Sturmgezhutz

Heres the issue

2004 high power, manual rx8

Engine blown -> swapped to a new engine today..

Tried to test start the new motor and its tries to start but stalls..

it almost starts, goes around 800rpm and stalls after that..

sounds like a ingnition problem / fuel problem?

any ideas?

plugs = new
Coils & wires = few months old ~5000tkm driven.

bse50

If you double checked the wiring (coils, injectors, various sensors) and vacuum hoses and everything is fine try resetting the ESPS (Key in the ON position, 20 brake stomps and see the oil gauge sweeping).

It may simply be the ecu needing some time to re-adjust itself after all

Sturmgezhutz

are those coils all the same? or is there a certain job for each one? i just randomly put them there from the old engine though...

every connector should be inplace, i took my time replacing the engine to avoid these things...

im little worried about the injectors and their connectors :S i didn't remember correctly where they all went so i assumed by the lenght of the wires :D

and what are those 2 thingys under the fuelrail / injectors? they were red and had connectors.

bse50

Check the workshop manual again for the injectors (you can find it on foxed.ca).

The coils are all the same, as long as the wiring is ok you shouldn't have problems.
Try resetting the ecu and report back!

Sturmgezhutz

ECU reset doen't help, done it 3 times already :P

it have to be in the ingniton / fuel system

my guess is mixed connectors maybe..

bse50

Did you try revving it a little to keep it on? Of course assuming all the wiring is installed straight and there are no vacuum leaks

Mazmart

iTrader: (12)

Test for proper compression. The most common cause of your problem is the injector wiring as mentioned by bse50. Also, coils are: L1,T1,L2T2 starting from the front.

What is the history of the 'new' engine?

Paul.

Sturmgezhutz

i didn't find those wiring diagrams for the injectors...

the history of this motor is unknown, only that i know is

2007 mazda rx8
Tested before removed.
35000miles

Sturmgezhutz

Found the workshop manual from foxed.ca... little dodgy that it's under a rx-7 page..

but those doesen't help so much, cause i didn't find any reasonable or clear wiring diagram showing wire markins or etc...

Sturmgezhutz

OK got it running when giving a gas while starting...

it runs really badly and have to keep it alive with gas pedal...

should i just run it now and then to get it lubed up again after it being dry for a month atleast?

or should i be consirned that there is something wrong... like that injector issue

took couple videos, uploading them to youtube.. urls to follow

Sturmgezhutz

heres the starting video

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Wow
You swapped an engine, could be anything causing that.

I recall forgetting to plug in my Baro sensor and it made the engine run like crap.

Keep us posted, interested in hearing what the problem is, good luck.

Sturmgezhutz

it smokes REALLY much :D

there is a LOT of coolant in the exhaust after the first engine that cracked
so i assume the worst smokes are because of them? but it cant all be..

i took a video from the rear point of view so you can see how much it really buts smoke out..

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Those are the Primary injectors, it's rather important that they are working correctly.

There are 6 fuel injectors in total.
The other injectors or for the OMP

Sturmgezhutz

yeap, i did little reading yesterday @ foxed.ca :P

they should be ok, but i can't be 100% sure.. havent checked them since ive swapped the engine

i just assumed that they work

Sturmgezhutz

hey, atleas i can rent it as a "fogger" for a party

it's kinda boring video, but you get the point.. after ~3min i take my foot off the gas.. it runs for little while @ ~500rpm and dies

Sturmgezhutz

should i run it until i get it warm for the first time?

what do you guys think? should i even run it?

Grace_Excel

iTrader: (5)

I think bse50 may be right, if you have all the connections right, the ecu may just be relearning the trims. Perform the NVRAM reset before you restart the car, start the engine and do not drive it once the rpm holds at 800, let it sit for 5 min or until the engine temp warms up. Otherwise, do what you did in the last YouTube clip by slightly keeping a light foot on the gas, then turn it off and let it cool before restarting. Do these three to five times. You will soon realize that the air pump will seem to be off, which is why the rpm lays around that low. Now, you will know that the engine has learned the trims when you hear the air pump work and notice the rpm reach 1750 at start-up after the engine has cooled off.

Anyway, I didn't have an engine swap but a battery, coils, plugs, and wires changed. I observed the drive cycles, although it only sat parked, three or four times until the engine learned the trims and maintained it's rpm where it should be. I too became frustrated when the engine initially stops if I don't add a little gas to keep it running. And... if the above didn't work, I apologize for wasting your time.

Sturmgezhutz

red the CEL

codes

P 2096 P
P 0118
P 0118 P

fan runs emmediatly after key hits ON position. have done this all the time and giving the 0118 code

2096 code came after i got the car started.

i just tried to run the car warm but it died after couple minutes

i checked the oil level and it's over the high marker (i seems that i have overfilled it by mistake)

can it make any these symptoms or little of it? need to take little of the oil out...

Sturmgezhutz

referring to that P2096 code, o2 sensor?

maybe got some of that coolant on it and it's getting weird readings or something? :o

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Dunno P2096 is likely the rear O2 sensor, measure the catalytic efficiency.
Have you checked the Cat?

I've never been able to get anyone to actually confirm that the P2096 CEL is strictly a rear o2 fault code.
It may well apply to the front O2 as well.

Sturmgezhutz

i don't have a cat because its not necessery in finland 8-)

i do have cat but it don't anything in it so the cel about 2096 can be all about that.. got this few times before with the old engine too..

how about that P0118 and the fan running all the time?

should i bleed the coolant or something if there is air or what's that all about?

Sturmgezhutz

OK something new to report..

Now the car runs idle by itself.. but only 500rpm and a little wobbly.

Second problem, tried first time to get it in gear but seem like the clutch is dead?
i installed a new exedy stage 1 clutch from mazdatrix during the engine swap :o?

third problem, the engine temp cauge is dead? if i run the car like for 5min or more it still won't show anything.

fourth.. an new CEL code P0172 System Too Rich (Bank 1)
and gives thos 2096 and 0118 over and over again too.

have to check the injector connectors tomorrow that every connector is in the right place

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Did you verify this?

You might have a bad front O2 sensor

Make sure the ESS is clean as well.
Believe me, it makes a difference.

Mine got wet and dirty the other day when I washed the car and it ran like crap, wiped the sensor off and zoom zoom .. back to normal

Sturmgezhutz

injector issue is open, will check that tomorrow.

have to do a "to do list" what to check tomorrow

it gives little hope that it runs and now can keep it self a live..

that clutch thing worries me a little, why wouldn't it work