New engine won´t rev
11-29-2012, 06:21 AM
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New engine won´t rev - SOLVED
Hi, i fitted my rx-8 with an used engine, now the car starts normally, and idles, but doesn´t rev, it revs but it sounds like missfires.
The obd scanner tells me that there is something wrong with cylinder 1.
I have new sparkplugs, wires and coils. I also installed a new clutch.
Can the problem be the maf, o2 or the eccentric shaft censor?
CEL ERROR CODES:
P0301
P0410
P0172
P0000
P0300
U0073
---------------------------------------------
SOLVED, SOLUTION: INJECTOR CABLES WHERE CONNECTED WRONG
.
The obd scanner tells me that there is something wrong with cylinder 1.
I have new sparkplugs, wires and coils. I also installed a new clutch.
Can the problem be the maf, o2 or the eccentric shaft censor?
CEL ERROR CODES:
P0301
P0410
P0172
P0000
P0300
U0073
---------------------------------------------
SOLVED, SOLUTION: INJECTOR CABLES WHERE CONNECTED WRONG
.
Last edited by eltoffo; 12-05-2012 at 05:22 AM. Reason: Solved
11-29-2012, 06:27 AM
#2
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double check your plug wires. check to make sure you didnt crack a plug. reset the ess
11-29-2012, 06:59 AM
#3
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1. switch ignition to ON
2. press 20times on the break pedal within 8 seconds, turn off --->start
11-29-2012, 07:31 AM
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i mean make sure the wires are on the correct coils/plugs. did you label the injector connections when you removed the engine? i got a misfire once after changing my plugs. it ended up being cracked porclin on the new plug.
11-29-2012, 07:49 AM
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ok how about the injectors? many people have hooked them up wrong. idk if it would give you a misfire tho. is the ess clean, in the right position and reset?
11-29-2012, 08:03 AM
#8
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is there a scheme somewhere how the injectors need to be connected? How about the cat? I haven´t cleaned the ess, and by the reset you mean the 1-2step i told earlier? If so the ess is reset.
11-29-2012, 08:08 AM
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yes thats the reset i mean. cleaning it is easy, just wipe it off. i remember someone had problems because their ess was bent or something like that. the injector diagram i dont have but i know its on this site. iirc 9k recently asked for it or he posted it.
11-29-2012, 08:15 AM
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11-29-2012, 08:41 AM
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no i was refering to the connectors on the injectors. im not an expert on this so hopefully someone that knows more than me will chime in
11-29-2012, 09:15 AM
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Can you define "won't rev"?
A) Stumbles and breaks up, preventing the revs from increasing past a general area
B) Hits a hard limit like the 9k fuel cut, only much lower
C) Throttle pedal has no effect and revs remain at idle
D) Will rev through the whole range in neutral, but has trouble doing it
E) Something else?
Is there a difference between when it is in neutral vs driving under load?
A) Stumbles and breaks up, preventing the revs from increasing past a general area
B) Hits a hard limit like the 9k fuel cut, only much lower
C) Throttle pedal has no effect and revs remain at idle
D) Will rev through the whole range in neutral, but has trouble doing it
E) Something else?
Is there a difference between when it is in neutral vs driving under load?
11-29-2012, 09:26 AM
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11-29-2012, 09:27 AM
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Can you define "won't rev"?
A) Stumbles and breaks up, preventing the revs from increasing past a general area
B) Hits a hard limit like the 9k fuel cut, only much lower
C) Throttle pedal has no effect and revs remain at idle
D) Will rev through the whole range in neutral, but has trouble doing it
E) Something else?
Is there a difference between when it is in neutral vs driving under load?
A) Stumbles and breaks up, preventing the revs from increasing past a general area
B) Hits a hard limit like the 9k fuel cut, only much lower
C) Throttle pedal has no effect and revs remain at idle
D) Will rev through the whole range in neutral, but has trouble doing it
E) Something else?
Is there a difference between when it is in neutral vs driving under load?
I have to get back to you tomorrow, but I think it´s A, i´m not sure so i´ll check tomorrow witch my mechanic
11-29-2012, 09:32 AM
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If you confirm that it's A, make sure you know what RPM area it's breaking up at and won't go past. If it's in the ~3,000rpm range, ask if he keeps it there for ~10-15 seconds, will gas start dripping from the tail pipes? This is one possibility when the MAF isn't reporting information to the ECU, either due to being unplugged, damaged, or wiring damaged. The engine starts flooding out from adding crazy amounts of fuel.
11-29-2012, 09:46 AM
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If you confirm that it's A, make sure you know what RPM area it's breaking up at and won't go past. If it's in the ~3,000rpm range, ask if he keeps it there for ~10-15 seconds, will gas start dripping from the tail pipes? This is one possibility when the MAF isn't reporting information to the ECU, either due to being unplugged, damaged, or wiring damaged. The engine starts flooding out from adding crazy amounts of fuel.
11-29-2012, 09:54 AM
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Compression test is really the only way. However, compression affects low rpm before high rpm, or the problems are more pronounced at low rpm than high rpm, so compression doesn't sound like it's your problem here. Not to say you don't also have a compression problem, but I seriously doubt it's causing your specific rev problem.
11-29-2012, 10:05 AM
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Compression test is really the only way. However, compression affects low rpm before high rpm, or the problems are more pronounced at low rpm than high rpm, so compression doesn't sound like it's your problem here. Not to say you don't also have a compression problem, but I seriously doubt it's causing your specific rev problem.
11-29-2012, 10:10 AM
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That could be anything just about, including just fuel trims being completely reset.
From my own experience with engine replacements, the most likely culprits are just something not hooked up right, usually a grounding point or a sensor, or similar connection points hooked up backwards.
It might be something else of course, but it's usually something quite 'obvious' once it's found (but drives you nuts until you find it)
From my own experience with engine replacements, the most likely culprits are just something not hooked up right, usually a grounding point or a sensor, or similar connection points hooked up backwards.
It might be something else of course, but it's usually something quite 'obvious' once it's found (but drives you nuts until you find it)
11-29-2012, 10:19 AM
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That could be anything just about, including just fuel trims being completely reset.
From my own experience with engine replacements, the most likely culprits are just something not hooked up right, usually a grounding point or a sensor, or similar connection points hooked up backwards.
It might be something else of course, but it's usually something quite 'obvious' once it's found (but drives you nuts until you find it)
From my own experience with engine replacements, the most likely culprits are just something not hooked up right, usually a grounding point or a sensor, or similar connection points hooked up backwards.
It might be something else of course, but it's usually something quite 'obvious' once it's found (but drives you nuts until you find it)
11-29-2012, 10:51 AM
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That sounds like a fuel and/or spark delivery problem (hardly news though).
Some thoughts:
- validate that the coil harness is plugged into the coils in the right order. Reversing the harness would change what the ECU thinks it's firing and when
- check for a fraying water pump/alternator belt, as frays could be hitting the ESS randomly and randomly screwing up the ESS signal (had this happen before on a different car)
- verify that the engine block ground is clean and secure
- verify that all 4 plugs are still in good condition. They have been known to crack on installation sometimes, though less of a concern if the plugs were installed before the engine was put in
- verify that the injector harness plugs are plug into the correct fuel injectors and something isn't swapped accidentally
Some thoughts:
- validate that the coil harness is plugged into the coils in the right order. Reversing the harness would change what the ECU thinks it's firing and when
- check for a fraying water pump/alternator belt, as frays could be hitting the ESS randomly and randomly screwing up the ESS signal (had this happen before on a different car)
- verify that the engine block ground is clean and secure
- verify that all 4 plugs are still in good condition. They have been known to crack on installation sometimes, though less of a concern if the plugs were installed before the engine was put in
- verify that the injector harness plugs are plug into the correct fuel injectors and something isn't swapped accidentally
11-29-2012, 11:31 AM
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