New engine from mazda, engine power coming on in what feels like switches..
07-23-2012, 01:05 PM
#26
what you need to do is take very clear detailed pictures of your engine bay and where the oil filter is located.
Then you need to call mazda national headquarters and tell them that you have spent allot of money on this car and need to find a competent service center. You need a free diagnostic and compression test performed.
Side note... I have no idea where you would find a rod in a rotary engine. You might find some bolts, and some seals, a few valves in the intake manifold. But there are no rods... At all ever.
Then you need to call mazda national headquarters and tell them that you have spent allot of money on this car and need to find a competent service center. You need a free diagnostic and compression test performed.
Side note... I have no idea where you would find a rod in a rotary engine. You might find some bolts, and some seals, a few valves in the intake manifold. But there are no rods... At all ever.
07-23-2012, 01:17 PM
#27
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Wait.... you paid for the replacement engine? Mazda offered an 8 year, 100,000 mile extended warranty on engines which failed a compression test. Was yours past the date/miles? If not, the engine should be essentially free.
Engines provided as replacements under warranty were nearly always remanufactured ones. And always Series I engines. Which is why people here are confused as to what you received.
Engines provided as replacements under warranty were nearly always remanufactured ones. And always Series I engines. Which is why people here are confused as to what you received.
07-23-2012, 01:27 PM
#29
It's a completely different engine, there's an added 3rd oil injector per housing. All your old components like your ECU, etc will not work with it, you can't just swap an S2 Motor an in S1 car plug n' play.
You're so oblivious, I think 3 people have already told you, you have a re-manufactured engine from Mazda. Check your receipts and look up the part # online...
If you honestly still think you have an S2 Engine, just read this. https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-te...s-i-ii-161665/
07-23-2012, 01:42 PM
#31
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Stop putting it in your head you have a gen 2 engine you don't.
It's a completely different engine, there's an added 3rd oil injector per housing. All your old components like your ECU, etc will not work with it, you can't just swap an S2 Motor an in S1 car plug n' play.
You're so oblivious, I think 3 people have already told you, you have a re-manufactured engine from Mazda. Check your receipts and look up the part # online...
If you honestly still think you have an S2 Engine, just read this. https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-te...s-i-ii-161665/
It's a completely different engine, there's an added 3rd oil injector per housing. All your old components like your ECU, etc will not work with it, you can't just swap an S2 Motor an in S1 car plug n' play.
You're so oblivious, I think 3 people have already told you, you have a re-manufactured engine from Mazda. Check your receipts and look up the part # online...
If you honestly still think you have an S2 Engine, just read this. https://www.rx8club.com/series-ii-te...s-i-ii-161665/
It's not the answer he's looking for.
What's wrong with you guys? For real.
07-23-2012, 01:43 PM
#32
Thats why I told him to take a picture of where the oil filter was....
That was we could be 100% sure.
I mean there was that guy that had a 4 port swap into his 6 speed trans. I was like, NO WAYYYYYY, then he showed pics and I was like 0_0.
So anythings possible man!
That was we could be 100% sure.
I mean there was that guy that had a 4 port swap into his 6 speed trans. I was like, NO WAYYYYYY, then he showed pics and I was like 0_0.
So anythings possible man!
07-23-2012, 03:04 PM
#33
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I still say he should have them run the valves and check his rod bolt torque.
It's common knowledge that floating the valves at high rpm - 9000 EEK!! - will cause loss of power AND rods with their caps mistorqued out of spec are definitely going to
Vibrate.
As for whoever wrote that our engines don't have rods a few posts up... That's just wrong. Quit ****** with the guy. I mean, come on. No rods? Wtf holds the rotors in then? Duhh.
It's common knowledge that floating the valves at high rpm - 9000 EEK!! - will cause loss of power AND rods with their caps mistorqued out of spec are definitely going to
Vibrate.
As for whoever wrote that our engines don't have rods a few posts up... That's just wrong. Quit ****** with the guy. I mean, come on. No rods? Wtf holds the rotors in then? Duhh.
07-23-2012, 03:51 PM
#34
I still say he should have them run the valves and check his rod bolt torque.
It's common knowledge that floating the valves at high rpm - 9000 EEK!! - will cause loss of power AND rods with their caps mistorqued out of spec are definitely going to
Vibrate.
As for whoever wrote that our engines don't have rods a few posts up... That's just wrong. Quit ****** with the guy. I mean, come on. No rods? Wtf holds the rotors in then? Duhh.
It's common knowledge that floating the valves at high rpm - 9000 EEK!! - will cause loss of power AND rods with their caps mistorqued out of spec are definitely going to
Vibrate.
As for whoever wrote that our engines don't have rods a few posts up... That's just wrong. Quit ****** with the guy. I mean, come on. No rods? Wtf holds the rotors in then? Duhh.
As the professional and master troller of RX-8 club I have the right to remove this right for anyone.
07-23-2012, 04:41 PM
#35
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A few things, if the dealer ship told you you got a S2 engine then they are either mistaken or BSing you either way it's a red flag to avoid that dealership. Also the odds are very high that your "new" engine is not in fact new but a Mazda re-manufactured engine which the dealership may have tried to pass off as being a new engine.
If it is a re-manufactured engine they have been known to sometimes be bad right out of the gate, some have also been stellar it's really hit and miss.
Also how many miles did you put on the new engine before you started redlining it? You need to properly break in a new engine and if you ran it hard right from the start you may have damaged it.
Basically what you need to do is the following that was already posted:
If you post that picture we can tell you which engine you have then call Mazda and do the above. A compression test will tell you the health of the new engine you got and will serve as a good starting point to troubleshoot exactly what is going wrong as the problem could be the new engine itself or some other defective part that wasn't replaced as a part of the engine swap.
If it is a re-manufactured engine they have been known to sometimes be bad right out of the gate, some have also been stellar it's really hit and miss.
Also how many miles did you put on the new engine before you started redlining it? You need to properly break in a new engine and if you ran it hard right from the start you may have damaged it.
Basically what you need to do is the following that was already posted:
What you need to do is take very clear detailed pictures of your engine bay and where the oil filter is located.
Then you need to call mazda national headquarters and tell them that you have spent allot of money on this car and need to find a competent service center. You need a free diagnostic and compression test performed.
Then you need to call mazda national headquarters and tell them that you have spent allot of money on this car and need to find a competent service center. You need a free diagnostic and compression test performed.
07-23-2012, 08:30 PM
#36
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