Mr.We$t

iTrader: (1)

So recently the car has been acting funny I'm going to try and be as detailed as possible to get as much assistance as I can!!

05 automatic
40k miles
original coils
plugs 5kmiles
wires 5kmiles

when the car is cold
- hard start
- Idles rough at 900 with fluctuating rpm
- car vibrates alot
- put in gear header knock alot against cross member
- takes long to change gears when shifting
- When tapping throttle to reverse car shuts off
- in upper rpms car is weak and sounds like it's struggle to get to red line
-smells like gas alot more then usual
- when coming to a stop rpms drop to 900 then upto 1000
- excessive amount of popping from the exhaust
- hard to put car in park and when it does go it clunks
when warmed up
- downshifting from 4th to 3rd has no power change 3rd is as slow as 4th no matter what the rpms are
-when I let off the throttle car wants to shut off (drops really fast to 9k then jumps back up b4 it can shut off)
- vibrates alot
- smells of gas alot
- when climbing in rpms exahust pops like crazy
- car drinks coolant in a matter of days

I replaced my throttle body intake manifold
I have an aem intake boost brothers header rx7 store midpipe and Mazdaspeed exhaust!
Just ordered some coils and gotta order engine mounts on Friday

Jus wanna kno from these symptoms is this engine fried and does anyone have a compression reader in jersey that I can borrow

ronx8

sounds like something is wrong indeed.

definitely look into a compression test and search similar symptoms.

where you stated 4rd gear is the same as 3rd sounds like you have a lack of power. that is a symptom that isnt good.

Tweek

sounds like bad compression

Pico

iTrader: (2)

Sounds like in reman time.

Coolant leaking inside the rotor housing equals destruction.

Mr.We$t

iTrader: (1)

Crap on a stick I jus moved to jersey so Im still tryna learn my way around and not havin a car isn't gonna b good right now

Mr.We$t

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone kno a rough estimate of how much a compression test will cost

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

Generally it should be between $89 and $120, based on the dealership's diagnosis fee. If it fails and is covered under warranty, the test is free. Some dealerships only charge their cost on it, which is in the $40 range, or do it for free, but you generally have to have a good reputation with them for that.

Some rape you with $300+, don't fall for that.

Mr.We$t

iTrader: (1)

Ok thanx I'll try and find a dealer as close as possible