Hard Starts, especially with a warm motor when its Cold outside
04-18-2012, 08:25 PM
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Hard Starts, especially with a warm motor when its Cold outside
Help me please guys I have been to the dealer several times, and they can never seem to figure it out even though they say they fixed it. When I try to start my car when the motor is cold, it cranks hard taking it a few seconds more than usual and it doesnt start easy, but when the motor is warm and i shut it off and try to start it, sometimes it takes up to 10 mins to get it start, and thats cranking and cranking sometimes. I posted two videos I recorded of the problem on youtube...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCL3x...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fw-Gu...ature=youtu.be
I started recording this video after trying to start the car for 5 mins already, so I could email to the service tech at the dealership who told me my car was fixed, to show him he doesnt know what he is doing.
Please help my guys
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PCL3x...ature=youtu.be
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fw-Gu...ature=youtu.be
I started recording this video after trying to start the car for 5 mins already, so I could email to the service tech at the dealership who told me my car was fixed, to show him he doesnt know what he is doing.
Please help my guys
04-19-2012, 03:35 PM
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"Hot Start" difficulties when it's easier while cold is one of the consistent symptoms of compression loss. Your engine is failing, take it in to Mazda for a compression test to verify. If you are still within the 8yr 100,000 mile warranty, and can meet their records request, then you can get a reman engine under warranty.
If you are outside the warranty, then you are looking at a minimum of ~$3,500 for a reman engine, or higher with higher quality rebuilds and/or new engines. Plus labor if you don't do the replacement yourself.
If you are outside the warranty, then you are looking at a minimum of ~$3,500 for a reman engine, or higher with higher quality rebuilds and/or new engines. Plus labor if you don't do the replacement yourself.
04-19-2012, 03:38 PM
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You are reading it wrong. "especially with a warm motor" is in the title, plus this bit of his post.
When I try to start my car when the motor is cold, it cranks hard taking it a few seconds more than usual and it doesnt start easy, but when the motor is warm and i shut it off and try to start it, sometimes it takes up to 10 mins to get it start, and thats cranking and cranking sometimes.
04-19-2012, 03:45 PM
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Ok.
So since we are just saying what other people said, and telling the rest what they didn't say:
You just said "are saying........title says especially", not "are saying........moonbeam says mostly"
So since we are just saying what other people said, and telling the rest what they didn't say:
You just said "are saying........title says especially", not "are saying........moonbeam says mostly"
04-19-2012, 08:33 PM
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ok well my car is a 2004 with about 46,500 miles on it. I just replaced the plugs,wires and crankshaft position sensor in it 2 weeks ago. The dealer told me my motor warranty is up in September of this year. I have no replaced the coils yet as the dealer told me there was nothing wrong with them they ran a full diagnostic twice which cost me an arm and a leg for what they do. The battery I believe is the original also as it is a Mazda battery but I cannot read the dates on it, so I have to assume that any ways.
04-19-2012, 09:10 PM
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I would assume that would be part of a full diagnostic, but my care runs fine besides starting and I would also assume if I was having compression issues it wouldnt run so hot
04-19-2012, 09:20 PM
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A) Mazda's tests to determine coil pass/fail will pass coils that are no longer producing a steady, stable, or hot spark. The coils have to be just about completely dead for them to fail Mazda's test. During the time that the coil is failing and the owner refuses to change it, the misfires are dumping excess fuel into the exhaust, accelerating cat failure, as well as fouling plugs and building excess carbon in the combustion chamber. At 46,000 miles, you are probably still on the original coils, which usually only last about 30,000 miles.
B) If they didn't ACTUALLY test compression, then they don't know your compression specs
C) "Running fine" is entirely possible with failing compression. Hot start problems are the FIRST sign you will run into with failing compression.
D) paying Mazda to run their full diagnostics instead of paying them the lesser fee of just getting a compression test is what you should have done.
E) The coolant temp has little to do with the compression number (at least, the compression difference between passing and failing).
F) The good news is that coils are ~$28 each from Advance Auto online, instead of ~$80 each from the dealer. Replace them and your hot start will probably be improved.
G) HOWEVER, since you are approaching the end of your warranty, it is in your BEST INTEREST to insist on a compression test, and get the 6 rotor face numbers and the RPM speed. Don't settle for anything less. Ignore this advice at your own peril. We have no interest in you showing back up a month past your warranty with "my engine failed
"
B) If they didn't ACTUALLY test compression, then they don't know your compression specs
C) "Running fine" is entirely possible with failing compression. Hot start problems are the FIRST sign you will run into with failing compression.
D) paying Mazda to run their full diagnostics instead of paying them the lesser fee of just getting a compression test is what you should have done.
E) The coolant temp has little to do with the compression number (at least, the compression difference between passing and failing).
F) The good news is that coils are ~$28 each from Advance Auto online, instead of ~$80 each from the dealer. Replace them and your hot start will probably be improved.
G) HOWEVER, since you are approaching the end of your warranty, it is in your BEST INTEREST to insist on a compression test, and get the 6 rotor face numbers and the RPM speed. Don't settle for anything less. Ignore this advice at your own peril. We have no interest in you showing back up a month past your warranty with "my engine failed
"
04-29-2012, 01:14 PM
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Well here is an update I have been in contact with the dealer, they believe it is a compression issue, with out doing the test yet, but they are dicking me around saying they dont know if they will honor the warranty because for a year or so I wasnt having the car serviced at a dealership.......
04-29-2012, 01:29 PM
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Legally, they can't do that, and it's not the dealer's decision anyway.
How it works is that you take it in, they do the compression test, get the results, and fill out a warranty request form that sends the compression results along with a bunch of other information to Mazda North America, and they return back an answer of "yes we will cover it" or "no we won't cover it."
Part of what gets submitted is questions such as: "Does the owner have service records". At no point is is legal for the dealer to withhold warranty simply because the owner did their own maintenance, or had it maintained elsewhere other than the dealer. The ONLY way it would be legal is if the warranty expressly stipulates that it must be done at the dealer for coverage, and the warranty does not.
None of this comes out of the dealers pocket, quite the reverse actually. Dealers make several thousand dollars off of warranty engine replacements. Any dealer that resists doing the test and making the paperwork submission is straight up lazy and trying to avoid work.
However, forcing a dealer to do the work when they don't want to is hazardous, because they can easily skew the submission with inaccurate or incorrect information, and you would never know it.
Are there any other dealers within range? I took mine an hour and a half away for it's test, because I didn't trust a single dealer closer.
How it works is that you take it in, they do the compression test, get the results, and fill out a warranty request form that sends the compression results along with a bunch of other information to Mazda North America, and they return back an answer of "yes we will cover it" or "no we won't cover it."
Part of what gets submitted is questions such as: "Does the owner have service records". At no point is is legal for the dealer to withhold warranty simply because the owner did their own maintenance, or had it maintained elsewhere other than the dealer. The ONLY way it would be legal is if the warranty expressly stipulates that it must be done at the dealer for coverage, and the warranty does not.
None of this comes out of the dealers pocket, quite the reverse actually. Dealers make several thousand dollars off of warranty engine replacements. Any dealer that resists doing the test and making the paperwork submission is straight up lazy and trying to avoid work.
However, forcing a dealer to do the work when they don't want to is hazardous, because they can easily skew the submission with inaccurate or incorrect information, and you would never know it.
Are there any other dealers within range? I took mine an hour and a half away for it's test, because I didn't trust a single dealer closer.
05-05-2012, 01:07 AM
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Another update....Took the car in to the dealer today and had the compression check done it came back with low compression on one of the rotors. They submitted the warranty paperwork for a new motor, they said they would call me on monday when they hear back.
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