Having a compression test done today and I've been searching for about two hours and can't find an exact answer. But I have read Mazda denies new motor replacement if too close to minimum Compression numbers.

Any input?

Will post results of test later.

 

Wait until after you have the results of your engine before you ask.
People will tell you to search first if you try and ask the very question you just did.

BC.

 

Failing is failing, passing is passing. If you are above the minimum you pass, if you are below the minimum you fail.

If you are below the minimum and the dealer says "not yet", then it is because they are lazy and don't want to do the paperwork, because dealers make quite a bit of money on engine replacements.

 

Rotor 1
6.5
7.2
6.7
@ 187 rpm

Rotor 2
7.4
6.7
7.3
@ 172 rpm

That's an awful starter. I'm replacing it Friday. But even with it not cranking at 250 rpm, both rotors still passed. Evidently, I have really good compression. And my hot start issue is most likely the starter.

On the way home though, I got a blinking check engine light at high rpms. Which I've read is a misfire. Is this because they didn't put the wires back on tight enough?

Oh and what's the usual cost of a compression test? They charges me $229
I thought I remembered reading so,etching around 100-120
Any thoughts?

 

229? Whoa, u got raped

I charge a few bux more of 1/10 of what u just paid

Honest dealership should charge u no more than an hour of labor to do a compression test

 

They said hour labor to remove the spark plugs. Then 120 to perform the test. I wasn't aware of anything I could do at the moment. So I just got pissed and paid.
Think Mazda USA will help me out if I call and bitch?

 

Dont think so, all dealers are indepently owned, this is not a warranty issue so there is little mazda can do

Only thing u can do is avoid this dealer for the rest of ur life and tell all ur friends even friends friend about it

2 dealerships in nyc gone out of business in the last couple of years, they rip so many ppl off, thats what they get at the end

 

Yes, your starter is clearly your issue. That being said, you got good confirmation that your engine is good to go

And $229 is overcharged. The most I've paid for it was $165 once, the other 3 times were free or under $110.

 

wow, I cannot believe they would charge you an hour's worth of labor to remove spark plugs. How in the world did they manage to bill you separately for the removal of spark plugs? That's obviously part of the compression test. Good grief, it's not that you are driving a car with a V12.

Anything below 6 would be a fail, and everything above 6 will a pass. That's the way it has been explained to me several times.

But there are other variables that need to be considered such as vacuum readings, altitude, cranking speed, condition of starter and battery, etc.

 

i sold him my spare upgraded starter even tho i wanted to have a back up but he needed it to get his 8 going. im hoping for good karma with the starter in my car

 

Thanks for all the input guys. I knew I was getting robbed. But as long as this starter fixes my car, I'll be satisfied.

And thanks again for the starter, 200.
Really helped me out.

 

np man glad to help an rx8er. let me know how you make out

 

I think my dealership is giving me the run around. I'm getting my compression tested at Select Mazda in Hamilton Ontario.

They tested it and told me it's making min spec, even though the starter is spinning at 150 rpm. The weird part about that is that he said they sent out the findings to Mazda Canada, and they told them that if they install a new faster/better starter, it might fail at the higher rpms. They want $380 CAD or so plus tax to put it in. That includes the new starter. Are they trying to force me to get a new starter, in hopes that the compression test. Does it make sense that the compression test would be sent to Mazda Canada? Would it be best to get the starter done through them?

helphelpheeeeeelp!


Also, should I make a new thread?

 

Changing the starter yourself is fairly easy. There is a DIY guide on here that walks you through it so well that a child could understand it.
I don't understand how if it made minimum specs cranking no where near where it was suppose to, but if you install the new starter it might fail? Did you write that correctly?

If that's the case, I'm all kinds of screwed. Although I was under the impression my compression was just fine.

 

You are fine with this thread. It is close enough to the same topic.

With a starter speed of 150rpm, you NEED a new starter. That isn't them giving you the run around or trying to make a money grab. You can find better priced starters, yes, but if you opt for one of those and turn down the dealer's quote, it won't change the fact that your starter is spinning at nearly HALF the healthy starter spin speed.

In theory, it shouldn't change your compression pass/fail, since there is a correction chart to correct for whatever starter speed the test is done at. But, if they say the engine isn't failing now, and right on the line, then a re-test might just bump it over into failing, and get you the engine, so i'd say it's worth it.

 

UPDATE: Put the new starter on today. Fired her up. Drove her around till she was warm. Got a car wash. Came home. Turned her off. Turned her back on 1st crank. NO MORE HOT START ISSUE!

Should probably get a new battery next paycheck. And shortly after that. BHR ignition kit.