I'll make this as short as possible, nobody wants to read too much:

-Drove in the rain, heard a pop and car died, I push-started while it was moving and came back on, but it was going bananas so I pulled to the side. ECU threw a P2070 Intake Manifold Tuning (IMT) Valve Stuck Open. Would crank but not turn over at all. Had to tow it home.

-Removed and cleaned SSV valve per Jon's video. That thing looked absolutely awful and it was getting stuck, it had been a while since I wanted to clean it but now I had a reason to.

-Had to deflood the engine after the install.

-Car turned on as usual after a deflood. I let it idle for about 5 minutes, everything seemed fine, idled okay, no weird noises, etc. Eventually it shut off. Figured it was normal.

-Turned it on again, wouldn't idle, had to keep giving it gas to stay alive. Car sounded weird, as if one rotor wasn't firing. Raspy and deep.

-Checked all plugs for ignition, all of them ignite.

That's when I heard something weird:

If I had the rear rotor plugs off, but the front in, the engine would sound a certain way when cranking. When I took the front rotor plugs off, and put the rear plugs in, it sounds completely different. Car won't turn on at all anymore.

I recorded the sounds:


Does it sound like the front rotor could be missing an apex seal or is that a normal sound?

 

Oh yeah, I'm going with your rear rotor is toast.
It should sound just like the front rotor does


Sorry, my condolences

 

So I have it backwards?
I thought the front rotor is the one sounding weird while the rear one sounded normal.

 

You want to hear/feel the "puffs" coming out of the spark plug holes.
I would agree with wcs and say the rear rotor sounds like it doesn't have compression (as long as the rear/front labeled caption in the video is correct).
If you don't feel the puff of air coming from the spark plug holes, then you lost compression in that chamber.

 

Makes sense.

So we could say this is a good way to test for catastrophic failure in one of the rotors?