help!!! new engine with P0171
#1
help!!! new engine with P0171
2004 65,000 mi. 300 miles ago i got a remanufactured engine when it went in the only code it showed was the p0171 lean bank 1. it had power loss and raspy sound with a hard idle and died on me.took it in and failed compression test. got the new engine in and one day later it pulled the same code since it has got new plugs, coils, new front 02 sensor, there are no vac leaks, and fuel pump tested good. im tired of spending money and not having my baby, for them to say "well its still running lean."
Last edited by 8ya; 07-16-2011 at 10:32 AM. Reason: my car is all stock and also had a new maf before the engine lost compression
#5
Rockie Mountain Newbie
Here:
http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...ineControl.pdf
Go to page 123.
There's the possible causes and steps you should take to try to repair the issue.
Where in CO are you again?
Maybe we can swap my '11 MAF sensor into your car and see if that changes the way yours runs after we clear out the trouble code, and do a drive cycle on your car. If that fixes it, then you will know what you need to buy.
BC.
http://www.hi-impact.org/ryang/modif...ineControl.pdf
Go to page 123.
There's the possible causes and steps you should take to try to repair the issue.
Where in CO are you again?
Maybe we can swap my '11 MAF sensor into your car and see if that changes the way yours runs after we clear out the trouble code, and do a drive cycle on your car. If that fixes it, then you will know what you need to buy.
BC.
#6
im in colorado springs... my maf is pretty new....ill crack open the cat thats what im leaning twards... if thats the case time for a daves sport cat... but blade cutter if you want to come down this way some time i got the beers.
#7
Rockie Mountain Newbie
I would concentrate on something other than the cat in this case, though poping it off, and looking for a clog will help rule it out for sure.
You are looking at something that will cause it to run lean.
Intake air leak is most likely.
Grab a can of carb cleaner, and with the engine running, spray it everywhere from the throttle body all the way down to the lower intake manifold.
Make sure the spark plugs are tight.
Grab your tools, and double check.
Remove and reconnect the spark plug wires at all 4 spark plugs, and at all 4 ignition coils. If you have a timing light, hook it up to each coil individually, and check to see that each coil is firing. If not, replace the non-firing coils.
If you have the tools, test the fuel pressure at the rail. If the pump is dying, then you will run lean, obviously. Clean the MAF, and if you have a scan tool, you can see if the MAF is increasing with revs, and if its within specs.
If the injectors can be reached with a mechanic's stethoscope, listen to each one to see if they are clicking. I believe one pair doesn't turn on until a certain rpm, though. Not so important at idle, which is where the problem is, but you don't want to misdiagnose the wrong injectors not firing.
Have you done all the ecu clearing techniques on the car since you got is back from the dealer? 20 time brake pedal stomp, and removing the one fuse for a while. This will clean out all the memory, which will then require you to get the car to relearn everything.
Might be the first thing you should do.
20 brake stomp.
Remove the right fuse (don't know it off the top of my head).
Perform the Mode 1, 3, and 6 tests, and hopefully all will be right with your car.
BC.
You are looking at something that will cause it to run lean.
Intake air leak is most likely.
Grab a can of carb cleaner, and with the engine running, spray it everywhere from the throttle body all the way down to the lower intake manifold.
Make sure the spark plugs are tight.
Grab your tools, and double check.
Remove and reconnect the spark plug wires at all 4 spark plugs, and at all 4 ignition coils. If you have a timing light, hook it up to each coil individually, and check to see that each coil is firing. If not, replace the non-firing coils.
If you have the tools, test the fuel pressure at the rail. If the pump is dying, then you will run lean, obviously. Clean the MAF, and if you have a scan tool, you can see if the MAF is increasing with revs, and if its within specs.
If the injectors can be reached with a mechanic's stethoscope, listen to each one to see if they are clicking. I believe one pair doesn't turn on until a certain rpm, though. Not so important at idle, which is where the problem is, but you don't want to misdiagnose the wrong injectors not firing.
Have you done all the ecu clearing techniques on the car since you got is back from the dealer? 20 time brake pedal stomp, and removing the one fuse for a while. This will clean out all the memory, which will then require you to get the car to relearn everything.
Might be the first thing you should do.
20 brake stomp.
Remove the right fuse (don't know it off the top of my head).
Perform the Mode 1, 3, and 6 tests, and hopefully all will be right with your car.
BC.
#8
Thanks for the tips. I have cleared everything. mazda said that the fuel pump was good. I don't have a stethoscope but will suggest the injectors to Mazda on mon when I bring it back down. But first I will double check the plugs wires and coils to make sure they put them in correctly. Then
seach some more for vacuum leaks.
seach some more for vacuum leaks.
#9
Latest from Mazda the maf tested good they replaced the o2 sensor they did a fuel injector cleaner and the fuel pump test came back fine... it sucks but im afraid that they are going to say I need a new pcm
#10
Mazda replaced both o2 sensors and did a fuel injection cleaner 3 times they said cuz the Mazda hot line told them to keep doing it then rests eveythin and now im good to go but I only have 3 drive cycles so far.
#14
So after weeks with the run around from Mazda.. they replaced both o2 censors and did a fuel injector cleaner on it 3 times because that's what the Mazda usa was telling them to do... but all is good for now! See ya on the road.
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