wrightcomputing

iTrader: (5)

I was driving home today and the clutch pedal snapped. I know this is a common issue and fortunately it only snapped on one side allowing me to still get the car home.

I removed the clutch pedal and welded the snapped side of teh bracked and also seam welded most of the bracket so it is stronger than when it came out o the factory. I adjusted the clutch pedal and everything it nice and solid

However when I tried to start the engine it would not start. Just like when the clutch is not depressed. There are 2 connectors on the clutch the one indicated when the clutch starts to be pressed and it usually pressed. The 2nd is where the clutch is fully depressed the switch is then pressed. I made sure both were connected.

I also pulled the batter for 30 seconds and the car still would not start. Has anyone heard of this issue before? Is there a fuse that affects these switches. Is there any way to bypass these switched such as just shorting out the cable. I guess not as there are 2 switches involved.

As a side note it is the Dixie tour this weekend and I need to leave on Thursday so really need to get this fixed ASAP. As always any help is always appreciated.

GK1707

iTrader: (10)

There's a neutral safety switch under the pedal. It has a gray plunger. Makes sure its extended out all the way. You'll hear it click a few times when you pull it out. That's most likely the problem. Happened to me when I removed the pedal to install the reinforcement bracket.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

It's probably just that the plunger on the clutch interlock switch isn't getting pushed in far enough. There isn't much tolerance for it to be off of "full in".

Do you have any strips of aluminum laying around? If so, you can bend it into a C shaped bracket of the right size (trial and error) and snap that around the switch to hold the plunger in, doesn't even have to be installed in the pedal assembly to do this. I did this for a while when my replacement Exedy Stage1 clutch was acting up immediately after install and I could get the pedal adjusted to anywhere workable. I also have it on both my prior Miata and my current one to bypass it permanently. (saves thrust bearing wear on startup with a heavy clutch if you can keep the clutch engaged)

Alternatively, since it's temporary, you can do what did before making that bracket, and make sure the transmission is in neutral, then reach down with your left hand and hold the plunger in while you crank the engine. It's easier to reach while sitting than it may seem.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Yep.

logalinipoo

Any Idea of that switch part number? I've tried to buy a couple but always get the second switch that rotates into position. Mine has been broken for 8 years or so and has a paperclip in it.

wrightcomputing

iTrader: (5)

Thank you so much guys that was exactly the problem. I was actually able to bend the metal plate that is already on the pedal to allow the plunger to be fully compressed and voila the car starts :-)

GK1707

iTrader: (10)

Good to hear bud.