He did answer one of your questions.

Same as drifiting, can't learn it on the internet but you can get ideas about the technices.


And auto-x and track events aren't running everywhere, winter does affect those. Last time I checked Mid-Ohio isn't running HPDE's with 8 inched of snow. But since both of you live in the south why would you think drift events would stop, and auto-x events would keep going. Or did you forget that their are drift events outside of Cali?

Can't we all just get along? The op is asking a legitimate question! I for one am not into drifting but to each their own.

Trying to help. Again, have you bedded the brakes? :uhh:

Hope YO your CRUTCH Holds Up..

OH.YO...the 3 Hand Brake cables have a tendency to stretch with use and age.

The Small Front Cable (F151-44-150A) can even break..
Try getting your front cables adjusted might also help YO!..;)

Yes I am very sure... I Used to do that a lot with my car for over a year.. Even with other cars rwd or fwd .. Just when I changed those stuff it became like that.. I even thought it was bad installation.. But I took it to some places and they said everything is ok there.

I don't understand the questions. I don't know the word bedded..sorry.. My vocabulary is limited, not American. Lol

Iwill ask the guys at the shop to do that. Thank you for the suggestion.

^ This... new brake lines and/or fresh brake fluid do very little to aid in the braking using the hand brake. So you shouldn't have expected gains from there.

Also, bedding your brakes is essentially wearing some of your pad off onto the rotor to allow for maximum stopping power. This is a decent link that explains why and how.

http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm

+1

With new brake pads they need to transfer a thin layer of material on to the rotor to reach optimum performance. This increases the coefficient of friction between the pad and rotor. It increases the initial bite and actual friction force applied when the pads clamp the rotors.

To do this you need to find a long straight quite road maybe 1/2 a mile or so.

Then accelerate quickly to 50mph. Then brake hard (without locking up) down to 35 then accelerate back up to 50. Repeat 8-10 times. Then without stopping take a quick 5 minute highway drive to cool the brakes and rotors back down before coming to a stop.

This has the effect of heating up your brakes enough to burn off any manufacturing residue on the pad, heating it up enough to deposit an even layer of pad on the rotors without creating a hot spot or uneven deposit. Then cooling the pad and rotor down with a highway drive brings the pad and rotor back down to a lower temp before stopping so you aren't creating spot deposits.

Cool..thanks y'all.. I'll try that when I get back to the US.

I've had the same issue with my rear brakes not locking up. I have SS lines from mazdatrix, slotted rotors from R1 concepts and Stoptech brake pads ceramics, and BBK at the fronts. No matter how much I pull rears won't lock up.. but it was brought to my attention at one of my clubs events that they were able too. The pads just need to be heated up abit and the locked up like a champ. Ride your ebrake abit (pull the ebrake half way) for about 150 ft doing 10-15mph. then try ripping the ebrake, clutch in ebrake up, it will lock up :) at least for me it does.

I don't think SS lines have any bearing on the handbrake's effectiveness ... just sayin' :dunno:

Thank you man :)

To get the most locking out of the rear brakes you should also consider swapping back to better brake discs (plain or slotted only).

Our PARKING brake is not intended to lock the wheels, you can only band-aid the problem.

So much for the grammar/spelling police. :banghead:

I realize you said English isn't your first language(and it's not relevant to the thread)................but the word is "Brake".

neither does my front bbk, I just like strutting my stuff :D.

Hopefully it solves your issues with locking up the rear, I know our "parking brakes" are not meant to lock up, but you can adjust them and upgrade to a better brake pad.. maybe even invest in a hydraulic brake cutter/staging. I'm currently looking at that option...

You're not much of a driftor if you need the handbrake.

Master Tsuchiya here will show you at least five other ways to drift......

http://youtu.be/JT0faLPcpRU

"Yesterday you can't even spell it, yet now you is one."

agreed, there are other ways to drift, clutch kicking works pretty good on our cars, although it does strain the drive line/clutch more. But gotta pay to play.

Mine works just fine when I use it lol...when I practice J turns I usually go about 40-50 mph and lightly lift up my ebrake and give it three small pulls before actually hitting the turn, so far dam ebrake lock up like a charm and im using cheap ass pads too....my question is how much seat time do you have, because it seems like operator error to me unless your lines need to be rebleeded or adjust the brake cable