Need serious help with emission's test.
 

Hi- I own a 2005 RX8, after shipping it from Hawaii to California, the car doesn't seem to be able to pass emissions tests. My mechanic states that it can either be my catalytic converter, or the ECU being reprogrammed. After installing a K&N Intake I have an extra valve I don't know how to deal with. I'm wondering if that valve is important, will post pictures in a few moments. I didn't connect to anything so I assumed it wasn't important... And stuff. Please someone with an RX8 help, because the mechanics I've spoken to seems to really not know anything about my car... Because the first thing he said was. Whoa this is a little thing with alotta power.

http://i368.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/DSC01483.jpg

http://i368.photobucket.com/albums/o...s/DSC01482.jpg

Make sure you drive the car for a long time before you take it in. I had a BMW that would always fail so I would have to drive it and get it nice and hot so it would pass. The other option is find a garage that will just pass you. Thats what happens in the UK if you know the right people, not sure if you can get away with it in the states.

I can do that- However I want to fix it so just in case. Nobody knows what it is?

i don't know what that part it I have the stock intake and have taken it appart and don't know what that piece is, my wife just took the car out. When she gets back I will see where that other cable connects that connect to your strange piece.

I believe all that stuff is for the VFAD

https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/help-vfad-trouble-177057/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/vfad-upgrade-138199/
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-do-yourself-forum-73/diy-removing-vfad-148881/

In a nut shell (not being from Cali) I do not think that having the VFAD removed will cause a emissions test to fail.
We have stiff emissions in Ontario and what fixed me up was a new Catalytic ....

Sorry dude but the CATS are known to fail .. .its common problem especially on the older models like ours

Thank you :)

How about you share with us what was the high readings on your emissions tests that caused you to fail?

Was it high NOx readings?
High CO readings?
High CO2 readings?
High HC readings?

Each one of those has a different cause.

High CO would be a failed cat.
High HC would be failed coils/ignition system/low compression.

BC.

WIll do. Here's a reading.

Here's what failed. The HC (( PPM) and NO ((PPM)) Here uploading picture.

http://s368.photobucket.com/albums/o...n/Car%20Parts/

The test includes NOX, HC and CO.

Below is very general info:

High everything means Cat. High Nox but everything else is fine means running lean. Possibly bad cat too. High CO is usually to much fuel causing incomplete combustion, will result in very low NOX. High HC is also incomplete combustion but caused from poor ignition and or low compression.

The nice thing about our car and most newer vehicles is that the ECU and OBD2 system will usually detect a problem and throw a code, however if you ahve a reflash that has leaned things out or advanced the timing, you may never pass without a stock tune.

Where in California are you? I know smog techs who work on rotarys.

BAD CAT!!!!

Your AFR is fine, you have very high Nox and HC but your CO is elivated too. But what makes it easy is that it is measuring oxygen menaing the cat is not working very well.

I am in SUnnyvale California, basically somewhere near SJ, and SF. So it may be the ECU reflash?

ECU Flash most likely is only going to lean things out and advance the timing during high load conditions and not on the dyno during a 15 MPH and 25MPH cruise test. It could however cause a cat to go out faster.

The Cat is covered under the 8 year 80K mile federal emmisions warrenty, so if you have less then 80K miles, go to a shop that can properly diagnose a bad cat and then go to the dealer to see if they will replace it. You might also tell the dealer that you suspect a bad cat, show them the emission numbers and see what they say.

OH SHIT FOR REAL!? OH DAMn. I CAN DO IT. And what if I brought the car out of state or if it's salvaged? ... Can you link me the law?

And I just wanted to say thank you so much for teaching me these things because I had no idea. And taking time off to help me. ^^;

Here is the info on the emissions warrenty: http://www.epa.gov/oms/consumer/warr95fs.txt

A few ways test a cat. One is to check pre and post temperature with an inferred pyrometer. The post cat temp should be about 100 degrees hotter. Another way is to actualy test the emissions pre and post by drilling a small hole pre cat to test the emissions. There should be a large drop in post cat emissions, if there isnt, then the cat is not working.

But just looking at the numbers, I would bet it is the cat. Like I said, everything is high but your AFR is fine and you have o2 remaining in the exhaust. A properly working cat will use all the available o2 to burn up the emissions.

In my experiance ( I have seen hundreds of failed smog checks with subsequent diagnoses and repairs), any time all 3 numbers are high, you need a cat. If the CAT is fine but you have elevated HC and CO, the NOX will be low. Many cars fail for Hgh HC and CO due to rich AFR and more ignition. Once fixed, the HC and CO come down, the nox spikes up and the cat has to be replaced.