lostwolf07

I installed my Agency power exhaust and mid pipe not to long ago, But afterward it smelled like it is running rich(VERY) but seemed to run just fine. Now after a long trip from TX to VA my coolant light comes on at cruising speed about 65-70 mph on the highway then after about a min it turns off again. Then when the trip was over there was some brown soot on the back bumper from the exhaust. also the check engine light is on but i believe it is because of my already loose O2 sensor and the new exhaust.

If my thinking is correct I believe it could be fixed by installing a cobb accessport and the BHR ignition sys But any help with this would be a TON of help. Anything i can fix my self would be a ton of help before i have to take it to the dealership.

Tampa1stRotor

iTrader: (1)

1- have autozone scan your ecu and give us the code(s)

2- did you check the coolant level? If so sensor is probably going bad.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

Wait, I am very confused...

Chances are the CEL is because you installed a midpipe ... aka no cat ... aka no emissions control ... so the car is detecting that and telling you.

The soot and smell is because yes, you are not filtering any emissions, therefore you are seeing exactly what comes out of the engine, soot, smell, carbon, etc.

Coolant light could be a common issue, search the forum, there is a thread that discusses a faulty coolant sensor.

And yes, an AP will remove the CEL (assuming it is indeed a CAT efficiency code {P0420}), give you a tune that is better for catless cars, amongst other things.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Any reason you bumped a previous thread in this same sub forum and then created a new thread on it?

Poor forum etiquette.

The bumper soot is normal for any catless rotary, the coolant sensor will not be connected to the midpipe issue, and could be a low fluid level or a bad sensor. Taking it to the dealer is not going to help you much, since they will just berate you for no cat and insist that it's the problem without bothering to look at anything else, and if you have a warranty left at all, they will cancel whatever is left.

lostwolf07

I did but ill have to find them the codes were for a faulty O2 sensor *aka its loose* i need to get a new rubber gasket for it so it will stay but it had another code come up Ill go and get it done here in a min I seem to have lost the paper with the codes.

paimon.soror

iTrader: (15)

The code has nothing to do with your O2 being lose .... it's because you aren't filtering emissions therefore the ECU is flipping out.

When you replaced your exhaust, did you ever compare the OEM "midpipe" with the new one and say to yourself "man, i wonder why this new one is like half the bulk"

lostwolf07

here are the tests from auto zone

O2 Sensor (Bank 1, Sensor 2) P0139

Catalyst Efficiency below threshold (Bank 1) P0420

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Yes, those are the standard ones for not having a cat on.

Check the coolant level, and everything else is normal.

lostwolf07

I did and figured all that its because of the OEM midpipe had the filter thus the reason why it was so heavy at that part when it was made of less then heavy outside material. but what i was trying to figure out was if there was something other than the factor that i removed the Cat. Thanks for the help its good to know that i can fix most of this with the AP! I was worried that that would not fix most of it but it seems so from what yall are telling me. And I apologise btw for the extra post that was my bad!

lostwolf07

yeah the coolant lvl is Fine its at full so im agreeing with ya, I think its just a faulty coolant sensor. any suggestions on what map to use with the AP?

Dj-Trippwire

Buy from MM and you can get a map made for you or buy a AP and purchase the tune from MM and get it. Your choice? or make a map yourself