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stupid question about seafom

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Old 04-09-2013, 06:02 PM
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stupid question about seafom

the car,04 mtx6
problems, won't idle when warm and hot start issue
things changed or cleaned,plugs,coils,air filter,oil,coolant,battery, verified upgraded starter.

and last but not least seafoamed.

ok, so here's the stupid question. I understand why you seafoam,I understand why you unplug the each sensor. But since I have a hot start issue and the car won't start when its hot I didn't unhook the eshaft sensor. While I was cranking it the car acted like it wanted to fire right up. Strange? It won't start hot any other time.needless to say I didn't start it. I turned it back real quick.it did it to me both times.it created enough vacuum to suck the rest of the bottle in without cranking. I did crank it a time or two to get it all along each rotor. So would my issue be fuel related by chance? Or could it possibly be related to the other two plug I unhooked?I waited two hours and fired it up following the rest of the diy instructions. Still wouldn't idle. It revs quick and smooth. It sounded good. The neighbor hated the smoke lol. Any input? Thanks
Old 04-09-2013, 06:08 PM
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No, the reason it is trying to fire is because the seafoam is providing a temporary seal, increasing compression while you crank. You can do the same thing more effectively with ATF, although any of these liquids are obviously going to burn off very quickly.

You may wish to see my Decarbing picture thread. I tried various decarbing methods, taking pictures before and after with a borescope. The "ingest and let sit" method doesn't really work by itself. It's more effective to ingest it while the car is running, both rotors at the same time. And using this method, distilled water is just as effective as seafoam, though seafoam is 100 times the cost per unit of volume.

A dealer's decarb procedure has other components involved that appear to increase the effectiveness of it, though obviously I can't test those.
Old 04-09-2013, 06:22 PM
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so what it you set up some sort of injection process to start the car when its was hot? Use the windshield washer motor and fluid reservoir? Hook two hose to it and give it a blast while or when cranking? And yeah I gather that h2o is relatively cheap compared to seafoam lol. Thanks.
Old 04-09-2013, 06:23 PM
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it won't fix my no idling problem but maybe the hot start for a short time lol
Old 04-09-2013, 06:25 PM
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It's not just compression... its the amount of fuel being injected as well. If you apply full throttle on start up it will cut all fuel and it may even start up after a couple revolutions. Eventually enough fuel is expended and it just cranks "dry" at that point.

Release throttle and try again... eventually you'll be able to feel where it's at AFR wise on crank... even easier to monitor with an external wideband such as an Innovate.
Old 04-09-2013, 06:29 PM
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I used the tubing, cut off 2 shorter sections, used a T to create a Y of the tubing, put one on each service port, fired up the car, dropped the other end of the tube into the liquid.

Distilled water will require that you stay on the throttle to keep the engine from stalling, so make the tube long enough to reach you in the driver's seat. If you use any liquid with a petroleum content (even windshield washer fluid has alcohol in it), then it should be able to idle by itself, though you may need to ease it into idle first.
Old 04-09-2013, 06:33 PM
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RIWWP, did you ever do an overnight soak with ATF? I've been thinking about doing it with the ess disconnected through both nipples as you suggest (but not running obviously) or via turkey baster in the spark plug holes.
Old 04-09-2013, 06:35 PM
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Nope, but I'm happy to link up with you some weekend with my borescope. I don't have an 8 available to test on any more.
Old 04-09-2013, 06:39 PM
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I think I'll do it shortly after DGRR. Was the scope expensive? I saw one on Buy.com a couple months back and resisted the urge.
Old 04-09-2013, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by ShellDude
It's not just compression... its the amount of fuel being injected as well. If you apply full throttle on start up it will cut all fuel and it may even start up after a couple revolutions. Eventually enough fuel is expended and it just cranks "dry" at that point.

Release throttle and try again... eventually you'll be able to feel where it's at AFR wise on crank... even easier to monitor with an external wideband such as an Innovate.
thanks, I'm familiar with this procedure. I did read hours of threads before joining/posting.
Old 04-09-2013, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by RIWWP
I used the tubing, cut off 2 shorter sections, used a T to create a Y of the tubing, put one on each service port, fired up the car, dropped the other end of the tube into the liquid.

Distilled water will require that you stay on the throttle to keep the engine from stalling, so make the tube long enough to reach you in the driver's seat. If you use any liquid with a petroleum content (even windshield washer fluid has alcohol in it), then it should be able to idle by itself, though you may need to ease it into idle first.
particularly a lot of his threads.great info. Very informative. Your threads a very detailed and informative.that's why I did plugs/coils,starter check,seafoam,catch can ordered before joining.I know hot start or lack there of is a major issue but right now I'd like to just get it to idle.lol. Thanks
Old 04-09-2013, 06:49 PM
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Originally Posted by ShellDude
I think I'll do it shortly after DGRR. Was the scope expensive? I saw one on Buy.com a couple months back and resisted the urge.
I think mine was like $23 shipped from Amazon
Old 04-09-2013, 06:51 PM
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my buddy Jon has a rx8 orange and black.he suggested this forum.he mentioned something about renting a compression tester. How would I go about doing that or finding someone close that has one? I'd certainly be willing to compensate them.
Old 04-09-2013, 07:11 PM
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Your best bet would be to just have a dealer do the compression test. Typically $140-$180 range.

If you don't want a dealer to do it, then PFS near Rockville MD is probably the closest non-dealer rotary shop.
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