So I searched on engine chattering/ticking/diesel/knocking/belt noises and I guess noises are hard to troubleshoot by reading.

At first I thought it might've been loose plug wires but they seemed to be fine(i doubled checked).

Then I thought it might be a belt noise or transmission since the noise went faster and louder with rpm so it must be related to something that spins/goes faster when the rpm goes up! but it went away for now after driving 10 miles or so but here are the video of before and after.

Bad noise(when I first started the engine)
bad noise - YouTube

10 miles after normal noise while idling
normal noise - YouTube

 

anybody? :/ all the other videos posted by others didn't sound like mine or their sound wasn't synced with rpm. The high pitched chattering went away and then came back so I'm pretty lost!!
Help pretty please?

 

Sounds like a squeaky pulley/belt to me

 

ooo Should I get the things you applied to the belts or just replace the belt itself?

 

I couldn't tell you...is it worse when the engine is cold?

 

no not really it just syncs with RPM so if I'm at 3000 rpm the sound is faster if i'm at 5000rpm its even faster! lol cold or warm doesn't have effect on it i don't think

 

Hmmm maybe you should take it to a mechanic to see what they think..you could also try spraying WD-40 or something similar on the pulleys while it's running to see if it makes a difference

 

sounds like an alternator bearing going out to me. take the belt off and i bet the noise goes away.

your noise is a squeak not a knocking noise like you described. bearings can also squeak when cold and failing.

 

yeah I sprayed wd40 and it's gone for now I guess it's alternator bearing because it does calm down a bit when it's warm. Is it possible to buy alternator bearing by itself?

 

probably but you'd need to disassemble it and take it to a bearing shop for measurements.

 

I figured that's what it was. gf has a BMW that had a bad pulley bearing, sounded similar. Get it looked at, don't want it to lock up on you

 

Hey man, I bet if you press the clutch pedal in just a little bit while it is idling like that the sound will go away The pedal probably just needs a quick adjustment.

Click on Clutch pedal adjustment.

http://foxed.ca/rx7manual/2003mazdar..._S01_0498.html

 

hehe sup 9k, but pressing on clutch doesn't make any difference in sound lol I mean clutch does make the different sound when pressed in/not pressed in but the sound in the video is consistent with/without clutch pressed in.

it's probably one of the "bearings" but I did find it odd that it went away sometimes when it's warm.

Oh and also my P0410 code popped up again even with air pump i bought from austin lol its not the fuse so I'm gonna need to find out what's causing the prob before I trade the car in :/

 

I noticed that green circle in the picture wobbles so I'm lost here do I replace the alternator bearings or the pulley belt or what!!

 

If it was wobbling, that definitely bad. Could the bolts for the pulley just be loose? If you're still getting P0410 then you either got a bad replacement or its a fuse/wiring problem.

 

which wiring should I be checking? this guy fixed his p0410 code by

"I did what you suggested, and followed the vacuum line back to the solenoid.
I took the upper intake manifold off, and about halfway thru the process, I noticed that the little vacuum hose connected to the box the solenoids are plugged into was disconnected.
I didnt know if I knocked it off while working on the intake manifold, or if it was off before, so I continued taking the manifold off to get at the solenoid.

I removed the solenoid, cleaned the contacts with electronics cleaner, and tested to ensure it worked (applied 12v to the solenoid, heard it click open and was then able to blow air thru it).

I put everything back together and started it up.
Now I have vacuum on the hose connected to the air control valve.
Im not 100% sure if the fix was cleaning the connections, or if that hose had somehow been disconnected, but I think the problem is now solved.
Assuming the CEL doesnt pop back up in a couple days.
Thanks very much for your help. It's much appreciated!"

I thought I was gonna have to do that too haha and I will check the bolts

 

The air pump code is likely a faulty actuator, it's common at that age. But you have to remove the UIM to replace it.

Also as we told you when you picked the car up, your engine mounts are toast. The noises you are hearing could definitely be related to that. There are so many things that need servicing/replacement on your car but it's not worth doing any of it if you are trading it in. Just trade the car in man, these issues will not make a difference on what you will get on trade in.

 

hm i thought I had to get rid of CEL to get it trade in lol

 

try moving the green circled pulley by hand, rocking it top to bottom and side to side seeing if there is any slop in the shaft. could be the water pump going out versus the alternator but i wouldn't start throwing parts at it just yet.

next i would remove the alternator belt and spin both the alternator and water pump by hand and see if you get a similar squeak out of either.

 

trade in won't happen till summer time so I don't want it to break down on me again! If it's something I can "clean" or "fix" myself for fair amount of money I don't mind doing it

 

I tried rocking them but it didn't really move it was pretty tight on there I will remove the belt next time(this time I just loosened it up and see if it was rocking back and forth)

I was gonna wait till I get a new belt before removing it and spinning to check the bearings.