Fast Flashing Immobiliser - Now won't start
Alright, so I've read up on some of the other cases of this on the site (at least ones I could find) and it appears that my car may have lost "my key" in the immobiliser functionality, at least that is what I'm hypothesizing at the moment.
The weird thing is that I was driving and went to accelerate when the problem arose. I immediately lost everything (power brakes, power steering) and nearly all the lights on the dash lit up. I pulled off to a side road and tried to start the car. No turning over, no clicking, but all lights on the dash were functioning and the radio worked, lights, trunk remote release, remote lock, etc. all worked. I tried to hook up my Cobb to check for CEL codes, but it could not recognize my car. I tried that a number of times to no avail. Next, I checked the fuses. All fuses near driver-side door looked to be intact. Under the hood, I found a blown 15A fuse (engine fuse). I was really hoping that replacing that one would fix my problem. Unfortunately, nothing seemed different and still the same problem. I had the car towed to my house (~0.5 miles away). I didn't have time to check the 120A fuse, but that will be the very next thing that I check when I get home. The other very unfortunate part of this story is that I don't have another working key, as I think I've read this problem could go away quickly if I had the other key. That key was lost in the first month of ownership. Luckily I have a beater car that I can take to work and back but this is f'n annoying. Points of note: Original Owner 2004 MT 82,500 miles Not sure if it has the upgraded starter? BHR Ignition AP Cobb (with MM Base Map installed for 1.5 weeks) If you have any ideas or know where I could research this situation further, I would greatly appreciate the help. |
Well, I've been digging around.
The 15A Engine Fuse that I found blown during the initial inspection was replaced. I checked it again when I got home from work and it was blown again. Replaced it again and tried to start, and you guessed it, blown again. The 120A main fuse looks to be intact. The Plot Thickens...in a real bad way. |
Check how you grounded the ignition.
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Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 3704874)
Check how you grounded the ignition.
This is something I thought about, but won't get to look that deep until this weekend. I can then check the install and make sure all contacts and wires are still good. This is so weird. I was just saying how reliable my car has been and how proud I was to be an [original] owner of an '04. The car seemed to be running better than ever after I got the base map for the Cobb. I gotta hang it up for tonight, time to do more research and get a game plan together. |
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 3704874)
Check how you grounded the ignition.
I'm really hoping this is the case and I can get back functional by the end of saturday! Now, I have more research to do. |
Success!!!
Problem solved. One of the wires that runs to the coil adapter harness was shorting to ground. It was the second coil back and the pink wire from the BHR wiring harness had rubbed against the engine bracket (pull point for engine in front). I removed the harness and taped up the damaged wires. Replaced fuses and am back in business.
MazdaManiac, thanks for the suggestion of looking at the ground. It opened my eyes to the possibility of an issue with the coils. When I looked at the wiring diagram in greater detail, I noticed that the ENGINE fuse was a safety for the ignition system, and the ignition system is the only part of that diagram that I have ever touched. It became very clear after I removed the stock air box that there might be an issue with the wires as they are very cramped. So glad that is done and no money out of pocket!!! |
Hi I have 05mazda rx8 PZ
Recently my battery died when I connected the cable I connected them wrong way round And now I have some electric power Basically at first I was told to check main fuse which was ok....but I still changed it as I ordered one so thort I'd just put it on....I've checked all fuses and relays The only fuse which had blown was the room fuse which I've replaced I've even checked the ecu which seems fine What could it be??? Been told maybe the Immobiliser not letting me start the car??? The only power I have is to all window, headlight, stereo and air conditioning unit works fine.... When I put key in ignition I have no lights on dash apart from flashing key light and door open light ( door was open so this why its on)....I can hear a clicking noise from main fuse box??? So all the gauges have no power and won't turn over.... Any body have same issue ??? Or. An any one suggest anything for me to try or replace ??? I |
I'm having this same issue right now. I replaced one of my BHR coils, went for a test drive, and engine cut-off with all other systems seeming fine. Can't find any blown fuses though. Any ideas greatly appreciated!
EDIT: Was the engine fuse. Something about the ignition coil connector was causing the engine fuse to blow. |
The BHR wires tend to ground out at the engine lift point if you are not careful and blow the 15 amp engine fuse. That's the first place to look.
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has a similar issue and it turned out to be one of the coils that had 'failed', replaced and everything worked again.
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Originally Posted by logalinipoo
(Post 4723140)
The BHR wires tend to ground out at the engine lift point if you are not careful and blow the 15 amp engine fuse. That's the first place to look.
Exactly what happened to me. The connector got jammed against the engine lifting bracket, shorted out, popping the engine fuse, leaving me stranded at work 20 miles from home and had to get towed. (Luckily, I had AAA & 1 free tow) I removed the lift bracket to ensure it wouldn't happen again. However, the 2 long bolts holding the bracket also help secure the water pump, so I used washers the same thickness as the bracket to be sure they wouldn't bottom out and cause a leak. |
Originally Posted by stickyRice
(Post 4723023)
EDIT: Was the engine fuse. Something about the ignition coil connector was causing the engine fuse to blow. I must have overlooked it when installing mine. This is a good time to point it out in case someone buys a used kit without the instructions, or buys or inherits an 8 with the kit. |
Originally Posted by chrisyd
(Post 4723305)
has a similar issue and it turned out to be one of the coils that had 'failed', replaced and everything worked again.
I don't think just a failed coil would cause that condition, if so, that's news to me. |
Fast Flashing 'Key' Light troubleshooting
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This DIY helped me with my issue.
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...29dd605cdf.png https://cimg5.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...e3f437a579.png |
oh my eyes... dude, just post the link to the thread! LOL
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And I agree we're talking about a bad coil harness adapter / wire and / or install ... not coil.
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Originally Posted by ShellDude
(Post 4723383)
oh my eyes... dude, just post the link to the thread! LOL
I haz no compooter.:( |
we need to get you a new computer!
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Originally Posted by ShellDude
(Post 4723404)
we need to get you a new computer!
Wouldn't know what to do with it. If you post the link, I'll delete the screenshots. |
she caught you watching porn, huh?
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Originally Posted by ShellDude
(Post 4723423)
she caught you watching porn, huh?
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Originally Posted by BigCajun
(Post 4723331)
You had a failed coil that caused the fast flashing immobilizer light to come on and blow the engine fuse?
I don't think just a failed coil would cause that condition, if so, that's news to me. |
What if it just flashes rapidly w/o a pattern just blink blink blink blink....? I replaced my coils with stock ones and I drove it for around 100 miles and the immobilizer went off and turned my car off while in motion. I replaced my Battery, terminals, and the 15amp fuse. I am so lost.
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the coil FSM talked about is the coil that's around the key hole. it's used to detect (read) your RFID. jesus.
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I know that. I was stating that is all I have done. I just replaced my ignition coils and my battery. Nothing was plugged in wrong. I know some people have swapped terminals on accident. I'm just frustrated.
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Help, im facing this problem too, what has immobilizer has to do with changing ignition coil pack? i just dont get it. checked all fuses, all still good, checked ignition ground is good too.
but the immobilizer light keep flashing hence cant start the car.. Help anyone? |
Originally Posted by Okki-Jakarta
(Post 4821136)
Help, im facing this problem too, what has immobilizer has to do with changing ignition coil pack? i just dont get it. checked all fuses, all still gi70ood, checked ignition ground is good too.
but the immobilizer light keep flashing hence cant start the car.. Help anyone? I shorted a wire against thw engine lift bracket and popped it, wasn't obvious at first. |
Originally Posted by BigCajun
(Post 4821178)
Look closely at your engine fuse.
I shorted a wire against thw engine lift bracket and popped it, wasn't obvious at first. |
Originally Posted by BigCajun
(Post 4821178)
Look closely at your engine fuse.
I shorted a wire against thw engine lift bracket and popped it, wasn't obvious at first. Pardon my ignorance, senior! |
First thing to check is ALL the fuses. Not just a quick eyeball - use a tester and do each one.
The computer fuses are in the driver footwell fuse box. Until they are all proven good, you are just spinning your wheels. |
Originally Posted by StealthTL
(Post 4821254)
First thing to check is ALL the fuses. Not just a quick eyeball - use a tester and do each one.
The computer fuses are in the driver footwell fuse box. Until they are all proven good, you are just spinning your wheels. |
Still in your footwell.
A little curvy panel on the door frame, below the trunk button. |
I will find it and i will change it.
Thank u so much senior! Im PUMPED!!! |
ok, it's at the engine bay, lol. i changed it, and it snapped again and again and again. what could go wrong? i disconnected the coils just to test and it snapped too.. is it definitely a bad/weak ground or any other problem? PS : i cleaned the ground and the body too.
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Hey Charles,
No it's not the coils, took off all 4 connectors to the coil and tried to on it(without coils), and snapped, there goes the 15a engine fuse again. it must be an old bad ground. hunting it down. Hope i find it quick. cant wait to drive it with new coils! |
ok i will recheck all 4 harness and supply wire.
Thanks for the heads up! |
Originally Posted by Okki-Jakarta
(Post 4821355)
ok i will recheck all 4 harness and supply wire.
Thanks for the heads up! If you didn't have the issue before the work you did, then it's likely related to what you worked on. Retrace your steps of everything you did and inspect closely before looking at other things. It could be a coincidence, but I doubt it. |
All 4 connector harnesses are clean and good. still looking.. getting tired but this is my dream car since it came out, so i wont give up lol. dang im too invested!
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Originally Posted by Okki-Jakarta
(Post 4821357)
All 4 connector harnesses are clean and good. still looking.. getting tired but this is my dream car since it came out, so i wont give up lol. dang im too invested!
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Update!
Car is up and running, turns out the ECU is corroded or somesort and had someone fixed it, but new problem arises AC blower not blowing (Display on, AC Compressor on but no air blowing out, no current is flowing to the blower motor) EPS (Cleaned everything but it doesnt goes off, decided to open the module and see, doesnt look good, some what corroded or been serviced before(solder marks)) Are they connected in somewhat? meaning the EPS module got something to do with the AC blower? But the car has no more misfires and revs up to 9k like a champ, BHR FTW! |
Originally Posted by Okki-Jakarta
(Post 4821657)
...............AC blower not blowing ...................
I give up. |
Whoops
Hey y'all, I hate to ask but I've read this thread (as well as others on the same issue) at least 30 times over, and I still can't seem go boot the rx8 back up. So I was removing my UIM last weekend and I pulled one of the biggest rookie mistakes and through my battery in backwards. Unfortunately it now won't start. So here's what I've noticed
The 120a main fuse works SOMETIMES. When it is NOT working, my windows, a.c., radio and power seats all work. At this point the immobilizer is flashing rapidly when the fuse IS working, I'm getting no power to the Windows or to anything else. I have power to all my the lights on my cluster. At this point the immobilizer is off but it still won't start. what I've noticed to is that the fuel pump doesn't prime, nor does it crank when the fuse IS working and when it is NOT working. I'm getting no clicks or anything from it as well. if anyone has any suggestions lemme know. Again sorry for reviving an almost 3 year old threat Marshall. |
and through my battery in backwards.
That's usually fatal. If the main ECU sees reverse power, it usually smokes. Your only hope is that the BTN or Room fuses blew and saved your ass. Otherwise.... |
Fuel pump wont prime or run
Originally Posted by MazdaManiac
(Post 3704874)
Check how you grounded the ignition.
================================================= Vehicle VIN: JM1FE173240119143 Vehicle Manufacturer: Mazda Vehicle Calibration ID: N3Z2EU00013H6020 Current Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no current faults Pending Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no pending faults Historic Fault Log ------------------ ECU reports no historic faults Other discovered fault codes (possibly pending, current or manufacturer specific) ---------------------------------------------------- P0610: Control Module Vehicle Options Error U1900: Unknown code - More information may be available on the web End of report. Well the immobilizer is blinking slow i have the original keys and the original computer in the car i did put my back-up engine in my car and now the fuel pump wont prime when i turn the key on it was fine before i swapped engines. The fuses and the power and ground are fine i checked that first but let me add that the car was down for 3 years with no motor or computer im at a loss for what it could be. |
"down for 3 years with no motor or computer"
If you switched you're ECU to the other car's ECU and not the one original one that came with the car and the keys, The new ECU is going to be looking for the other cars key chip, not the original one which is for the car. I had a problem kinda like this, I took the receiver off from around where you put the key in and taped it under the dash with the old key taped into the hole so the car will read the old cars chip in the key but you can still use the original key that fits the steering column. |
Originally Posted by thebubbadog
(Post 4888931)
"down for 3 years with no motor or computer"
If you switched you're ECU to the other car's ECU and not the one original one that came with the car and the keys, The new ECU is going to be looking for the other cars key chip, not the original one which is for the car. I had a problem kinda like this, I took the receiver off from around where you put the key in and taped it under the dash with the old key taped into the hole so the car will read the old cars chip in the key but you can still use the original key that fits the steering column. |
Most likely it's not you're keys and it's the receiver that reads the key. It could have maybe gone bad and needs replacement
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I googled "rx8 key antenna" to find more.
https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tro...cation-165856/ https://cimg8.ibsrv.net/gimg/www.rx8...18f5ec84c1.jpg |
I thank you very much @thebubbadog
Originally Posted by thebubbadog
(Post 4889069)
Most likely it's not you're keys and it's the receiver that reads the key. It could have maybe gone bad and needs replacement
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