Hard braking needed
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Hard braking needed
Hey guys, my e brake light just stays on, so I took it to a local place and they said I need to change my rotars. They said the front ones need to be changed and the back ones can be "hanged" I think thats what he said. So it got changed then like the next day the light came on again and it just stays there. I have exams so I decided to get it looked at in about a week or so and the brakes work fine so far. Just now I took it out to get some food and my brakes barely work. I have to push it all the way down for it to work.
My friend says I might need a new master cylinder. Has anyone else experienced this?
My friend says I might need a new master cylinder. Has anyone else experienced this?
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...have you checked the brake fluid level?
You know that it's not an "e-brake light" it is a "brake warning light" Having the e-brake up triggers, it, but so does several other things, including low brake fluid. Low brake fluid would also let air into the brake lines, causing your pedal to not apply full braking force as it compresses the air in the line instead of pushing fluid against the caliper pistons.
Typically, the fluid level drops as your pads wear down (which changes the distance of the piston from the other bits), and the low level light is also approximately when your brake pads are at critical level. I can't believe the shop replaced the rotors and put old pads back in.
Check the fluid level and get back to us.
You know that it's not an "e-brake light" it is a "brake warning light" Having the e-brake up triggers, it, but so does several other things, including low brake fluid. Low brake fluid would also let air into the brake lines, causing your pedal to not apply full braking force as it compresses the air in the line instead of pushing fluid against the caliper pistons.
Typically, the fluid level drops as your pads wear down (which changes the distance of the piston from the other bits), and the low level light is also approximately when your brake pads are at critical level. I can't believe the shop replaced the rotors and put old pads back in.
Check the fluid level and get back to us.
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No its not fluid, I could use some but its well above the min line. I think it might be the master cylinder. Im taking it to a shop later ill get back to you all about what happens.
#5
Anyway, check your brake pads before listening to your friend and possibly waste money.
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It works but I have to slam the pedal to the floor for it to work. I can hear the hydraulics when I push the pedal. Im gonna have some one take a look at it. Im pretty sure my break pads are good, ill take a look at it as well. Ill keep you all updated.
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Yeah ive been hitching rides for the past two days. Im getting it checked out in the morning. It was kind of scary driving like that, I was downshifting the whole time to avoid using the brakes.
#12
Voids warranties
#14
Voids warranties
#15
Voids warranties
#16
On the other hand brake pads have a clip that closes a circuit (and at times makes noise) which function is to turn the brake check light on.
You shouldn't be allowed near a car.
#18
Voids warranties
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If the line was broken then wouldn't the brakes not work at all pretty soon after that? He has been using the brakes so much that I would think there would be no fluid in there if it were leaking or he wouldnt make it far down the road with his current "working" brakes. Even a small leak in a brake line should become big with the pressure that is involved, right?
#21
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I do not want to get between you and BSE50, just asking a question.
If the line was broken then wouldn't the brakes not work at all pretty soon after that? He has been using the brakes so much that I would think there would be no fluid in there if it were leaking or he wouldnt make it far down the road with his current "working" brakes. Even a small leak in a brake line should become big with the pressure that is involved, right?
If the line was broken then wouldn't the brakes not work at all pretty soon after that? He has been using the brakes so much that I would think there would be no fluid in there if it were leaking or he wouldnt make it far down the road with his current "working" brakes. Even a small leak in a brake line should become big with the pressure that is involved, right?
OP: You may need pads, and you definitely need your brakes bled. You could have a bubble in one of the soft lines as mentioned above. You could also have a caliper or two that are hanging.
#22
Release the twins.
I do not want to get between you and BSE50, just asking a question.
If the line was broken then wouldn't the brakes not work at all pretty soon after that? He has been using the brakes so much that I would think there would be no fluid in there if it were leaking or he wouldnt make it far down the road with his current "working" brakes. Even a small leak in a brake line should become big with the pressure that is involved, right?
If the line was broken then wouldn't the brakes not work at all pretty soon after that? He has been using the brakes so much that I would think there would be no fluid in there if it were leaking or he wouldnt make it far down the road with his current "working" brakes. Even a small leak in a brake line should become big with the pressure that is involved, right?
step 1 push your break pedal all the way to the floor? does it hit bottom?
If no... hold it there for 5 mins and see if it slowly drops, if it has a leak, it will drop, if it don't, then it won't. period.
2. if it's bottoming out(just hits the floor), you'll need it to be bled, before testing, but if you had a leak, you would likely see it on the ground.
3. Check the ******* ebrake switch. it takes like 10 mins to do. and you can do it from the heated comfort of your cabin.
also OP did the light EVER go out, your description sounds like it did.... but did it?
#23
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I do not want to get between you and BSE50, just asking a question.
If the line was broken then wouldn't the brakes not work at all pretty soon after that? He has been using the brakes so much that I would think there would be no fluid in there if it were leaking or he wouldnt make it far down the road with his current "working" brakes. Even a small leak in a brake line should become big with the pressure that is involved, right?
If the line was broken then wouldn't the brakes not work at all pretty soon after that? He has been using the brakes so much that I would think there would be no fluid in there if it were leaking or he wouldnt make it far down the road with his current "working" brakes. Even a small leak in a brake line should become big with the pressure that is involved, right?
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Yeah I was told its most likely the brake master cylinder but he told me I should bleed the brakes first, if that doesn't fix it then change the brake master cylinder.
I think ill try to do bleed them this on Thursday after my last final.
Ill let you all know about how its going, also I want to thank you all for the replies, a whole lot nicer, and more helpful than other boards out there.
I think ill try to do bleed them this on Thursday after my last final.
Ill let you all know about how its going, also I want to thank you all for the replies, a whole lot nicer, and more helpful than other boards out there.
#25
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jesus, you guys suck...
step 1 push your break pedal all the way to the floor? does it hit bottom?
If no... hold it there for 5 mins and see if it slowly drops, if it has a leak, it will drop, if it don't, then it won't. period. Unless his brakes need bled, then it will
2. if it's bottoming out(just hits the floor), you'll need it to be bled, before testing, but if you had a leak, you would likely see it on the ground.
3. Check the ******* ebrake switch. it takes like 10 mins to do. and you can do it from the heated comfort of your cabin.
also OP did the light EVER go out, your description sounds like it did.... but did it?
step 1 push your break pedal all the way to the floor? does it hit bottom?
If no... hold it there for 5 mins and see if it slowly drops, if it has a leak, it will drop, if it don't, then it won't. period. Unless his brakes need bled, then it will
2. if it's bottoming out(just hits the floor), you'll need it to be bled, before testing, but if you had a leak, you would likely see it on the ground.
3. Check the ******* ebrake switch. it takes like 10 mins to do. and you can do it from the heated comfort of your cabin.
also OP did the light EVER go out, your description sounds like it did.... but did it?
The easiest way to check and see if you need to bleed your brakes:
1. Fill your reservoir with brake fluid.
2. push the pedal to the the floor.
3. let up most of the way, then pump the brake pedal down and up a few times.
If it gets stiffer and stops going to the floor, they need bled badly. If it's still soft and goes to the floor, you have other issues.
again, If he had a leak, he'd have no brakes at all pretty quickly. There would fluid all over the ground/wheels/underbody depending on where the leak was. He would also notice that his reservoir was empty.
Replacing the master cylinder can be done with hand tools, but it's a pain in the *** if that's the case.