ECU/PCM "flash" Info/questions
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U Flash
I checked mine today, i have the "U" flash "sticker on door jamb says 11-26-2007" by Mazda and verifies w/Mazda VIN serial # search at dealer, this flash might explain why engine was so clean. "J" flash done previous year b4 the "U". It Runs Gr8t, it does love oil though 1/3 qt. every fill-up
, if i get on it , but then again this car is so fun to rev, i'm waiting for it to hug me back...
, if i get on it , but then again this car is so fun to rev, i'm waiting for it to hug me back...
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ECU/PCM flash
I would ask the dealer to check there computer (Mazda warranty vehicle history report) the service Manager should know how to retrieve this report, i would not rely on them telling you, you must be the punctual one here just like the Dr. giving you a prescription ask all the questions until you understand and feel comfortable, i noticed after looking at my report the dealer ran for me the U flash is not on the report but my local dealer did the Flash and the sticker is on the driver door jamb. I will have discussion with them on Monday morning...
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U Flash update
Visited Mazda dealer (Auffenberg O'Fallon IL) and got the repair history on why it got the "U Flash" apparently the dealer whom the guy traded (original owner) in on a Chrysler product, flooded the car and had to have it towed, gas cleaned out of engine and U flash done, Chryco dealer refused to have battery replaced and starter upgrade. Dumb *** Chrysler dealer 
knew the battery was insufficient, i had the dealer i bought it from replace it before i purchased the car. Mazda told me anytime car is in for service it is always in their best intrest and ours to do "ANY" PCM Flash updates. Getting starter upgrade tommorow.
knew the battery was insufficient, i had the dealer i bought it from replace it before i purchased the car. Mazda told me anytime car is in for service it is always in their best intrest and ours to do "ANY" PCM Flash updates. Getting starter upgrade tommorow.
Pcm Flash & new starter
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Joined: Feb 2005
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From: SoCal
04 with 40K miles - manual trans
What is the latest flash? I got mine done in Sept 08. Dealer said it was for 'improved performance'. Well, the performance did not improve (you can't get more torque out of a 1.3L rotary engine, period - and the thing always performed very well >4K rpm) but I lost 1.5 mpg and now I have this weird very high resonance vibration. The engine sounds more like Lauren Bacall than Beonce, if you know what I mean. A bit gravely. After running with this flash for 3K miles the vibration is now at a point to where at the end of my 30 minute morning commute my hands and feet feel like I've been in a low electrical field or something. Very strange buzzing sensation (and no I don't partake of any substance abuse during the commute).
Anyone else experience either the mpg drop or the weird sound/vibration situation?
Thanks
What is the latest flash? I got mine done in Sept 08. Dealer said it was for 'improved performance'. Well, the performance did not improve (you can't get more torque out of a 1.3L rotary engine, period - and the thing always performed very well >4K rpm) but I lost 1.5 mpg and now I have this weird very high resonance vibration. The engine sounds more like Lauren Bacall than Beonce, if you know what I mean. A bit gravely. After running with this flash for 3K miles the vibration is now at a point to where at the end of my 30 minute morning commute my hands and feet feel like I've been in a low electrical field or something. Very strange buzzing sensation (and no I don't partake of any substance abuse during the commute).
Anyone else experience either the mpg drop or the weird sound/vibration situation?
Thanks
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 185
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From: SoCal
04 with 40K miles - manual trans
I got mine reflashed in Sept 08. Dealer said it was for 'improved performance'. Well, the performance did not improve (you can't get more torque out of a 1.3L rotary engine, period - and the thing always performed very well >4K rpm) but I lost 1.5 mpg and now I have this weird very high resonance vibration. The engine sounds more like Lauren Bacall than Beonce, if you know what I mean. A bit gravely. After running with this flash for 3K miles the vibration is now at a point to where at the end of my 30 minute morning commute my hands and feet feel like I've been in a low electrical field or something. Very strange buzzing sensation (and no I don't partake of any substance abuse during the commute).
Anyone else experience either the mpg drop or the weird sound/vibration situation?
I got mine reflashed in Sept 08. Dealer said it was for 'improved performance'. Well, the performance did not improve (you can't get more torque out of a 1.3L rotary engine, period - and the thing always performed very well >4K rpm) but I lost 1.5 mpg and now I have this weird very high resonance vibration. The engine sounds more like Lauren Bacall than Beonce, if you know what I mean. A bit gravely. After running with this flash for 3K miles the vibration is now at a point to where at the end of my 30 minute morning commute my hands and feet feel like I've been in a low electrical field or something. Very strange buzzing sensation (and no I don't partake of any substance abuse during the commute).
Anyone else experience either the mpg drop or the weird sound/vibration situation?
Hey zoom44,
Thanks for the part numbers you provided.
I visited my dealer yesterday and asked to check my ECU version to make sure there's no update available.
Computer showed that I have the latest version available. I have a 2004 MT and the version is N3Z2-18-881U
You mention that lastest version for 2004MT is N3Z2-18-881T
Does this mean that my dealer didnt have the latest T version available?
Thanks for the part numbers you provided.
I visited my dealer yesterday and asked to check my ECU version to make sure there's no update available.
Computer showed that I have the latest version available. I have a 2004 MT and the version is N3Z2-18-881U
You mention that lastest version for 2004MT is N3Z2-18-881T
Does this mean that my dealer didnt have the latest T version available?
yes its confusing
there are different "part numbers" based on different Model years now. in the beginning there was mnr etc but with different model years they had to separate the flashes because of changes in regulations and because of a physical change to the pcm . canada bulletins may list a different number but the underlying flash numbers are as i stated above
2004 A/T (All) N3Z1-18-881U SW-N3Z1EU000
2004 M/T (All) N3Z2-18-881T SW-N3Z2ET000
2005 A/T (Fed) N3ZA-18-881H SW-N3ZAEH000
2005 M/T (Fed) N3ZB-18-881G SW-N3ZBEG000
2005 A/T (Cal) N3ZC-18-881H SW-N3ZCEH000
2005 M/T (Cal) N3ZD-18-881G SW-N3ZDEG000
2006 A/T (Fed) N3M6-18-881F SW-N3M6EF000
2006 M/T (Fed) N3M5-18-881F SW-N3M5EF000
2006 A/T (Cal) N3M2-18-881F SW-N3M2EF000
2006 M/T (Cal) N3M1-18-881F SW-N3M1EF000
where the letters/numbers before the "e" are for the model year/transmission/ emissions spec and the letter after the "e" are for the flash level.
2004 & 2005 AT flashes are one letter further on than their comparative MT level. When we talk about M N R etc we are talking about 2004 MY levels. 2005 2006 and 2007 codes started later than the 2004 year so they are at a different point in the alphabetical nomenclature. The newest flash level for your vehicle is "K". as far as i can tell for now the 2006s and 2007s are on the same flash part starting with N3M1/2/5/6 .
whenever it says"fed" that means the US FEDERAL EMISSIONS SPEC and includes the Canadian emissions spec. Cali means California and other states that have picked up the California emissions spec.
there are different "part numbers" based on different Model years now. in the beginning there was mnr etc but with different model years they had to separate the flashes because of changes in regulations and because of a physical change to the pcm . canada bulletins may list a different number but the underlying flash numbers are as i stated above2004 A/T (All) N3Z1-18-881U SW-N3Z1EU000
2004 M/T (All) N3Z2-18-881T SW-N3Z2ET000
2005 A/T (Fed) N3ZA-18-881H SW-N3ZAEH000
2005 M/T (Fed) N3ZB-18-881G SW-N3ZBEG000
2005 A/T (Cal) N3ZC-18-881H SW-N3ZCEH000
2005 M/T (Cal) N3ZD-18-881G SW-N3ZDEG000
2006 A/T (Fed) N3M6-18-881F SW-N3M6EF000
2006 M/T (Fed) N3M5-18-881F SW-N3M5EF000
2006 A/T (Cal) N3M2-18-881F SW-N3M2EF000
2006 M/T (Cal) N3M1-18-881F SW-N3M1EF000
where the letters/numbers before the "e" are for the model year/transmission/ emissions spec and the letter after the "e" are for the flash level.
2004 & 2005 AT flashes are one letter further on than their comparative MT level. When we talk about M N R etc we are talking about 2004 MY levels. 2005 2006 and 2007 codes started later than the 2004 year so they are at a different point in the alphabetical nomenclature. The newest flash level for your vehicle is "K". as far as i can tell for now the 2006s and 2007s are on the same flash part starting with N3M1/2/5/6 .
whenever it says"fed" that means the US FEDERAL EMISSIONS SPEC and includes the Canadian emissions spec. Cali means California and other states that have picked up the California emissions spec.
Another question that intrigues me regarding reseting ECU with the 20brakes pump maneuver.
Whenever I reset my ECU using this technique, the car becomes a BEAST for 1 engine cycle. It becomes SO different : throttle responds so quickly, torque is higher at mid rage, RPM is smooth and constant, the car feels suddenly ligther and specially specially (the part I dont understand) the gearsbox becomes so smooth and shifthing is much much more easier.
I simply need to perform the 20brakes, turn on the car, and already the gearbox feels so smooth, so 'neutral'...
Is there any explanation to that? I just love to drive my car with ECU reset which is somehow ridiculous...
Also, whenever we do a ECU and PCM reflash (odometer + 20brakes), is there any SPECIAL learning driving routine that should be used? I know it was mentionned in one of the TSB to drive the car for 30sec at RPM blablabla...
Is it necessary and important?
I'm sorry if these questions were answered before, simply guide me!
Thanks all!
Whenever I reset my ECU using this technique, the car becomes a BEAST for 1 engine cycle. It becomes SO different : throttle responds so quickly, torque is higher at mid rage, RPM is smooth and constant, the car feels suddenly ligther and specially specially (the part I dont understand) the gearsbox becomes so smooth and shifthing is much much more easier.
I simply need to perform the 20brakes, turn on the car, and already the gearbox feels so smooth, so 'neutral'...
Is there any explanation to that? I just love to drive my car with ECU reset which is somehow ridiculous...
Also, whenever we do a ECU and PCM reflash (odometer + 20brakes), is there any SPECIAL learning driving routine that should be used? I know it was mentionned in one of the TSB to drive the car for 30sec at RPM blablabla...
Is it necessary and important?
I'm sorry if these questions were answered before, simply guide me!
Thanks all!
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
Hey zoom44,
Thanks for the part numbers you provided.
I visited my dealer yesterday and asked to check my ECU version to make sure there's no update available.
Computer showed that I have the latest version available. I have a 2004 MT and the version is N3Z2-18-881U
You mention that lastest version for 2004MT is N3Z2-18-881T
Does this mean that my dealer didnt have the latest T version available?
Thanks for the part numbers you provided.
I visited my dealer yesterday and asked to check my ECU version to make sure there's no update available.
Computer showed that I have the latest version available. I have a 2004 MT and the version is N3Z2-18-881U
You mention that lastest version for 2004MT is N3Z2-18-881T
Does this mean that my dealer didnt have the latest T version available?
Registered
iTrader: (4)
Joined: Aug 2004
Posts: 12,255
Likes: 8
From: Buddhist Monastery, High Himalaya Mtns. of Tibet
Another question that intrigues me regarding reseting ECU with the 20brakes pump maneuver.
Whenever I reset my ECU using this technique, the car becomes a BEAST for 1 engine cycle. It becomes SO different : throttle responds so quickly, torque is higher at mid rage, RPM is smooth and constant, the car feels suddenly ligther and specially specially (the part I dont understand) the gearsbox becomes so smooth and shifthing is much much more easier.
I simply need to perform the 20brakes, turn on the car, and already the gearbox feels so smooth, so 'neutral'...
Is there any explanation to that? I just love to drive my car with ECU reset which is somehow ridiculous...
Also, whenever we do a ECU and PCM reflash (odometer + 20brakes), is there any SPECIAL learning driving routine that should be used? I know it was mentionned in one of the TSB to drive the car for 30sec at RPM blablabla...
Is it necessary and important?
I'm sorry if these questions were answered before, simply guide me!
Thanks all!
Whenever I reset my ECU using this technique, the car becomes a BEAST for 1 engine cycle. It becomes SO different : throttle responds so quickly, torque is higher at mid rage, RPM is smooth and constant, the car feels suddenly ligther and specially specially (the part I dont understand) the gearsbox becomes so smooth and shifthing is much much more easier.
I simply need to perform the 20brakes, turn on the car, and already the gearbox feels so smooth, so 'neutral'...
Is there any explanation to that? I just love to drive my car with ECU reset which is somehow ridiculous...
Also, whenever we do a ECU and PCM reflash (odometer + 20brakes), is there any SPECIAL learning driving routine that should be used? I know it was mentionned in one of the TSB to drive the car for 30sec at RPM blablabla...
Is it necessary and important?
I'm sorry if these questions were answered before, simply guide me!
Thanks all!
is there a good/better/particular way of driving to make the PCM relearn the expected settings?
is it normal that my car becomes so much smoother and faster when I reset ECU? What about the relationship with the gearbox? I can tell the difference right away when changing gears even in neutral.
Thanks
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Joined: Feb 2005
Posts: 185
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From: SoCal
good ole' wankel spanking
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From: Strongsville, Ohio
okqy so if i dont know what flash i currently have on mine, how can i find out? i have an 04 and as to my knowledge its never been messed with as far as the pcm. so should i ask for a new flash? and if so which one?
3-wheeler
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 2,734
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From: Phoenix
Only the dealership can tell you which flash you currently have on the PCM. You'd want the most up to date flash mazda has released.
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Joined: Jun 2009
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I would be interested to hear about these secret menus. Tell me about them please.
Unless this poster knows something of which I am unaware - there ain't no secret menus and the Nav unit has no direct connection to any part of the car other than the placement and electrical power connection to the car.
The easiest way for you to gain the "flash" knowledge is to look under the hood. The dealer placed a tag with the flash information normally to the hood lip. Or stop by your dealer and have him run your Vin.
EDIT: Why worry - by a Cobb AP and then you don't need to worry about which flash you are on.
Unless this poster knows something of which I am unaware - there ain't no secret menus and the Nav unit has no direct connection to any part of the car other than the placement and electrical power connection to the car.
The easiest way for you to gain the "flash" knowledge is to look under the hood. The dealer placed a tag with the flash information normally to the hood lip. Or stop by your dealer and have him run your Vin.
EDIT: Why worry - by a Cobb AP and then you don't need to worry about which flash you are on.
Last edited by Phil's 8; Aug 11, 2009 at 08:08 AM.
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Thank you Spirograph - I will try this tonight just for a kick - never heard of it nor see it before.
