justjim

I ran my RX8 at Sebring at an HPDE for the fifth time, but this was the first time in really hot weather. Having recently installed Progress sway bars I had hoped to drop my lap times but the temperature was 98 plus at the track and I think the heat kept my lap times up.

During midday the temp gage in the car moved from the normal 1 tick to the left (cold side) of center to 2 ticks right of center (hot side) after several laps of pushing the car hard. Does anybody know what 2 ticks to the right of center would be in actual coolant temperatures? I may have to get a gage cluster to keep track of engine temps.

Backing off a little brought the temps back down and turning on the heater allowed me to get back up to full speed and keep on running at normal temps. Needless to say it was hot in the cockpit. How many ticks to the right does it have to move to be a problem?

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

Never fear, Jedi is here!

It's tough to say exactly what your temperature was at '2 clicks' to the right but I can tell you (from experience) that the needle does not move AT ALL until you're at 230°F
Once that needle starts moving, you're already heat soaked and shouldn't be pushing the car much.

I highly recommend getting a gauge or using something like an AccessPORT to monitor those temps.
Have you done any cooling mods?

shaunv74

+1. Get either the racingbeat gauge kit or plug in a datalogger/AP to get real coolant temps. The dash gauges are little more than idiot lights and not useful at the track.

I typically see 190-200 at the track on a 85 degree day which is fine for our car. Track days tend to be better than autox for heat because you're at higher speeds and moving more air through the engine bay. Your worst enemy is siting idling.

justjim

Well I've been considering getting a Cobb AP more for the engine monitoring than the minor hp increase. What engine parameters does the Cobb allow you to monitor, and does it do it in real time or do I have to stop and download it? I don't really have any engine mods other than the Racing Beat inlet duct which doesn't do much except change the sound of the engine, and I removed 1 of the 2mass airflow screens.

No significant cooling mods either. I did raise the rear of the hood and remove the rubber hood gasket but I think I'm going to put it back as my data suggest that air always flows into the rear of the hood and it may actually be decreasing the flow throught the radiator by increasing the air pressure behind the radiator. I also opened up the vents behind the oil coolers a little. Swoope mentioned that the RB inlet duct might cut down on flow through the radiator, I don't know. My most significant cooling mod has been to turn on the heater and fry my *** at the track .

Jedi54

iTrader: (7)

the AP can monitor just about anything you'd want to know in Real-Time
- Water Temp, AFR, LTFT, STFT, Engine Load, MAF, etc etc.

If you're tracking your car often, you should look into the Mazmart Water Pump. It's much more efficient then the OEM.
If that isn't enough, then I would suggest an upgraded radiator such as the BHR.

shaunv74

Yeah. The cracking the hood on the back of the car is good for around town and <50mph but on a track day and high speeds you're right on the money that it starts sucking in air from the cowl and reduces flow through the radiator.

First thing is get a way to monitor your temps real time. The AP is definitely a good investment and will have many uses, but if all you are looking for is a way to monitor temps. it's expensive relative to a gauge cluster or straight datalogger.

G-ReX

My last track event (between 85-90 degrees with high humidity) I saw a peak of 221F at the end of my 4th session, with temps mostly in the 214-218 range that run. The first session each day stayed in the 190 range, then you can see the cumulative heat soak each session. I used an EFIDude data logger. It has to be downloaded after the fact. At the same event, wankelbolt had a ScanGauge that gave real time readouts. His also read and cleared codes (he cleared someone elses misfire CEL while we were there. I'm not sure how the logging function for that one works, but both are far cheaper than an AP if you aren't planning on tuning.

Now I have to work on my cooling. I'm going to check the seal around the radiator and probably expand the fender well oil cooler venting like you did. I need to work harder at keeping it below 8k when it gets hotter. I suspect a Mazmart water pump is in my future. Any idea of how much the RB duct increases temps? I'd hate to lose that. I know olddragger said there was recirculation swirl from the duct, but never heard how much of a problem it may have caused.

quazmosis

iTrader: (2)

I highly recommend the Mazmart thermostat and water pump. Great combo that might help you out.

09Factor

If I remember right 2 tick to the right = 236. Well on my 8 that is.

3/4's of the way to the right is 245-248

The Mazmart o2 pump is worth the money. Espically at higher RPMs (+4k) where the OE pump will cavitate.

Highway8

iTrader: (11)

Anyone who tracks there car or drives in 100 degree temps, needs to monitor coolant temps in real time. I use the MSD Dashhawk to monitor ECT, IAT, AFR and a host of other things, I have the RB guage pod with oil temp, oil pressure and vac/boost for when I go FI. You can datalog and realtime monitor up to 6 things at 1 time. You can also set it to flash a different color when you reach a pre-set temp (warning) and another color when you get even hotter. 85 degree track day I get 210-220 temps. No cooling mods installed yet, just an underdrive pulley and no plastec battery tray or intake tray under the hood. Battery is in the trunk and I have the Aem intake. I also have a vented hood. I never noticed a change in track temps with the hood but it cools off much fast without having to open the hood.

On the list of cooling mods is the mazsport pump (in my garage right now) and stat, BHR radiator, silicone hoses and evans NPG+ coolant.

If you are tracking in 90 deg + the car will get warm and it is best to keep the RPM's down. Even if you stay under 8500 RPM's it will make a difference. If you keep it under 8K it will probably be good for 100deg+ temps.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

sorry i could not connect during the run..

but a scangage 2 or dash hawk would be a good idea.

i did seven 10 min time attack runs last friday night. air temp was 97 just after dark..

i had no gauge movement..

mazmart rad, pump, and t stat for the win.. hope to data log this friday..

beers

quazmosis

iTrader: (2)

You could possibly run more water to coolant mix on the track as well. perhaps a 65/35 mix distilled water/coolant.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

my cooling mods( i also am running the pettit S.C):

1-Summit Racing cooler 21x 7 mounted down from the rear edge of the front bumper support feed by the return heater hose Cost $80.
2- drilled small hole in oem thermostat to insure constant primary coolant flow ( we have 2 coolant flow systems--the radiator and the heater)
3- remove front bucktooth(rotary symbol) --it does interfer with air flow.
4- mazmart water pump
5- 70/30 coolant water blend in the summer.
On high 90's day in the south east--track coolant temps never over 195-200.
street driving yesterday ambeint was 100F !!--coolant temps180- 185--idling in stop and go 190 or so. A/c was ON!
No prob with warm ups even on a 20 degree day.
I have been running this set up for over a year now.
Olddragger

Razz1

Why don't you tell them your secrect?

Beer in the radiator....

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

you got mazmart's rad too ?

*high five*

bse50

never saw temps above 100°C with 39°C temps.
Cooling mods:
open front grille, mazmart water pump, 60\40 coolant mix, "open" engine bay (AEM intake) and ghetto hood mod (plastic spacers).
Slightly cut oil radiators vents in the wheel arch.
The sports catalyzer and coils\tune help a bit too.

alan23

My cooling mods summary and track temp below
Normally I run 1 out lap (3.5min) + 3 hot lap (3min) + 1 cool down lap (3.5min)

Cooling Mod 1
1) Twin fin aluminium radiator
2) KS remap, fan turning on at 87C
3) KS front bumper
4) OEM oil cooler + Mazdaspeed oil cooler
5) Agip radiator coolant
6) Vented bonnet
Oil used: Greddy Trust F2 (15-50)
Virgin track day.....stupid me dun know can run so hot and rev frequently to 9500rpm
Defi peak oil is 137c and water is 120c........really scare the hell out of me.......

On seperate track day with cooling mod 1 + battery relocation (2)
Oil used: Idemitsu Fully Syn Rotary (10-30)
Now more conservative, only rev to 8500rpm
Defi peak oil is 116c and water is 107c

Recently with cooling mod 1 + battery relocation (2) + overdrive pulley (3)
Oil used: Idemitsu Fully Syn Rotary (10-30)
Just wanna test whether overdrive pulley work at high rpm range without cavitating, so rev to 9500rpm
Defi peak oil is 121c and water is 110c

CarAndDriver

Thanks Jedi. That was the info I was looking for tonight. I wanted to find out what the temp gauge on the dash was actually measuring. Not much it seems.

So from what it sounds like in normal operating, the needle is slightly left of center and if it starts moving its already a very hot temp and one should be concerned.

quazmosis

iTrader: (2)

^^^^ Yep that's how I think about it. Left of Center - fine. Starts moving right - bad. Past Center - Really bad.

Razz1

See if you can track when its 95 degrees or less outside.

Too much wear and tear when its hotter than that plus the tires melat right off the car.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

yea,

long story,

if anyone it this thread has a scangauge 2 or a dataloger of some sort. if you can lend it to me. let me know.

scantool went dead. but i think it is a usb to serial issue not the product...

need to data log the temps..

beers