Adjustable endlinks - adjustment question
 

I bought and installed the Agency Power adjustatble front endlinks. The factory ones failed and the upgraded TSB ones failed as well.

What is the proper way to adjust the endlink length so it is correct in relationship to the sways and RB lowering springs? Thanks.

In Relation to the Front Sway Bar you want to keep the bar Horizontal(Completely level with the Ground, so adjusting the bolts height so that depending on your ride height making it shorter in length to pull the bar to a horizontal position.

Let me know if that helps or have any other questions.

Upgraded TSB?..

Why does the end-link length matter?

When you lower the car the direction of the bar changes from its most powerful and effective position. ( The bar will point at an angle, upwards.)

So the end link will bring it back down to it correct position. (Horizontal and level with the ground)

http://www.evo-r.net/product/RX-8/LINK/OEMLINK2.jpg

http://www.evo-r.net/product/RX-8/LINK/OEMLINK3.jpg

Without cutting-and-pasting or plagiarizing somebody else's text, why is this important?

Come on Brice, let's have some fun!:lol2:

I got a better question Ray.. :x Using the adjustable endlinks..how do you get the rear to be horizontal with the rear auto-level sensor in the way? If it wasn't, I'd have no problem...but seems to be causing me some grief.

I am not cutting and pasting anyones text, I did however grab the pics elsewhere.

But we will see who is laughing this Friday....Got a nice product release right up your alley.

You have a PM Charles....:lol:

Shouldn't you be asking the one who sold the links to you? They oughta know.

If the angle is not close to 90 degrees it puts strange loads on the joints.....and it can lead to binding..or worst case scenario..the bar will lock on the frame......causing very large increases in effective spring rate :) Not good for handling...

Bring it, Bro, I love Capitalism but I don't take any of this as a joke when it comes to giving people solid advice rather than just shoving parts in their hands.

No I don't.

Was just stating.. I was assuming it's for all rears considering everyone has a autolevel sensor..

I forgot to say, "All PMS replied!". :lol2:

Call me if you want to talk, Brice, you have the Batphone number.;)

This same principle applies when it comes to suspension drops, too.
The word I was looking for was "pre-load".
Further, before anybody thinks I am getting personal with Brice/Fluid please understand that I am trying to encourage all of we vendors to engage in technical discussion so those who read these conversations can see what their favorite vendors' opinons are (on a strictly technical level) and decide the theory or theories with which they are most comfortable. Nobody on the BHR team is arrogant enough to actually think we know everything and we certainly enjoy the opportunity to share ideas and learn something in the process. And maybe have a little healthy competition in the process as we are more concerned with the end benefit to the market more than anything else. The current vendor rules quash these opportunities.

:eyetwitch:eyetwitch:lol::lol::)

Okay, then. Erick, Todd, and myself anyway. :lol2:
Speaking of that; there is nothing funnier than when I get Jeff to look at me like he hears a dog whistle being blown.

The purpose of a sway bar is to keep the "loaded" side of the car even with the "unloaded" side of the car in a turn. So all it's technically doing is flexing itself.
This is the purpose of a larger sway bar. To not flex as much. As far as the endlink position it is all relative to the opposite side of the sway bar.
Now if the sway bar was fixed to the frame and not able to rotate in the mounting brackets then height would be an issue.
Just be sure to make sure they are at the same height on both sides.
But the sway bar does not deal with the mounting points as much as it deals with rotational flex and even height of the endlinks.

Mine is set up the same way. I have my ap endlink set to the stiff position that means its in the hole close to the bar. From the sounds of it. Yours is the same way. My car is lowered on tanabe gf210 springs. So there is really no way for me to set the bar straight. Trust me that sucker is on there tight.
Even with the autolevel sensor in the way I use a short alenwrench on the end of a socket wrench to hold it from spinning and used a long 17" box end wrench to tourqe it the bolts down. Works for me.
But keep an eye on the bolts as they tend to come lose over time.
-Gil

Here is the curious thing about swaybars and adjustable end-links; swaybars such as the Progress Techs for the front of the RX-8 have 3 holes on each side and are considered "5-way" adjustable. Why might that be? Further, many people misunderstand the purpose of adjustable end-links and the differences in how the center rods are threaded and their implications.

And herein lies a HUGE secret to what makes BHR the best........

... and this advice comes from a guy who has no fiducuary interest in the matter. thx, Gil.;)

The adjustability of the sway bar ends allows the user to adjust the torsional flexibility of the sway bar. Think leverage.
The closer in the setting to the front of the bar the more stiff the bar becomes. The farther out the mounting point (end of sway bar end link mount) will make the bar more flexible.

some good info coming out here... subscribed..

Uhh its fiduciary not eiducuary.

Gil, what are you talking about? I didn't misspell anything........

Well actually you both did. :lol2:

fiduciary