Looking for A LOT of Help 2004 (im in Miami)
12-30-2011, 11:23 AM
#1
Newb now, Pro with time
Thread Starter
Looking for A LOT of Help 2004 (im in Miami)
Hey everybody!
To start I want to point out that new to fixing the car myself. But my car is about to break down and I really don’t want to sell my car. I love my car I wish I had the correct amount of money to fix all the cosmetic things. But before I get there I figure ask the experts. And I have always thought that fanatics are experts and I feel this is the right place to ask.
I brought my car to the dealer to have everything checked. I was told that I need to replace
Im also thinking of doing most of the work myself. However my knowledge of car repair going as far as an oil change, break replacement, battery replacement, and tire change. That’s all the mechanical work I have ever done myself to my car.
In an additional note I would love to have your guys input if you guys think if its time maybe just to give up on the car on sell it according to you guys personal experience on the car. My car currently has 87k miles.
To start I want to point out that new to fixing the car myself. But my car is about to break down and I really don’t want to sell my car. I love my car I wish I had the correct amount of money to fix all the cosmetic things. But before I get there I figure ask the experts. And I have always thought that fanatics are experts and I feel this is the right place to ask.
I brought my car to the dealer to have everything checked. I was told that I need to replace
PART NO.
DESCRIPTION
PART PRICE
N3H1-13-6B0C
THROTTLE BODY
N3Y3-20-55XA
CONVERTER CATALYTIC
N3H1-15-171
THERMOSTAT
N3H6-15-200D
RADIATOR
N3H1-18-140B
CORD SET
N3Y3-18-S30A
SPARK PLUGS
N3H1-18-100B
IGNITION COILS
N3H1-15-350
TANK, SUB-R
I was wondering if you guys can recommend me a good, reliable, cheap website or the exact link to every one where I can buy my parts. I went into eBay, and just Google all the parts. However some of them are universal, I don’t know how it is going to affect the life of the car, and I don’t want to kill my car. If I could and I want is to never sell my car. I love it. I think it’s the sexiest car.DESCRIPTION
PART PRICE
N3H1-13-6B0C
THROTTLE BODY
$577.06
CONVERTER CATALYTIC
$1,381.86
THERMOSTAT
$40.86
RADIATOR
$446.80
CORD SET
$99.32
SPARK PLUGS
$175.39
IGNITION COILS
$75.48
TANK, SUB-R
$216.27
$3,013.04
Im also thinking of doing most of the work myself. However my knowledge of car repair going as far as an oil change, break replacement, battery replacement, and tire change. That’s all the mechanical work I have ever done myself to my car.
In an additional note I would love to have your guys input if you guys think if its time maybe just to give up on the car on sell it according to you guys personal experience on the car. My car currently has 87k miles.
12-30-2011, 11:38 AM
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Scrap the dealer. We need more information of what your RX-8 is actually behaving like, what symptoms you are seeing, to really know what of those are required and what aren't.
Throttle Body:
I have heard plenty of dealers replacing throttle bodies, but I have never once seen it to be a justified replacement. Why did they add it to the list? Did you give them a symptom that might have prompted it?
Catalytic Converter:
That price is accurate, however you can likely find a used OEM cat for $300 or less through the classified section here. If you can avoid emissions sniff testing (not sure what is required in FL) you can put in a midpipe and either ignore the CEL or block it with an AccessPORT
Thermostat:
Why are they stating it needs to be replaced? The price is really low, but OEM failures are not common at all.
Radiator:
Why are they stating it needs to be replaced? The price is acceptable, but there isn't much of a reason to replace it unless there is a known issue or you are upgrading. The A/C Condenser sits in front of the radiator and protects it from rocks and such.
Cordset:
I've never heard plug wires called that. You can get them for more like $60-70. Try here for example: http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/prod...252d140B).html They are also carried by AdvanceAuto and Autozone for even less.
Replacing them is literally less than 10 minutes yourself.
Spark Plugs:
Plugs from nearly every non-dealer source is $20 each, $80 for all 4. The OEM plugs are carried by most autoparts stores now for the same price. Replacing them is a few extensions, an appropriate plug socket, a socket wrench, and 10 minutes of your time.
Ignition coils:
Coils are available from the same places as the wires and plugs above, Between $25 and $35 each, and you need 4. I'm betting that $75 is for 1 coil from the dealer. 2 might make it reasonable. 20 minutes with a 10mm socket in your driveway to replace.
Coolant Tank:
This is usually completely uneccessary. I'm guessing your tank sensor failed and have to replace the whole tank to get the level sensor replaced. Try looking for one from a junkyard, but that price isn't horrific.
For anything, Mazmart.com (Mazmart forum vendor ID here) can get you anything OEM for cheaper than a dealer. With your listed mechanical knowledge, none of this stuff is out of your ability at all, except perhaps the cat if yours is heavily rusted on.
Also, note that the ignition components (plugs, wires, coils) typically need replacing every 30,000 miles or so. Getting to know how to do it yourself turns a $800 - $1,300 dealer bill to $180-$250.
Labor doesn't appear to be listed for any of that, so it's even worse than the list looks.
Throttle Body:
I have heard plenty of dealers replacing throttle bodies, but I have never once seen it to be a justified replacement. Why did they add it to the list? Did you give them a symptom that might have prompted it?
Catalytic Converter:
That price is accurate, however you can likely find a used OEM cat for $300 or less through the classified section here. If you can avoid emissions sniff testing (not sure what is required in FL) you can put in a midpipe and either ignore the CEL or block it with an AccessPORT
Thermostat:
Why are they stating it needs to be replaced? The price is really low, but OEM failures are not common at all.
Radiator:
Why are they stating it needs to be replaced? The price is acceptable, but there isn't much of a reason to replace it unless there is a known issue or you are upgrading. The A/C Condenser sits in front of the radiator and protects it from rocks and such.
Cordset:
I've never heard plug wires called that. You can get them for more like $60-70. Try here for example: http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/prod...252d140B).html They are also carried by AdvanceAuto and Autozone for even less.
Replacing them is literally less than 10 minutes yourself.
Spark Plugs:
Plugs from nearly every non-dealer source is $20 each, $80 for all 4. The OEM plugs are carried by most autoparts stores now for the same price. Replacing them is a few extensions, an appropriate plug socket, a socket wrench, and 10 minutes of your time.
Ignition coils:
Coils are available from the same places as the wires and plugs above, Between $25 and $35 each, and you need 4. I'm betting that $75 is for 1 coil from the dealer. 2 might make it reasonable. 20 minutes with a 10mm socket in your driveway to replace.
Coolant Tank:
This is usually completely uneccessary. I'm guessing your tank sensor failed and have to replace the whole tank to get the level sensor replaced. Try looking for one from a junkyard, but that price isn't horrific.
For anything, Mazmart.com (Mazmart forum vendor ID here) can get you anything OEM for cheaper than a dealer. With your listed mechanical knowledge, none of this stuff is out of your ability at all, except perhaps the cat if yours is heavily rusted on.
Also, note that the ignition components (plugs, wires, coils) typically need replacing every 30,000 miles or so. Getting to know how to do it yourself turns a $800 - $1,300 dealer bill to $180-$250.
Labor doesn't appear to be listed for any of that, so it's even worse than the list looks.
12-30-2011, 11:54 AM
#3
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Thread Starter
I should have added the list of symptoms. So here they are.
*About a year, I was ordering food in the drive thru and then I saw the temperature needle go all the way up. I opened the door and I saw that there was coolant all over the floor. I brought it to the dealer in Tampa and they told that it was a fuse for the radiator fan. They replaced it and I was told that there were no leaks. However, a month after the red radiator light came on and has been on since. I brought it a regular mechanic and I was told that the sensor was dirty and that needed to be clean. Now this time around I was told by this new dealer in Miami (ocean mazda) that it was leaking. However, I have never seen the reserved tank move or I have never found coolant on the floor after the replace the fuse.
* The other problem that I have been having is that sometimes when I'm on a stop sign or a red light the car shots off. I have watched the RPM of the car and it drops below .5 and it turns off.
Consequently to that problem, I have felt the car lacking power. Sometimes when I'm on the freeway it feels like its going smooth and loses a bit of strength and it goes fine again, and it repeats again where it feels like it loses strength and goes smooth again. When it happens, it happens about every minute and it stops after a while. it can be 5 minutes or 10. And when this problem occurs its when the car shots off. when I get to a stop sign or red light.
Now something I did not mention is that I replaced the catalytic about a year or 2 ago.
I can take videos of the car or what not to get all the help that I can get. I honestly don’t have much money I just pay for my next semester of school.
Thanks again.
*About a year, I was ordering food in the drive thru and then I saw the temperature needle go all the way up. I opened the door and I saw that there was coolant all over the floor. I brought it to the dealer in Tampa and they told that it was a fuse for the radiator fan. They replaced it and I was told that there were no leaks. However, a month after the red radiator light came on and has been on since. I brought it a regular mechanic and I was told that the sensor was dirty and that needed to be clean. Now this time around I was told by this new dealer in Miami (ocean mazda) that it was leaking. However, I have never seen the reserved tank move or I have never found coolant on the floor after the replace the fuse.
* The other problem that I have been having is that sometimes when I'm on a stop sign or a red light the car shots off. I have watched the RPM of the car and it drops below .5 and it turns off.
Consequently to that problem, I have felt the car lacking power. Sometimes when I'm on the freeway it feels like its going smooth and loses a bit of strength and it goes fine again, and it repeats again where it feels like it loses strength and goes smooth again. When it happens, it happens about every minute and it stops after a while. it can be 5 minutes or 10. And when this problem occurs its when the car shots off. when I get to a stop sign or red light.
Now something I did not mention is that I replaced the catalytic about a year or 2 ago.
I can take videos of the car or what not to get all the help that I can get. I honestly don’t have much money I just pay for my next semester of school.
Thanks again.
Last edited by DungeonKeeper; 12-30-2011 at 04:21 PM. Reason: I dont revise anything when I type (bad habit)
12-30-2011, 12:10 PM
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Short story: I'd bet your engine is nearly dead from compression loss.
It's possible that this IS just ignition failure, and replacing the ignition components will resolve the issues, but with the overheating, it's probably the engine.
Why?
Overheating a Renesis engine to the point that the needle moves AT ALL is usually terminal damage to the engine. You are apparently lucky that it still ran at all, but it's likely that the housing warp was relatively low. This warping not only caused a loss of compression itself, but likely accelerated the seal wear due to improper clearances now. Loss of compression can have many degrees, as more compression loss exagerates these issues more, but it can manifest as power loss, stumbling power, and inability to hold idle (among other things)
It is possible that this is just ignition failure, if yours is worn out. They usually start failing around 30,000 miles from last change or so. It varies, but it's roughly accurate. Ignition failure dramatically accelerates cat failure, so it's possible your cat has failed again too. However, none of these symptoms listed really fit cat failure. Cat failure is usually a smooth block of power, high RPM only ,and never 'clears up', even briefly. This doesn't mean you don't have cat failure due to a failing ignition, but it's not your primary issue here.
However, before you do any of that stuff, locate the e-shaft sensor and hose it down with MAF cleaner ($7 per can). Get it clean, but don't hit it or anything. Then pull the negative battery cable for a few minutes. This clears the e-shaft sensor profile (as well as radio presets, fuel trims, DSC and TCS settings, etc...) You will have to reset a few things, but IF this is a simple e-shaft sensor being dirty and the profile shifting off ideal, then you have a really simple and clean fix. E-shaft sensor contamination and skewed sensor profile data can cause all of these issues as well. If you still have issues after that, then take your pick: An engine compression test at a dealer for around $120 or all new ignition for around $200 (replacing yourself).
If you opt for a compression test , then make sure you tell them, "I want a compression test." not "I have these issues, can you check the compression?" they will push you into the above list of items. Tell them what you want done first. If the results come back under spec then that is your issue. You are likely out of the 8yr warranty, but at least you wouldn't have dumped all that cash into other stuff to find out your engine is nearly dead and can't get a new one. If the compression is fine, then everything else is cheap and easy to fix
If you opt for ignition replacement, it's easy work, I can do all 12 components in under 20 minutes. DIYs on here. If that solves your issues then you just skated out from under a $4,500 bill for just ~$200. If it doesn't, then go for a compression test as mentioned above.
Lots of 8 owners in southern FL though, getting local help for the install stuff should only cost you some food
It's possible that this IS just ignition failure, and replacing the ignition components will resolve the issues, but with the overheating, it's probably the engine.
Why?
Overheating a Renesis engine to the point that the needle moves AT ALL is usually terminal damage to the engine. You are apparently lucky that it still ran at all, but it's likely that the housing warp was relatively low. This warping not only caused a loss of compression itself, but likely accelerated the seal wear due to improper clearances now. Loss of compression can have many degrees, as more compression loss exagerates these issues more, but it can manifest as power loss, stumbling power, and inability to hold idle (among other things)
It is possible that this is just ignition failure, if yours is worn out. They usually start failing around 30,000 miles from last change or so. It varies, but it's roughly accurate. Ignition failure dramatically accelerates cat failure, so it's possible your cat has failed again too. However, none of these symptoms listed really fit cat failure. Cat failure is usually a smooth block of power, high RPM only ,and never 'clears up', even briefly. This doesn't mean you don't have cat failure due to a failing ignition, but it's not your primary issue here.
However, before you do any of that stuff, locate the e-shaft sensor and hose it down with MAF cleaner ($7 per can). Get it clean, but don't hit it or anything. Then pull the negative battery cable for a few minutes. This clears the e-shaft sensor profile (as well as radio presets, fuel trims, DSC and TCS settings, etc...) You will have to reset a few things, but IF this is a simple e-shaft sensor being dirty and the profile shifting off ideal, then you have a really simple and clean fix. E-shaft sensor contamination and skewed sensor profile data can cause all of these issues as well. If you still have issues after that, then take your pick: An engine compression test at a dealer for around $120 or all new ignition for around $200 (replacing yourself).
If you opt for a compression test , then make sure you tell them, "I want a compression test." not "I have these issues, can you check the compression?" they will push you into the above list of items. Tell them what you want done first. If the results come back under spec then that is your issue. You are likely out of the 8yr warranty, but at least you wouldn't have dumped all that cash into other stuff to find out your engine is nearly dead and can't get a new one. If the compression is fine, then everything else is cheap and easy to fix
If you opt for ignition replacement, it's easy work, I can do all 12 components in under 20 minutes. DIYs on here. If that solves your issues then you just skated out from under a $4,500 bill for just ~$200. If it doesn't, then go for a compression test as mentioned above.
Lots of 8 owners in southern FL though, getting local help for the install stuff should only cost you some food
12-30-2011, 12:39 PM
#8
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send me a plane ticket and ill come down next weekend. its cold in pa. btw i have a spare tb if you really need one. i think i paid $100 for it used
12-30-2011, 12:40 PM
#9
Catalytic Converter:
That price is accurate, however you can likely find a used OEM cat for $300 or less through the classified section here. If you can avoid emissions sniff testing (not sure what is required in FL) you can put in a midpipe and either ignore the CEL or block it with an AccessPORT
That price is accurate, however you can likely find a used OEM cat for $300 or less through the classified section here. If you can avoid emissions sniff testing (not sure what is required in FL) you can put in a midpipe and either ignore the CEL or block it with an AccessPORT
Cordset:
I've never heard plug wires called that. You can get them for more like $60-70. Try here for example: http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/CORD-SET,-HI.-TENSIO-(N3H1%252d18%252d140B).html They are also carried by AdvanceAuto and Autozone for even less.
Replacing them is literally less than 10 minutes yourself.
I've never heard plug wires called that. You can get them for more like $60-70. Try here for example: http://parts.arlingtonmazda.com/products/CORD-SET,-HI.-TENSIO-(N3H1%252d18%252d140B).html They are also carried by AdvanceAuto and Autozone for even less.
Replacing them is literally less than 10 minutes yourself.
if you live close enough and get food or drinks or whatever, myself or other members in the area im sure wouldnt mind helping in our spare time. stop by the tread we have in the south east forum section we're (somewhat) active lol. (only a few of us regularly post, but all miami people)
12-30-2011, 12:43 PM
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If you expect rusted cat bolts then pro-tip:
go to the hardware store and grab a set of bolts (I can go into detail if needed), take the 8 to any small shop, pay them to put the car on a lift and replace all the existing bolts with yours. Takes them a couple minutes to break them all free and then slide the new bolts in. They can't remove the cat legally, but they can replace bolts. Then drop it down, drive home, put it on jacks and remove the fresh bolts to drop the cat.
I did this and it cost me $20 and ~10 minutes at a local gas station shop.
go to the hardware store and grab a set of bolts (I can go into detail if needed), take the 8 to any small shop, pay them to put the car on a lift and replace all the existing bolts with yours. Takes them a couple minutes to break them all free and then slide the new bolts in. They can't remove the cat legally, but they can replace bolts. Then drop it down, drive home, put it on jacks and remove the fresh bolts to drop the cat.
I did this and it cost me $20 and ~10 minutes at a local gas station shop.
12-30-2011, 02:05 PM
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It's right off the main pulley on the front of the engine, should be able to reach it without taking anything apart. I'm hunting for a pic of the location, but not finding one yet.
12-30-2011, 02:38 PM
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12-31-2011, 03:47 PM
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With the rpms dropping like you said I had this same problem with my 97 jeep wrangler in which I replaced the throttle body position sensor (I think that's the full name/correct) and it fixed the problem. Didn't cost me a lot at all to get done at my local shop.
With my jeep I had to actually pump the gas when driving just to keep my jeep running. After replaced ran like new...at least the rpms acted like it was :P
With my jeep I had to actually pump the gas when driving just to keep my jeep running. After replaced ran like new...at least the rpms acted like it was :P
12-31-2011, 06:43 PM
#19
I should have added the list of symptoms. So here they are.
*About a year, I was ordering food in the drive thru and then I saw the temperature needle go all the way up. I opened the door and I saw that there was coolant all over the floor. I brought it to the dealer in Tampa and they told that it was a fuse for the radiator fan. They replaced it and I was told that there were no leaks. However, a month after the red radiator light came on and has been on since. I brought it a regular mechanic and I was told that the sensor was dirty and that needed to be clean. Now this time around I was told by this new dealer in Miami (ocean mazda) that it was leaking. However, I have never seen the reserved tank move or I have never found coolant on the floor after the replace the fuse.
* The other problem that I have been having is that sometimes when I'm on a stop sign or a red light the car shots off. I have watched the RPM of the car and it drops below .5 and it turns off.
Consequently to that problem, I have felt the car lacking power. Sometimes when I'm on the freeway it feels like its going smooth and loses a bit of strength and it goes fine again, and it repeats again where it feels like it loses strength and goes smooth again. When it happens, it happens about every minute and it stops after a while. it can be 5 minutes or 10. And when this problem occurs its when the car shots off. when I get to a stop sign or red light.
Now something I did not mention is that I replaced the catalytic about a year or 2 ago.
I can take videos of the car or what not to get all the help that I can get. I honestly don’t have much money I just pay for my next semester of school.
Thanks again.
*About a year, I was ordering food in the drive thru and then I saw the temperature needle go all the way up. I opened the door and I saw that there was coolant all over the floor. I brought it to the dealer in Tampa and they told that it was a fuse for the radiator fan. They replaced it and I was told that there were no leaks. However, a month after the red radiator light came on and has been on since. I brought it a regular mechanic and I was told that the sensor was dirty and that needed to be clean. Now this time around I was told by this new dealer in Miami (ocean mazda) that it was leaking. However, I have never seen the reserved tank move or I have never found coolant on the floor after the replace the fuse.
* The other problem that I have been having is that sometimes when I'm on a stop sign or a red light the car shots off. I have watched the RPM of the car and it drops below .5 and it turns off.
Consequently to that problem, I have felt the car lacking power. Sometimes when I'm on the freeway it feels like its going smooth and loses a bit of strength and it goes fine again, and it repeats again where it feels like it loses strength and goes smooth again. When it happens, it happens about every minute and it stops after a while. it can be 5 minutes or 10. And when this problem occurs its when the car shots off. when I get to a stop sign or red light.
Now something I did not mention is that I replaced the catalytic about a year or 2 ago.
I can take videos of the car or what not to get all the help that I can get. I honestly don’t have much money I just pay for my next semester of school.
Thanks again.
01-01-2012, 02:22 PM
#21
Newb now, Pro with time
Thread Starter
01-03-2012, 09:24 PM
#23
Newb now, Pro with time
Thread Starter
so Im really new to the forum, who is reliable and cheap to buy, spark plugs, wires and coils for my car. Im gonna start from there since that needs to be done regardless. and RX8SHNKVI is gonna help me ^.^
01-03-2012, 09:48 PM
#24
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Thread Starter
01-07-2012, 11:06 AM
#25
Newb now, Pro with time
Thread Starter
However, before you do any of that stuff, locate the e-shaft sensor and hose it down with MAF cleaner ($7 per can). Get it clean, but don't hit it or anything. Then pull the negative battery cable for a few minutes. This clears the e-shaft sensor profile (as well as radio presets, fuel trims, DSC and TCS settings, etc...) You will have to reset a few things, but IF this is a simple e-shaft sensor being dirty and the profile shifting off ideal, then you have a really simple and clean fix. E-shaft sensor contamination and skewed sensor profile data can cause all of these issues as well. If you still have issues after that, then take your pick: An engine compression test at a dealer for around $120 or all new ignition for around $200 (replacing yourself).
Thank you you all for the help. I'll keep an eye for the answer and keep looking in the forum. what ever happens first the answer here or me digging the forum for another hour or so. Thanks again.