tasex

I was told that i should check ever other time I get gas for the oil.
the only problem is i have no idea what i should replace the oil with!
I have no idea what the deal ship put in, and they will probably charge me an arm and a leg just for the bottle. I presume it would be bad to mix however, I still get free oil changes for the next couple years so i dont want that stuff to go to waste either.

What should i do guys? should i just add my own 5w20?

Socket7

Get a 5w-30 weight oil and use it. Everywere in the world but in the US, RX-8's get 5w-30.

greg985

just buy your 5w-30 and bring it to the dealership. Tell them you have the oil you want to use on your seat. Sleep well at night knowing your 8 is better protected

tasex

but for now what should i use to fill it? dip stick is saying its a bit low =/
i have no idea what the dealer ship put in >.<

Silver06

You ask and then answer your own questions...


The big, yellow cap on top of the engine says 5w-20.

The dealership puts in 5w-20

You should put in 5w-20.

Nubo

If you're determined to take advantage of the free oil changes, then ask the dealership what they use, and you can buy that brand/weight yourself for top-offs. They usually use a common oil like Castrol GTX, etc..

tasex

ty nubo
thats what i meant even if i put in 5w20 it wont match until i find out what the dealership is feeding my car =P ty for the answers guys i guess i still gotta make the phone call.

cajunrx8

Put in any good brand of oil, 5W-30 or above. What is your mileage?? Might just get them to change it if you are close to 3000 miles. JMO

tasex

yah im only at 2000, is gastrol gtx the way to go?

04RX8man

5w30 will b fine even if they put in 5w20 then you would have like a 5w23 mixture or so if u add a qt.....GTX is the most liked on this forum i've used that and valvoline and like both....

ken-x8

You can top off with any brand, as long as it's API SL or better and is one of the viscosities people talk about in this forum. These days all oils that meet API specs are compatible with each other. Stick to name brands bought at reputable stores.

Castrol GTX is great. They sponsor John Force, so you're doing the world (as well as your car) a lot of good.

Ken

mazdaverx7

iTrader: (6)

i've used castrol gtx for years in my RX-7's with excellent results. i will continue to use it in my 05 RX-8. at this point though, choosing a proper oil filter is the next step. i'm a big fan of the oem mazda filters.

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

I'm pretty sure the OEM filters are just FRAM filters.

Grab a K&N HP-1010.

Socket7

the OEM filters are not FRAM. They're pretty well made in fact from the threads I've seen where people have cut them open.

TheWulf

iTrader: (4)

Well that's at least one piece of good news :P

The reason I recommend the HP-1010 is that it's a larger filter, and K&N is certainly reputable as far as filters go.

swoope

iTrader: (5)

meh,

they have a bolt on them..

beers

mazdaverx7

iTrader: (6)

this should help out. 7th post down:
http://www.rx7club.com/showthread.ph...ter+comparison

mazdaverx7

iTrader: (6)

and a post from Icemark from www.rx7club.com:

"Wix does not make the Mazda OEM filters.

Tennax and Denso are the most common manufactures of the Mazda OEM filters.

But note that Mazda specs the internal filter element, not matter who makes the filter, and typically it has twice to three times the filter area of most aftermarket filters (such as Fram or Purolator that are twice or three times the size of the Mazda filter).

Of course surface area is only one part of a filter, the pass through, end plate attachment (they should not be glued cardboard as found on 90% of the Champion/Fram filters), anti-drain back, and particle retention are all other factors.

Anti drain back valves should be silicon or siliconized rubber, not ABS (as found on some Fram and Champion heavy duty filters) for best seal (Mazda OEM specs have siliconized rubber).

A while back we asked "What filter is best filter for our Mazdas?"
We decided to check out some of the filters the old fashion way - by cutting them open.

Of the ones tested (Purolator - L14622, FRAM - PH6607, AC Delco - PF1237, Motorcraft - FL816, and stock Mazda OEM under 2.0 litr filter Nippon Denso manufactured filter)

Here is what we found.
In the group, the Mazda filter was the smallest - so we figured that is would have the least amount of surface filtering area. Boy were we wrong.
The Mazda filer had almost three times the amount of filtering area as compared to the biggest filter - the FRAM.

The Mazda filter had about twice as much as the Purolator and the AC Delco.
At the time the Mazda and the FRAM were the only two to have check valves (none of the others available now - including the Fram - have check valves of any sort).

So - who needs a check valve anyway? Well what the check valve does it force the filter to work as a filter. It also keeps the filter from back flushing which can happen with any sudden drop in oil pressure. The others, if they get a little clogged, or with a sudden drop in oil pressure, the filter stops filtering and is bypassed. The check valve in the Mazda filter prevents this from happening.
So - if you are out looking for a better filter - it probably hasn't been made yet. Someone would have to work pretty had to make a better filter then the Mazda filter - and they would have to make a hell of a lot of them to even come close to the price Mazda sells theirs for."