kingsina420

iTrader: (1)

Alryt i was searching all over the thread and cant find the answer....my starter fried and i ordered another one from autozone so this will be my

second one...can u guyz let me know if something could have short circuited? the car has 54,000 miles changed battery/coil/spark plugs last year

EDZRIDE

iTrader: (1)

How did you "kick start" it?

StormyWankel

Think he meant push start...

kingsina420

iTrader: (1)

yeah push start my bad but that was after the starter fried and the only way to get the car starting

kingsina420

iTrader: (1)

i realized that something myt be shorting out the starter but can not figure out wat it could be any ideas of wat to do? where to check first to fix the problem?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Why do you think the starter is fried?
Have you taken it apart and tested it?
Have you verified you are getting a constant 12V from the battery to the starter?
Did you verify the starter solenoid is getting energized when the key is turned to 'start'?

DefinitiveDetour

I thought my starter fried and took it to the dealer.

Bad Connections.

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Connection to the battery?

kingsina420

iTrader: (1)

i have tooken the starter apart and the cable on the starter was fried (this was not my orginial starter) the orginial one also went but not like this one...i checked wit my cobb while my car was on the volt and it was readin 13.9.....and how will i know if the starter solenoid is getting energized???

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I see you modified your 1st post...

We just had someone else order one from Autozone and had problems with it.
They told him it was the upgraded starter, but the part number he gave was the original weaker starter.

Do you know how to use a meter?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

A fried cable would be outside the starter (connects between the motor and solenoid).
You would have no reason to take the starter apart then.

kingsina420

iTrader: (1)

yeah cuz it was too long of a story and i dont think no one is goin to sit here and read all about it...and yeah i have a meter i forgot to use it to check ill do tht but ummm...i really hate it to be a circuit tht will cause my second starter to fry

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Refer to the pick below.
The connection with the white cover is your constant 12V from the battery (ALWAYS ENERGIZED)
The cable below it connects the solenoid to the motor.

The smaller connection to the left of both of those is the signal voltage when you turn your key to 'start'
This activates the "switch" in the solenoid and allows current to continue to the motor.

Verify all these connections first. It'll help narrow down if the issue is with the starter or the current going to the start.

kingsina420

iTrader: (1)

yeah the cable on the solenoid to the motor fried on my previous one...i installed this one and its taking a while to crank but sound like its not getting enough juice could possibly be the battery i will deff check....but im still confused on how the wire just fried up

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Just curious... when you took your starter apart, did you check everything like the pinion gap, brush length, armature, and commutator?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Did you get the upgraded starter?
The original starters are known to be weak.

And measure the voltage at the battery with your meter.
Should have ~12V with the car off and ~14.4V while its running.

kingsina420

iTrader: (1)

lol oh i never took the starter apart like that i only took it out of the car...im sorry i got the wrong interpretation but no i never took it apart like that

kingsina420

iTrader: (1)

imma have to get another meter my current one is broken but cant i check it with the AP?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I trust a meter more... but that's just me.
Call me old fashion!
That would be an easy test to do... verify the AP matches what I measure at the battery.
I might just try that.

kingsina420

iTrader: (1)

true the cobb showed 12.5 while the car was off wen the car was on it showed 13.9...i would check wit a meter but mine is broken

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

You'll need a meter anyway to check the voltage at the starter
Check both the constant voltage and the one going to the solenoid from the relay.

kingsina420

iTrader: (1)

okay and if they are not getting energized that indicates its time to change battery correct? and i still dnt know how my started just fried up could it possibly be because of the battery? btw thnx for all the advice jon

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

Depends on the connection you are measuring.
Remember, one is coming from the battery and the other is coming from a relay.
Depends on if you measure anything unusual in one of these circuits.
If they appear fine, then its something within your starter.
Also keep in mind if the connection to the batter is loose, it'll cause issues too so it may not be a bad battery.

kingsina420

iTrader: (1)

all my connections are tightened and i have an optima battery and im goin to put that in there to see wat happens...if not the what should i do to see if its the relay should i switch it wit the head relay?

Jon316G

iTrader: (1)

I think you need to check the connections at the starter instead of blindly going around the car.
This will help point you in the right direction.

And a new battery *may* help out, but won't fix the problem IF its a weak starter.
Here is a video I made while testing this theory with a local:
http://www.vimeo.com/3653485