stupid question about seafom
#1
stupid question about seafom
the car,04 mtx6
problems, won't idle when warm and hot start issue
things changed or cleaned,plugs,coils,air filter,oil,coolant,battery, verified upgraded starter.
and last but not least seafoamed.
ok, so here's the stupid question. I understand why you seafoam,I understand why you unplug the each sensor. But since I have a hot start issue and the car won't start when its hot I didn't unhook the eshaft sensor. While I was cranking it the car acted like it wanted to fire right up. Strange? It won't start hot any other time.needless to say I didn't start it. I turned it back real quick.it did it to me both times.it created enough vacuum to suck the rest of the bottle in without cranking. I did crank it a time or two to get it all along each rotor. So would my issue be fuel related by chance? Or could it possibly be related to the other two plug I unhooked?I waited two hours and fired it up following the rest of the diy instructions. Still wouldn't idle. It revs quick and smooth. It sounded good. The neighbor hated the smoke lol. Any input? Thanks
problems, won't idle when warm and hot start issue
things changed or cleaned,plugs,coils,air filter,oil,coolant,battery, verified upgraded starter.
and last but not least seafoamed.
ok, so here's the stupid question. I understand why you seafoam,I understand why you unplug the each sensor. But since I have a hot start issue and the car won't start when its hot I didn't unhook the eshaft sensor. While I was cranking it the car acted like it wanted to fire right up. Strange? It won't start hot any other time.needless to say I didn't start it. I turned it back real quick.it did it to me both times.it created enough vacuum to suck the rest of the bottle in without cranking. I did crank it a time or two to get it all along each rotor. So would my issue be fuel related by chance? Or could it possibly be related to the other two plug I unhooked?I waited two hours and fired it up following the rest of the diy instructions. Still wouldn't idle. It revs quick and smooth. It sounded good. The neighbor hated the smoke lol. Any input? Thanks
#2
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 253 Likes
on
110 Posts
No, the reason it is trying to fire is because the seafoam is providing a temporary seal, increasing compression while you crank. You can do the same thing more effectively with ATF, although any of these liquids are obviously going to burn off very quickly.
You may wish to see my Decarbing picture thread. I tried various decarbing methods, taking pictures before and after with a borescope. The "ingest and let sit" method doesn't really work by itself. It's more effective to ingest it while the car is running, both rotors at the same time. And using this method, distilled water is just as effective as seafoam, though seafoam is 100 times the cost per unit of volume.
A dealer's decarb procedure has other components involved that appear to increase the effectiveness of it, though obviously I can't test those.
You may wish to see my Decarbing picture thread. I tried various decarbing methods, taking pictures before and after with a borescope. The "ingest and let sit" method doesn't really work by itself. It's more effective to ingest it while the car is running, both rotors at the same time. And using this method, distilled water is just as effective as seafoam, though seafoam is 100 times the cost per unit of volume.
A dealer's decarb procedure has other components involved that appear to increase the effectiveness of it, though obviously I can't test those.
#3
so what it you set up some sort of injection process to start the car when its was hot? Use the windshield washer motor and fluid reservoir? Hook two hose to it and give it a blast while or when cranking? And yeah I gather that h2o is relatively cheap compared to seafoam lol. Thanks.
#5
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
It's not just compression... its the amount of fuel being injected as well. If you apply full throttle on start up it will cut all fuel and it may even start up after a couple revolutions. Eventually enough fuel is expended and it just cranks "dry" at that point.
Release throttle and try again... eventually you'll be able to feel where it's at AFR wise on crank... even easier to monitor with an external wideband such as an Innovate.
Release throttle and try again... eventually you'll be able to feel where it's at AFR wise on crank... even easier to monitor with an external wideband such as an Innovate.
#6
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 253 Likes
on
110 Posts
I used the tubing, cut off 2 shorter sections, used a T to create a Y of the tubing, put one on each service port, fired up the car, dropped the other end of the tube into the liquid.
Distilled water will require that you stay on the throttle to keep the engine from stalling, so make the tube long enough to reach you in the driver's seat. If you use any liquid with a petroleum content (even windshield washer fluid has alcohol in it), then it should be able to idle by itself, though you may need to ease it into idle first.
Distilled water will require that you stay on the throttle to keep the engine from stalling, so make the tube long enough to reach you in the driver's seat. If you use any liquid with a petroleum content (even windshield washer fluid has alcohol in it), then it should be able to idle by itself, though you may need to ease it into idle first.
#7
weeeeeeeeee
iTrader: (12)
RIWWP, did you ever do an overnight soak with ATF? I've been thinking about doing it with the ess disconnected through both nipples as you suggest (but not running obviously) or via turkey baster in the spark plug holes.
#10
It's not just compression... its the amount of fuel being injected as well. If you apply full throttle on start up it will cut all fuel and it may even start up after a couple revolutions. Eventually enough fuel is expended and it just cranks "dry" at that point.
Release throttle and try again... eventually you'll be able to feel where it's at AFR wise on crank... even easier to monitor with an external wideband such as an Innovate.
Release throttle and try again... eventually you'll be able to feel where it's at AFR wise on crank... even easier to monitor with an external wideband such as an Innovate.
#11
I used the tubing, cut off 2 shorter sections, used a T to create a Y of the tubing, put one on each service port, fired up the car, dropped the other end of the tube into the liquid.
Distilled water will require that you stay on the throttle to keep the engine from stalling, so make the tube long enough to reach you in the driver's seat. If you use any liquid with a petroleum content (even windshield washer fluid has alcohol in it), then it should be able to idle by itself, though you may need to ease it into idle first.
Distilled water will require that you stay on the throttle to keep the engine from stalling, so make the tube long enough to reach you in the driver's seat. If you use any liquid with a petroleum content (even windshield washer fluid has alcohol in it), then it should be able to idle by itself, though you may need to ease it into idle first.
#13
my buddy Jon has a rx8 orange and black.he suggested this forum.he mentioned something about renting a compression tester. How would I go about doing that or finding someone close that has one? I'd certainly be willing to compensate them.
#14
Registered
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Pacific Northwest
Posts: 16,684
Likes: 0
Received 253 Likes
on
110 Posts
Your best bet would be to just have a dealer do the compression test. Typically $140-$180 range.
If you don't want a dealer to do it, then PFS near Rockville MD is probably the closest non-dealer rotary shop.
If you don't want a dealer to do it, then PFS near Rockville MD is probably the closest non-dealer rotary shop.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Austin22
New Member Forum
5
09-23-2015 04:46 PM