you, and talking about dicks and asses will get you no where buddy. So unwad your panties and go search the suspension threads.

 

No panties in a wad here. I hate to say it but the only thing we share is the type of car we drive. Didn't know you are enlisted in the United States Navy.

 

This makes my brain hurt...

 

This blanket statement shows you have completely neglected every other aspect of not only a tire, but the vehicle itself.

Surely you don't think a 300/70 is "better" than a 225/45

 

Hmm this is a subject I can talk about.

I wanted to kick it off by saying handling is subjective. A car on a autocross course can out grip and get around the cones faster then any other car at a given event but it may not do so well around a road course or on the streets.

The single best way to gain more grip in any given situation is by putting on as light of rims and as sticky of tires as a person can afford.

The second best way to add more grip is a proper alignment. If you don't track or auto-cross i would keep it close to stock.

You could put down 10k$ on a full JRZ/Moton race suspension that would not work as well as stock on the street. For the street the last thing you want is super low and stiff.

That same 10k$ JRZ/Moton set up will also work like crap without the a lightweight wheel and tire set up along with a good alignment.

NASCAR cars run heavy rims because that is what they are mandated to use. If a sanctioning body let the cars run what ever they wanted to they would use as lightweight of a wheel as they could. At that point we are talking about forged magnesium rims and the like. Those sort of parts cost lots and lots of money. I also suspect they use those rims to help keep the wheels from flying to far in an accident. As much as I don't like NASCAR they really do try and keep things competitive among the teams.



TLDR: Pick up as lightweight and sticky of tires and rims as you can afford. Get and alignment. Don't spend a boat load on a racing suspension. NASCAR rims are heavy for reasons not related to on track performance.

 

I agree with you there and thank God for that. An I never said I am enlisted. Now go search and read.

 

This thread is evidential proof that a high post count means nothing in terms of enlightenment, due to the misinformed nature of this thread I restrict myself from commenting further to avoid a future aneurysm.