Nope

In an unrelated twist someone offered me a 9.7 compression rotating assembly for a titanium exhaust I have.....it might live on

 

except the early rotors aren't suited for the MSP exhaust, people have used the renny 10:1 rotors in the early engines but anyone doing the opposite probably did not have great results. if the exhaust is worth maybe only $250 then that's fine, otherwise you're on the losing end with parts you won't/shouldn't even use.

 

well i got the exhuast in a trade and had it listed for 400 but wouldve taken 200. its too big to ship so at this point im trading it for a nice book end next to the piston from another engine i blew in a jeep

 

as long as you understand they really have no place in your engine, which it seemed like you had the intention of doing that.

the S5 rotor side seals are half as thick and would be more easily prone to wear and warpage, no scallop to increase port duration and the e-shaft is heavier which would decrease the actual proposed redline of the engine. not to mention the decrease in ratio would mean that compression losses might actually come quicker between rebuilds/flooding issues.

 

I Freed the engine today! Im not giving up yet.

Here are the chain of events.

Pulled the plugs

Turning against compression i was able to start the turn but it was VERY difficult. I turned it over probably a full rotation but it was hard.

I turned it back towards compression and it made it the same one rotation before locking up again. It was a slow progression of difficulty until lock up, not sudden.

At this point i decided to turn it against compression for a while just to see if the difficulty was proportionate to the rotations.

I turned counter clockwise for a while and the difficulty would increase and decrease but i couldnt feel a pattern. then after about 4 or 5 full rotations all of a sudden it came free.

Holly crap! so now i turn it back towards compressions and again free.

It is worth noting i have hydrolocked a jeep once off road and the way it slowly built up pressure by had and when trying to start it reminded me of that incident A LOT

During this whole time there was no grinding sounds or dragging felt through the wrench, just pressure.

I try with the starter and it turns over perfectly fine?

So now the plugs are out and i run the joe the plumber de-flodding procedure.

Put the plugs back in and i get nothing, not even a hickup. I can clearly smell the fuel coming out of the tail pipe

This time i run the deflooding with the plugs in but the fuel pump fuse pulled. Now im starting to hear some pops of combustion and some smoke out of the pipe. If this poor ignition finally starting to fire because its so much leaner in this condition?

I pull the plug wires and go through the de-flodding again this time with the plugs in, pump fuse pulled and plug wires pulled.

Attach everything try to start it and again get nothing, not even a hint of combustion.

So where am i now? failed ignition components? Failing coils would explain the initial loss of power, but enough to stall when i went in neutral? Then once it stalled, is it even possible to hydrolock a rotary engine with its own fuel? I have an older set of coils that were starting to stutter at high rpm but still fired up fine that i was thinking of putting in on Monday.

Any advice over the weekend would be appreciated.

 

Is it possible you have a weakened battery or starter & that's allowing it to re-flood?
You might want to get your battery checked just to eliminate the possibility.
Just a thought. Good luck!

 

I had a battery starter hooked up and had 13.4 volts. Just to be safe I tried it jumped to my jeep and the volts were the same

 

Try squirting some ATF fluid into each housing and try again.

 

Whats that do?

 

helps build compression to force liquid fuel from the engine which is what causes re-flooding to occur in worst case scenarios.

 

I'd use 2 stroke instead of atf - pull some in through the maintenance ports with ess disconnected

 

I got it started and it sounded like crap and smelt like unburnt fuel. sold the car to a guy who already had two blown motors and was going to try to lego brick them together into a single working one and drop it in.

 

No to sound pessimistic here but something very similar happened to me recently. 8000rpm, heard a popping noise and lost considerable power. The car could not accelerate and barely maintain it's speed. When I stopped it immediately stalled (couldn't idle) and the exhaust was extremely hot.

When I tried starting it again a few hours later, the starter turned slowly and when the car finally sputtered somewhat alive, I had to hold the gas otherwise it wouldn't idle at all.

Has the car towed to the dealer and the diagnostic was 0 compression on one of the two rotors. Means that while one rotor was running fine, the other one was basicly shooting unburned gas in the exhaust, which also melted the cat. Had the engine and the cat replaced under warranty and of course now it runs fine.

If I were you I would get a compression test done to see if there's still some life into it, or it died like mine did.

 

Robing parts from three dead piston engines to make one working engine is just bad and depending on why each one failed is like playing Russian rullet with five of the six rounds loaded most likely ain't going to work. Now apply this to why and how a rotary fails you just loaded the last round you lost all ready and didn't even get started.

Edit

Yeah I was just making a comment about what the buyer was intending.

 

guys, he sold car. though the guy he sold the car to isn't going to find a cheap or easy road ahead

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