chillax

I have a 2007 GT A/T. It has around 28k miles on it.

I don't drive very often, and occasionally I'll need a jump start because the battery has lost some power.

Recently, I had an electrical problem that was causing the battery to be drained completely.

Whenever I would park, the icon indicating the key was still in the car would start flashing - and continue to flash even though the smartkey was not inside. Locking the doors would work, but then I'd hear a constant click like the car was trying to unlock itself - but the doors wouldn't unlock. I know from past experience, that the car will unlock itself if it thinks the key is inside. Trying to save my battery, I removed the ROOM fuse that controls keyless entry.

Then the CEL came on and I was nervous to drive around, so after a few minutes I just turned it off and planned on taking it to a shop the following Monday. In the meantime I had the battery tested and found that it was bad (not surprising considering the multiple cycles down to zero).

I plugged in the brand new battery yesterday morning, and now the car has no power. No gauges move and no lights will come on inside the car (after replacing the ROOM fuse). I visibly checked all the fuses under the control panel. I also visibly checked all the fuses under the hood with the exception of the main fuse. Nothing looked blown. For the main fuse, I hooked up a voltmeter and saw that there was zero resistance.

Right now I have a few questions:

Is it enough to read zero resistance across the screws on the main fuse to determine that its not blown?

Are the connections to my battery are clean enough to not cause a problem (pics attached)?

Is there anything else I can check before I have to call a tow truck?

Mr.Mango

iTrader: (2)

If you get infinite resistance (no reading) across the main fuse it is blown. Another way would be to check if you have B+ voltage on either side of the fuse.

I would also clean up your connections, they look alright but never hurts.