8is>enuff

Flywheel, AKA the manhole cover. This thing is heavy.

Tanaka826

i just had the same problem with my car but i took it to the dealer and they told me that it was the master cylinder that was causing the problem. the car seems to be running perfectly fine now!! thank God for warantee

8is>enuff

That's actually a known and addressed problem I believe - http://www.finishlineperformance.com...4-06-1641a.pdf

I'm still looking for a reason why mine went kablooey.

8is>enuff

Sweet! Wait wait wait - I mean that sucks. Is there any way to check this without going back to the dealer?

My old clutch is on sale for $5 firm. Monopoly money accepted. You interested or should I start a FS thread?

8is>enuff

For $70 I'll cover the friction area with sandpaper (your choice of grit) and weld the broken spring back together for you.

8is>enuff

Congratulations! You win the paycheck. Downshifting from third to second today my clutch pedal cracked off the firewall. It cracked at the weld between the clutch pedal assembly and the firewall, and then wound up pointing to the right. I managed to push it back to center but it still wouldn't work. Called mazda roadside assist. and they towed it away. I actually have their number saved in my phone at this point.

After you mentioned this, I had checked several times to see if the pedal assembly was loose - pushing on the pedal and checking all the connections - but I was concentrating on the black metal that travels up from the pedal to the lever, and the welds surrounding that, not the one that connected to the firewall. I was using a flashlight, and checked three times.

This is a serious safety issue, and it's the second one I've heard about this week. I don't like the fact that I was driving around with an important control bound for failure.

Question: How would I go about getting a refund for the clutch work they just performed? Keep in mind I bought my own aftermarket clutch, so I'd probably only be entitled to the labor fee I paid.

Go48

Man that is scary! I would suggest you contact MNAO at the 800 number in your owners manual and report the clutch pedal problem as a definite safety defect. And then put it in writing and mail it to them and to the NHTSA. When you talk to MNAO, ask about a partial refund for the apparently unnecessary clutch work.

8is>enuff

I just got back from the dealer. They didn't seem all to concerned about the whole situation, even after I explained how the pedal cracked off while I was driving.

I spoke with the mazda service manager and the dealership service manager. Neither seemed to concerned about the pedal and they basically told me to shove it when I brought up the fact that the loose pedal was most likely the reason my clutch was shot to ****. They parroted the same thing over and over - "Mazda only covers clutches for 12/12"

I asked them to have the regional service rep call me, and I placed my own call to MNAO to lodge my complaint. I'm waiting to see how things go with the regional rep before I contact the NHTSA.

otherside

Clutch pedal low? No adjustment, its all hydraulic. Note: Check the clutch pedal assembly for cracks, will cause low clutch pedal feel and will prematurly wear clutch. Cracks will be where assembly bolts to firewall at spot welds.

8is>enuff

New issue. Any takers?

Now my clutch pedal feels like it's crunching sometimes. When I push it down it'll crunch at the end of travel. I checked the pedal assembly thoroughly and didn't see any cracks. The new bracket looks good. The feel leads me to believe this problem lies past the pedal assembly and is in the clutch itself.

Point of interest - the clutch/tranny sound loud in neutral. If I push the clutch in, put it in gear it and then take it out of gear the sound goes away.

Everything that came with the clutch combo is listed here - http://www.rx7store.net/product_p/actcomborx8.htm so everything should be brand new.

8is>enuff

Thanks. How did I not see that?

It seems I'm still a little jumpy from my whole ordeal.

8is>enuff

Would the clutch cut switch cause my clutch to not work at all? I may as well not have had a clutch pedal on the way home from work today. I got home by relying on the synchros to get me moving in first gear until it went into gear, then rev-matched everything else. It wouldn't even think about going into reverse. Also, if I came to a stop in first gear and then let off the brake, I started to move forward as if the clutch was at the point of engagement.

I got home and looked at the assembly again but didn't see anything, so I pulled my car into my garage and turned it off. Now it won't start. Good thing too, because I'd probably put a brick on the accel and ghost-ride this POS off a cliff.

Well, maybe not but I'm frustrated as hell. I'm going back to check everything out now while I still have some light. Suggestions?

8is>enuff

I got it to start. Apparently you're not supposed to touch the starter interlock switch. I did while I was checking out the pedal assembly. No problem, I'll get a new one tomorrow.

The rest of the problems still exist (regarding the lack of a working clutch), so the starter switch wasn't the original culprit. Still looking for ideas.

8is>enuff

I've been under there nearly a dozen times now, and each time I've pushed the pedal down to the floor as far as it goes and shined a led flashlight on the whole assembly. It's not too hard to get under there after I move the seat back and lay on my back. I'm positive I have pushed it as far as it goes.

I've checked the black metal that extends from the pedal to the lever and double checked my new bracket. I've also checked what I can see of the spring and the various clips. Everything looks solid, save for a little bit of lateral motion that doesn't seem to affect the engagement. Hell, I can get a video of it tomorrow if that would help.

Thanks so much by the way. I really appreciate your assistance.

I'm bringing it to the dealer shortly for a new airbag sensor and intermittent CEL. I'm going to have them look at it but I'd like to be able to make it there without thrashing my tranny.

8is>enuff

I'm still waiting on the switch, which should be here tomorrow. I ordered the wrong one the first time. I can get the car to start so I've been looking into my shifting issues.

My shifting problem still remains. The symptoms are as follows:

- My clutch pedal squeaks when it's near the floor. It happens in both directions. I know there's a tsb for this and will have it checked out.
- Shifting is normal upon startup and during the first 30 min of driving. The problem seems to occur after I drive for 30 minutes or so shut the car off and then turn it back on (both restarts have been while the car was still warm, maybe 20 min of downtime). Prolonged idling exacerbates the problem.
- When I start it up again it won't go into first or reverse, and the engagement of the clutch is at the verrrry bottom of pedal travel, about 1/4 inch off the firewall.
- My idle has become rough. It probably isn't related but I thought I'd mention it.
- I have a CEL. I always have a CEL of some sort.
- I recently changed my tranny and diff fluids.

Heat seems to be a factor.
The "floating" engagement point leads me to believe it may be the bracket (though I've lost count of how many times I've looked for a separation in the pedal assembly and related parts), the master or slave cyl, or a clutch line/fluid issue.

For those not familiar with my issues, I just had a new clutch and fly installed after my stock clutch crapped out. Maybe everything wasn't reinstalled correctly?

I have an appointment to go to the dealer once my new ABS harness comes in, so I'm going to have them check it out when I go. If there's anything I haven't mentioned just ask.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...4-06-1641a.pdf

see if this also applies to you.. the floating engagement point sure sounds like it..

beers

8is>enuff

The dealership checked for that when they replaced my clutch. They said everything checked out. It wouldn't be a bad idea to check again I guess.

I think I'll start simple and work my way up. Start with the tsbs and the bracket, then replace the fluid. I have a few ideas but I'm not an expert. I just want to be able to row through the gears again.