Secondary air injection solenoid valve
 

First off, I did a search to see if I could find a thread that already explains this, I wasn't able to find what I was looking for. Sorry if I missed it.

My girl recently took her RX8 to the dealership, her engine light was on and the reason for it, according to the technician the looked at it is;

"CHECK ENGINE LIGHT IS ON. INSPECTED AND FOUND SECONDARY AIR INJECTION SOLENOID VALVE TO BE FAULTY. P2259."

The cost to replace and have the work done was just under $550.00. I felt that is way to much. I was able to find a manual to do the work myself on the car; and it looks fairly simple. However, where can I find this valve??? There must be somewhere other the dealership, because I know that is going to be pretty expensive if I'm picking it up there.

If anyone could help me out with this, I would greatly appreciate it!

- Alex

You'll first need to remove the UIM (upper intake manifold) to reach it.
Its the black plastic piece after the throttle body.
Here is a DIY on how to remove that:
https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=upper

Then you'll see three solenoids stacked vertically.
The top solenoid is for the air injection.
Attachment 177556 Attachment 177557

Awesome, thank you so much.

Any idea where I can purchase this valve? I think I understand how to change it, but I'd rather not pay the dealership so much for the part...

If you need to replace it (you may not need to!), check with mazmart.com, a vendor of these forums.
Also, onlinemazdaparts.com, finishlineperformance.com, etc

I may not need to replace it? What makes you say that? Sorry, I'm not nearly as experienced as some of you guys are...

These vendors stock the parts you think?

You can test the solenoid to verify that is the problem:
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-test-solenoid-190364/

Sometimes its just tarnished contacts within the electrical connector to the solenoid and simply cleaning them will take care of it.

$105 Mazda suggested retail, I can do $79 new OEM (Mazda 12 month warranty) or $40 used (6 Month Warranty).

If I can serve you, let me know.

Paul.

:bowdown: Everyone helping out, I appreciate it!

Mazmat... I am going to try to clean the valve, if that doesn't help, I will be contacting you to purchase one of these.

One other question,
Since the engine light has been on, the dealership says the solenoid valve is the only issue with the car. However, I have noticed that when I have the car out of gear, and I am sitting at a red light, it will begin to rev up to 2000 and then back down… Sometimes it will even drop to almost 0, and the car will shake as if it is about to stall, then bounce back up. Is this problem 1 in the same or something different?

Thanks again everyone!

start by cleaning your air filter, MAF sensor and Eccentric Shaft Position sensor.

You may have ran to low on fuel and the gas filter could be dirty. Cleaned that once thanks to a D.Y.I. (thank you very much) and noticed the slight increase and decrease in idle rpms stopped.

A question in reference to the solenoid, I had the P2260 code before and that had to do with the air solenoid. End up having to replace the three valves it controled. Now I just got the P2259 code for the Secondary Air Solenoid Low. Could it be the same issue, just a different valve?

Let me know how cleaning this works out for you, I've had the same engine code for about 4 months now and haven't noticed any adverse effects on the car. My impression was that this unit only kicks in when the car is warming up - whatever it actually does - and once the engine is warm it doesn't affect anything?

Any images or tutorials showing where all of this is on the forums that you know of? I'm going to give it a shot as soon as I have a free day.

Here are a couple of DIYs:

MAF clean DIY: https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...0&postcount=19

Air Filter Check/Change DIY: The air filter is gonna be a bit difficult to check/change the first time. The airbox is in there tight and it might be scary exerting as much force as you'll need to use just to get it out. You have to push forward on the box and lift up the bottoms(there are two legs in holes). Just check around the forums or youtube it.

ESPS clean: https://www.rx8club.com/showpost.php...40&postcount=4

ESS/ESPS is a little more cryptic to get to. It'll require you going under the car. You'll have to do some hunting for more pictures if you're still confused. The proper lengthy name is Eccentric Shaft Position Sensor. Check around in the mazda zoom zoom cleaner or seafoam DIY threads for tips on removing it to clean it.

I hope I'm saying this nicer than some of the other responses around here but searching will make your life a whole lot easier. :wiggle: I understand that you may not even know what to search for or how to go about finding what you need but practice makes perfect.

Hope this helps!

all I did was put "P2259" in the Search box and click the button

https://www.rx8club.com/showthread.p...ighlight=p2259

there were others

Can anyone help me figure what solenoid would be behind the front bumper? I had someone instal my rebuilt engine and there is a solenoid looking piece hanging underneath the car right behind the front bumper but it's not plugged into anything...help???

Port air bypass selonoid valve
 

According to my OBD2 reader, my port air bypass control valve is closed. I revved it and it doesn't open. Does anyone know exactly where this is?

P2269 to P0661
 

I am throwing a P2259 code for secondary air solenoid, I took it to a mechanic and he switched the electrical connector from the air pump to the SSV, the code then changed to P0661, he wants me to bring it back so he can change the solenoid. I'm thinking this means it's the electrical connector and not the solenoid itself. How do I go about checking that? And if cleaning the connector doesn't work, what next?

I'm not sure what you mean by "switched electrical connector",but if he switched the AIR and SSV solenoids and the problem travelled with the solenoid, its the solenoid. Not that uncommon.

Odds are it's the solenoid. You can replace it yourself if you have a socket wrench, 10 mm socket, u-joint and extension. The part is $10-$20 on Amazon (search for "K5T49090").

Ok so he changed the solenoid to the secondary air pump, and still having the same problem. The code changed to another code still referring to the secondary air pump. The car runs good at start up, it will drive fine, has plenty of power, until it gets hot, then it loses all power and eventually won't run at all until it cools back down. My catalytic converter is not getting any air, the code says secondary air pump but it is working, (sounds like a little vacuum cleaner at start up), could it be the check valve (ssv)getting stuck? I just put a new catalytic converter on the car because the old one burned up, the new one is burning up now, this mechanic doesn't know what he's doing so I'm trying to figure this out on my own. Can someone tell me what else could cause my catalytic converter to be getting so hot, or why it's not getting any air?

How old are the ignition coils and spark plugs? The number one killer of catalytic converters are failed ignition coils, and the number one killer of engines are bad catalytic converters. Soooo, yeah ignition coils are a good place to start. If they're older than 30k miles or unknown, replace.

It sounds like you have multiple overlapping issues, because the air pump is only active during cold start up. Once the engine is up to temperature it is off.

You may also want to get a compression test before investing any more money into it, so you know the engine isn't toast.

When it warms up and bogs down, is it difficult to restart while warm? If so that's a tell tale sign of low compression which implies a replacement engine.

Hi Paul,

I need to source a auxiliary air control solenoid / secondary air control valve for my Mazda RX8 2006 231PS - I am based in the UK - are you able to help with this part?

Thanks
Martin

Here you go, straight from Chairman Mao's £1 shop:

It says "EGR" but don't be fooled. It's the same type of solenoid used for the VDI, SSV, and SAIP.

Buyer beware: I've bought three of these Chinese knock-offs and two still work after a year.

So this is what I need if the diagnostic showed Secondary air injection solenoid failure?

So this is what I need if the diagnostic showed Secondary air injection solenoid failure?