Crazy.8

So I had my car in the shop the other day for a routine oil change, brake pad change, and also had my driver door fixed cause the damn thing wouldnt open.

When I got the car back the clutch was very loose and soft right up to the catch point. I had to leave the next day to drive up to DFW for school and wasnt sure if it was a big deal or not. A couple days after getting to school the clutch started getting sticky and the pedal wouldnt decompress when compressed. A few drives after that and I literally cant get it to go into gear anymore. When the car is shut off I can get it into gear but when the car is turned on it wont budge. I put it into gear with the car off and turned it on just to see how that would work and the car started rolling forwards when the clutch was fully engaged, so it seems as if its slipping.

Im leaning towards master clyinder or slave cylinder, or maybe the lines just need to be bled? Any help is appreciated! I'm having it towed to a shop today but would like a slight idea of what it might be first.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like the clutch isn't fully disengaging.

Your whole symptom set has 3 possible options, and all 3 symptoms can exist for all 3 problems.

1) Hydraulic failure. Includes contaminated fluid, master cylinder, or slave cylinder. Basically the force on the pedal is no longer being transfered to the release fork to move the clutch enough, so the clutch doesn't fully disengage.

2) Clutch pedal assembly failure. Common, 8yr 100k warranty on the pedal assembly, or cheap welded option from BHR if you aren't covered there, or any shop can do the welding on your existing pedal provided it hasn't been permanently mangled. A pedal failure may not be obvious to a shop unless they get in there and inspect it closely by hand. Failures here can take on a large number of manifestations, including the symptoms you describe. Random clutch issues when everything else checks out fine usually gets traced back to the pedal assembly. However, properly inspecting the pedal assembly is free, and easy. It's just usually overlooked.

3) Burst clutch disc. Basically when the clutch disc material separates from the backing plates and stuffs a whole lot of shredded fiber all through the pressure plate, preventing it from ever full disengaging. This is easy to verify by pulling the starter and looking into the bellhousing through the hole where the starter mounts. If there is shredded material everywhere, the clutch has burst. I had this happen, and only pulled the starter after replacing all the clutch hydraulics.

So basically, have the shop inspect the pedal assembly first, then pull the starter to check for a burst clutch. If both of those are fine, then it's the hydraulics. Otherwise, you have found the problem.

Keep in mind that it is possible that driving on a partially engaged clutch from either a hydraulic or pedal assembly failure can lead to a burst clutch disc from the heat, so you may have more than 1 problem at this point. Failures cascade fast with this car.

Wolfe

iTrader: (1)

O.. I have basically the same issue. I just revived a thread about something similar from two years ago. My bad.

Here is what I posted.

"I am having a similar issue. Driving the car along one day nice and easy and all of the sudden it did not want to shift gears. I could only shift by rev matching.

Got the clutch master cylinder changed and bled multiple times. Now it does not want to shift above 4k rpm. But it feels fine under that. Dealership says it could be slave cylinder internal failure.

Any ideas why this would be happening? There are no symptoms of clutch slippage. They are saying im getting full range of motion as far as movement to disengage clutch.

Any advice on where to go from here?

Sorry about the revival, but this is the closest thread I could find to my issue."
....

That being said, before I changed the Master Cylinder, It had failed, and was leaking in the firewall. Before I changed it, it would barely change gears until it wouldn't change at all. I just don't understand how it can change gears easily at low rpm, but not at high rpms. I hope it not a trans issue.
__________________

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Did you read my response? Your post doesn't sounds like you did.

Wolfe

iTrader: (1)

I did. It just didn't seem like it answered my question.

I will look into the burst disc, but the car is still drivable with no slipping.

edit: I also replaced my clutch pedal last year, and I will look into seeing if it can be adjusted.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

You said it was the same problem, which would have the same answer. Then saying "well, it actually isn't the same problem" means you would just be derailing the thread for your own issue which is off topic.



Forget his clutch slipping comments. Slipping is traditionally used to refer to when a clutch is supposed to be engaged, but it isn't. His problem, and your problem, are the reverse. The clutch is supposed to be disengaged, but isn't.

If it isn't disengaging when it is supposed to be, then the problem is one of the ones i listed.

Wolfe

iTrader: (1)

Well a similar problem. It started out the same way and I had the same symptoms, until I got the Master Cylinder replaced. Now it has evolved into a new issue. I figured he might run into the same issues I am having. I think its still on topic for now.

On a side note, I am grateful for all of your help on this forum. I have had many questions answered by you by your threads before I bought the car and over the time I have owned the car. It makes me feel bad that I am bothering you.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Not bothering, just if you tell me that it's the same problem, but ignore the same solution, it's a bit confounding

Pull the starter and look for evidence of a burst clutch.

Wolfe

iTrader: (1)

Will do.

I have been hearing talk of worn out pressure plate as well causing not full disengage.

Thoughts on this and if an internal slave cylinder failure is possible as well?

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

I've never seen a case where the pressure plate itself is what failed, since it's basically just a lever.



If the problem is that the force from your foot isn't being applied to the hydraulics, then it's a pedal assembly problem.

If the problem is that the pedal movement isn't being transmitted to the clutch pressure plate to move it far enough off the disc, then it's a hydraulic problem, which includes fluids, master, or slave.

If the problem is that the pressure plate is moving far enough, but still isn't disengaging, it's a clutch disc problem.


Messing with the salve cylinder is a complete PITA because of room and angles. And you will have to reach up past the starter to replace it anyway, so just pull the starter first.

Speaking from experience here. I spent hours replacing my clutch master and slave, only to still have a clutch that wasn't disengaging, and only then did I pull the starter to see the shredded remains of the clutch disc. Pulling the starter would have saved me the costs of parts, the time spent waiting for the parts to arrive, and the time spent messing with the hydraulics.

If your bellhousing is clean, you know you won't have to deal with a transmission pull and clutch replacement. If it's got clutch disc material all over the place, then you know that is what it is, and you won't waste time with other stuff.

Checking it out is easy and free.

Wolfe

iTrader: (1)

I will do that today. I pray its not the clutch.

EyeKyu

Is the clutch or the pressure plate, just get a ne e clutch kit and that will take care of your problem. I had the same problem, not going in gear unless rev matching, witch I'm pretty good at since I'm a truck driver, and my pressure plate was missing a teeth. Got a new clutch kit problem solved.

Wolfe

iTrader: (1)

Turns out my cars pressure plate was missing a tooth. It was just flying around inside causing the weird sometimes it works, sometimes it doesn't. Replaced the slave cylinder and clutch line as well just to have it done. Put a new ACT clutch kit in. Feels good now. Takes some getting used to.