DLange00

So here is the issue. My rx started making some noises after about 5k rpm a few months ago. I obviously thought rotor seals from the beginning. I cannot go to mazda and get it tested since I have all the aftermarket parts and they will charge me for the diagnostic and will not honor the warranty. I was an engineer in the Navy and worked at the base auto shop after serving up until about six months ago. I am great with piston driven diesels and gas engines though I am an amateur when it comes to rotory’s. I am unable to access the equipment to do the proper testing now.

Recently the engine has had a rough idle. It is fine through normal daily driving though I have noticed a loss in power in the high rpms when it starts making the noise. My gas mileage has gone down to about 12mpg. It was getting 16 to 19 prior to which is still bad since I have full exhaust with racing beat header, 3 inch B&B race pipe and HKS hi flow single outlet catback. I have tested all the sensors that would cause a rough idle with a multimeter and have ran the diagnostic with no results.

Within the past year I have upgraded the pulleys, belts, alternator, battery, plugs and wires. The only other thing that I could think of is the coils though they were replaced about three years ago. I have also done the pcm reset procedure through the diagnostic machine and the brake pedal method. Where do I go from here? Is it loss of compression or something else. Please don’t tell me to drive it hard like most of the posts say because that doesn’t work anymore. Am I at the point of no return?

Oh and my tranny is also grinding when I put it in first coming to a stop. Also replaced the throughout bearing, added stage 2 clutch and lightweight flywheel. I am sick of this money pit. Sorry for babbling but I need help before I drive this thing off a cliff. I have a video of it on youtube since the file was in HD and too big to upload here.
The link:
Thankyou for listening

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

1) I cleaned up the post a bunch, looks like it was pasted from some other program and the forum software didn't like what you sent it.

2) Video is private, so can't watch it.

3) Yes, Mazda will charge you for a compression test, possibly even if you are within warranty. Depends on the results. If you are within warranty and it fails, then they should not charge you for the test. If it passes, you will pay for it in or out of warranty. At $120-$180 though, it's cheaper than continuing to throw parts at it? Aftermarket parts isn't a flat "no". The mods you listed aren't enough for a warranty denial at most dealers, though some might be an ***.

4) At a first guess, it sounds like coil failure leading you a clogged catalytic converter, however it appears you don't have a cat, is this correct?

5) Coils, plugs, and wires should be changed together, around every 30,000 miles. Replacing plugs and wires on a set of failing coils will just mean that your brand new plugs and wires are still not getting the electrical charge they need. Replacing coils without replacing plugs or wires will just burn out coils faster, since the charge can't travel as freely as it needs to.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

video is marked as private

DLange00

Thanks for the help, I made the video public and it did come from word which would explain the format issue. In the video it looks like it is shaking slowly but its actually a fast vibration. Im definitely gonna try the coils. Hopefully it will solve the problem. I don't have a cat though I can hear the rough idle through the exhaust, sounds like it is almost bogging out and go's to lower than normal idle rpms, also shakes the exhaust. I'm trying to take every measure I can without going to the dealer.

jayrerickson

To me it looks like a high frequency vibration and looks like its moving slow. Like a fan in a strobe light.

Maybe one rotor is working or 2 faces have failed.

First step is to take the plugs out and see what they look like.

As for the trany, bleed the line and see if that helps. Might have air in the line and it is not pushing the pressure plate far enough. If that doesn't help, probably the first gear synchro is going out. It is rare as you never jam it in first like 2nd and 3rd. It can happen if you put it into first before MPH drops far enough.

jamesf

iTrader: (1)

I feel like your intake could be contributing to your rough idle issue. You can try putting the stock one back, or upgrading to a racing beat intake.

Then I would go grounding kit (cheap), BHR ignition kit which would replace your coils, and if you want to dampen it more stiffer motor mounts will help as well.

Cleaning the MAF/ESS will be recommended as well.