malignant

To start with, I'm in Texas, anyone who has been to Texas knows the heat and humidity can be quite ridiculous. So this 4th of July, at 5:30pm, when it started off about 100 degrees F, I took a journey from Austin to New Braunfels and then San Antonio. Now about 7:00pm when I arrive in San Antonio, I notice my radiator light is starting to intermittantly go on/off. During this time I have the AC on, so I flip it off and the light goes away. I go to the store and grab some 50/50 though to put in the reservoir to make sure it was full.

This point is when I notice my car is not running right, prior to this I had mostly been cruising at highway speeds, but when I have to stop at lights my RPMs are dropping extremely quickly and coming close to a stall. Then when accelerating <4k rpms the engine is dragging and there is no power at all. At above 4k rpms the engine continues to slowly progress, but the engine noise dramatically increases. After I fill up the coolant, I went to my destination, but as it truly sucked(Woodlawn Lake), I give my car about 1/2 an hour of downtime and decide to head back to Austin. Car still drags through the RPMs, but runs fine while I'm cruising at highway in 6th gear. This time there is no radiator light flashing. I make it back into Austin roughly around 9pm, exit the highway, and while rolling ~40mph put the car into neutral, and it stalls. It will not start just by turning the key, so I roll start it into 4th. Stop at the light, rpms drop dramatically and the car ends up stalling again. So I limp the rest of the way home having to press the gas while slowing down for lights.

Now, this entire time I have gas, the temp gauge is showing just under half, car is a 2005 MT with 54k miles, only mod is an AEM CAI.

So to continue, the next day I start the car about midday so about 90 degrees, and it seems to run just fine. Until about 20 minutes of driving. At which point it begins to bog down yet again through the RPMs. Same thing happened yesterday as well. Today I have the day off work so I am definitely open to suggestions cause I am willing to do what I can.

Thanks for reading, and I apologize for the extra thread I just wasn't sure where this would truly fit as it seems to combine several of the different problems.

I8U

iTrader: (1)

Kinda sounds like your cat is dead. Might want to have it checked it out. I wouldn't worry about the coolant light, since you said once you added some fluid it never came back on. If your car overheated, believe me yoo would know, the needle would have gone all the way to the right really quick.

malignant

I just had my inspection renewed last week, and it passed with flying colors. Unless you think it would still pass emissions with a dead cat?

I8U

iTrader: (1)

It could pass if you you just drove it straight over to the inspection station. The only reason I say to have it checked is because you explained you were a long road trip with little down time.

But after reading your post again, it could possibly be your fuel pump. These pumps are notorious for failing suddenly at around the mileage you indicated. Mine did the same thing, out of nowhere very hard to accelerate, it would stall sometimes also. You can get a replacement pretty cheap now, new pre '09 pumps go for under $150.

malignant

That's what I did with the inspection, yeah. It's a mile from my place lol.

As for the fuel pump is there any way for me to verify if that is the issue?

malignant

I poked around my engine bay as well, and found that the leftover hose from the CAI that is supposed to be capped...well the cap cracked, so I hopped over to advance and grabbed a new rubber cap. Still I doubt that was the only problem

malignant

Ok now I could really use some help guys. Please.

Now, a week later I was driving along an access road and then my car turned itself off and was just engine braking whenever I tried to rollstart it again. The car has now thrown a CEL, and I had it towed to my apartment complex as I can't get it looked at until Monday since the shops are all closed.

So what I have is a CEL.

I tried disconnecting the battery, but nothing. When I try to crank it to turn it on there is no starter or ignition sounds, just silence. Battery is fine, I even tried jumping it just to be certain.

I'm extremely worried as to what this could be as I am driving a 2005, so it is no longer under the 4 years/50k miles warranty, so I can only hope for an engine issue if it isn't something I can do myself. Or an issue that will magically clear up, but ideas please.

I8U

iTrader: (1)

Check all your fuses, under the hood and inside the car. Also, borrow a code reader and see what the CEL is for.

malignant

Fuses look good from what I can tell...granted it's also 1 in the morning and I'm outside with a flashlight. Another thing I noticed when turning the key is that in addition to everything lighting up, I get the light with the car and key flashing very fast.

As far as CEL code, would advance auto have the tool to check the code?

malignant

So I borrowed a OBD II code reader...and I get nothing but error in connection.

olddragger

iTrader: (3)

pull the engine fuse in the engine bay fuse box and verify that it is good.
olddragger

EDZRIDE

iTrader: (1)

You'll need a reader that's CAN compliant.

malignant

It's a Actron Autoscanner, I looked at the website but I don't see if it says that it is.

I8U

iTrader: (1)

+1 with olddragger, sounds like a blown ENGINE fuse...mine did the same thing when I did my ignition swap. I blew the ENGINE fuse in the engine bay fuse box and the security light flashed (the flashing key).

Flashwing

The initial description you gave almost sounds like a failing fuel pump. One of the typical failures for these pumps is overheating after a long period of time of driving. When I experienced this, however, the problem only occured when the pump was trying to switch to high output. When it was at low output the pump was fine such as idle and slow speeds.

The only real way to verify it's the fuel pump is to get a device that can read your OBDII engine data. A failing pump will yield high air/fuel ratios under normal driving conditions. I saw 20:1 at WOT. Also your Short Term Fuel Trims will skyrocket to max of 24% during this time.

The coolant situation could have been a low coolant amount. If you had to fill it then more than likely you were low. Still, there have been issues in the past with faulty sensors which needed replacement.

If you were simply cruising your temperatures at 100 degrees would still be fine. No doubt the car would be hot but if your gauge didn't move then your water temps were below 230 degrees. Around 260 degrees is the failure point for engine coolant temperatures.

This isn't good. If that's what you are seeing then your engine immobilizer has somehow lost the programming for your keys. This happened to me when my PCM failed. I would turn the key, the security light would flash and nothing would happen.

The only way to get that fixed is at the mazda dealership. It could be as simple as reprogrramming your keys or as complex as a PCM replacement.

I agree with checking the fuses but if the car is unmodified (you said you only have an AEM) then there shouldn't be much of a reason fuses are blowing. It's good to rule it out though.

shazy

Could coils cause a problem like this? You never know...
and I do agree on the fuel pump, my cavalier did this. It would randomly stall and if it was under half a tank the car wouldn't even start.

Flashwing

Ignition coils could be an issue. If they were, it would have to be one of the leading coils as trailing failures are not something you notice right away.

Problems occuring after a long trip usually point to the fuel pump.

The security light could be a fuse issue, a key programming issue or even a problem with the PCM. Either way, if it's not the fuse it will need to be serviced at the dealership.

malignant

I pulled all the fuses that have to do with engine, power, and security, but they are all good. So it seems to be pointing to PCM. Having it towed to the dealership this morning. Hopefully this will all be covered under warranty or this could be ridiculous.

malignant

∩__∩∩∩∩∩∩____ = Communication error between the keyless control module and the PCM (no response or mismatched conditions)

That's the code I'm getting from my immobilizer. Now the question is, would the PCM throw a CEL?

Flashwing

There shouldn't be any reason it's not. The only thing that would void it is physical damage (like you hitting it with a hammer), wiring or something electrical showing tampering.

If it just dies then you should get a new one under warranty.

malignant

Yeah, I was just there, they show I'm out of basic warranty, but covered under engine and powertrain.

Nubo

My 2 cents - try an engine de-carbon procedure. When the engine gets hot clearances expand. If the seals are stuck in their grooves they can't react and you lose compression.

malignant

Ok so to update, apparently I blew a 10A fuse that I didn't think to check. And there was a hose that fouled up my belts causing the CEL. So, $177 right there.

Then...I drive it out, and everytime the car goes in neutral it stalls. I'm driving 60mph on the highway, throw it in neutral...stall. So yeah, right back to the dealership.

Razz1

I believe the car is designed to stall if you put it in neutral at 60 mph.

Its a program fail safe.

The reason the car is stalling is they may have rest the ECU or disconected the battery.


Drive it a few cycles it should be ok.

malignant

Oh it stalls no matter what speed I'm in is what I'm trying to say. As long as it goes into neutral, or the clutch goes in, it stalls. But the dealership has it and they say compression is low. So just waiting for new engine authorization.