He did answer one of your questions.
I try to lock my breaks in low speeds, like 20mph and lower.. It's nothing.. It's just drifting like entering turns or to park. |
Originally Posted by 9krpmrx8
(Post 3831422)
No one would post in the troubleshooting forum on how to improve their heel toe technique. Learning how to heel/toe on a internet forum is next to impossible. And Autox and other track events are going on every month :) Winter does not affect those here.
And auto-x and track events aren't running everywhere, winter does affect those. Last time I checked Mid-Ohio isn't running HPDE's with 8 inched of snow. But since both of you live in the south why would you think drift events would stop, and auto-x events would keep going. Or did you forget that their are drift events outside of Cali? |
Can't we all just get along? The op is asking a legitimate question! I for one am not into drifting but to each their own.
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Originally Posted by u.costa
(Post 3831945)
Can anybody please help??? Just read what I wrote..the explanation is all there!
Originally Posted by shaunv74
(Post 3831443)
Have you bedded the brakes properly? Use of your handbrake aside if the new pads are not biting and holding as well as you old ones you may just need to bed them in first.
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Hope YO your CRUTCH Holds Up..
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OH.YO...the 3 Hand Brake cables have a tendency to stretch with use and age.
The Small Front Cable (F151-44-150A) can even break.. Try getting your front cables adjusted might also help YO!..;) |
Originally Posted by lateralus
(Post 3831948)
Answer the questions I posted earlier in the thread....... Are you sure its the car and not your technique?
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Originally Posted by shaunv74
(Post 3832200)
Trying to help. Again, have you bedded the brakes? :uhh:
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Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 3832846)
OH.YO...the 3 Hand Brake cables have a tendency to stretch with use and age.
The Small Front Cable (F151-44-150A) can even break.. Try getting your front cables adjusted might also help YO!..;) |
Originally Posted by ASH8
(Post 3832846)
OH.YO...the 3 Hand Brake cables have a tendency to stretch with use and age.
The Small Front Cable (F151-44-150A) can even break.. Try getting your front cables adjusted might also help YO!..;) Also, bedding your brakes is essentially wearing some of your pad off onto the rotor to allow for maximum stopping power. This is a decent link that explains why and how. http://www.zeckhausen.com/bedding_in_brakes.htm |
+1
With new brake pads they need to transfer a thin layer of material on to the rotor to reach optimum performance. This increases the coefficient of friction between the pad and rotor. It increases the initial bite and actual friction force applied when the pads clamp the rotors. To do this you need to find a long straight quite road maybe 1/2 a mile or so. Then accelerate quickly to 50mph. Then brake hard (without locking up) down to 35 then accelerate back up to 50. Repeat 8-10 times. Then without stopping take a quick 5 minute highway drive to cool the brakes and rotors back down before coming to a stop. This has the effect of heating up your brakes enough to burn off any manufacturing residue on the pad, heating it up enough to deposit an even layer of pad on the rotors without creating a hot spot or uneven deposit. Then cooling the pad and rotor down with a highway drive brings the pad and rotor back down to a lower temp before stopping so you aren't creating spot deposits. |
Cool..thanks y'all.. I'll try that when I get back to the US.
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I've had the same issue with my rear brakes not locking up. I have SS lines from mazdatrix, slotted rotors from R1 concepts and Stoptech brake pads ceramics, and BBK at the fronts. No matter how much I pull rears won't lock up.. but it was brought to my attention at one of my clubs events that they were able too. The pads just need to be heated up abit and the locked up like a champ. Ride your ebrake abit (pull the ebrake half way) for about 150 ft doing 10-15mph. then try ripping the ebrake, clutch in ebrake up, it will lock up :) at least for me it does.
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Originally Posted by Junirol
(Post 4070067)
... I have SS lines from mazdatrix ...
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Originally Posted by Junirol
(Post 4070067)
I've had the same issue with my rear brakes not locking up. I have SS lines from mazdatrix, slotted rotors from R1 concepts and Stoptech brake pads ceramics, and BBK at the fronts. No matter how much I pull rears won't lock up.. but it was brought to my attention at one of my clubs events that they were able too. The pads just need to be heated up abit and the locked up like a champ. Ride your ebrake abit (pull the ebrake half way) for about 150 ft doing 10-15mph. then try ripping the ebrake, clutch in ebrake up, it will lock up :) at least for me it does.
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To get the most locking out of the rear brakes you should also consider swapping back to better brake discs (plain or slotted only).
Our PARKING brake is not intended to lock the wheels, you can only band-aid the problem. |
So much for the grammar/spelling police. :banghead:
I realize you said English isn't your first language(and it's not relevant to the thread)................but the word is "Brake". |
Originally Posted by maskedferret
(Post 4070137)
I don't think SS lines have any bearing on the handbrake's effectiveness ... just sayin' :dunno:
Hopefully it solves your issues with locking up the rear, I know our "parking brakes" are not meant to lock up, but you can adjust them and upgrade to a better brake pad.. maybe even invest in a hydraulic brake cutter/staging. I'm currently looking at that option... |
You're not much of a driftor if you need the handbrake.
Master Tsuchiya here will show you at least five other ways to drift...... http://youtu.be/JT0faLPcpRU "Yesterday you can't even spell it, yet now you is one." |
Originally Posted by StealthTL
(Post 4073229)
You're not much of a driftor if you need the handbrake.
Master Tsuchiya here will show you at least five other ways to drift...... http://youtu.be/JT0faLPcpRU "Yesterday you can't even spell it, yet now you is one." agreed, there are other ways to drift, clutch kicking works pretty good on our cars, although it does strain the drive line/clutch more. But gotta pay to play. |
Mine works just fine when I use it lol...when I practice J turns I usually go about 40-50 mph and lightly lift up my ebrake and give it three small pulls before actually hitting the turn, so far dam ebrake lock up like a charm and im using cheap ass pads too....my question is how much seat time do you have, because it seems like operator error to me unless your lines need to be rebleeded or adjust the brake cable
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