Mazurfer

Hey, that's a really good point!
Glad you finally arrived.........I've been waiting for other ideas!

ShinkaEvo

iTrader: (3)

Yeah, already bleed the air.
Just got a new cap, same psi, maybe I should have get a higher one...
The inside of the original cap is a bit loose, i don't know if that's it, cuz' the new cap is pretty tied.

So far so good, and we'll see...

auzoom

I have been really slack with my coolant and haven't flushed in about 18 months. I started to get the coolant low light when there was plenty of fluid so decided it was time to do a flush and clean the overflow bottle. The problem only really happened when I was at constant rpm for a few minutes, ie highway.

Unfortunately while removing the overflow bottle I failed to read up and note the proper procedure and broke the connector on top of the OEM radiator. I now have a BHR Radiator on the way but thats all another story.

My overflow bottle had a LOT of crap built up. I have flushed with water and removed a lot of it. I have filled it up with acetic acid (White Vinegar) overnight and that really didnt do a lot. I then tried citric acid but again nothing. Guess I will just leave it plugged up with some fluid in it and hope it loosens some of the remaining gunk. Then when the radiator turns up will see how it goes. Also going to get a new cap just in case.

Cheers

Andrew

twistedwankel

iTrader: (6)

I thoroughly cleaned my 7 year old reservoir with various bleaching agents and final hose blasts (still slightly yellow). Soaked it in vinegar for nearly a month stirring weekly and the float (although free to slide up and down now) sinks like the Titanic in water. I had bought a new reservoir when I replaced the OEM radiator with a 3 row aluminum so this was merely a test prompted by this great thread. Knowing what I know now I wouldn't have replaced the original reservoir - just cleaned and left it unplugged.

ShinkaEvo

iTrader: (3)

Quick update:

Since I changed to the new cap, the boiling stops, no more coolant leak.
But my sensor eventually failed. lol, so I just unplugged it for now...

Mazurfer

Just want to make sure I understand you.................so you are in the camp that believes the float just looses buoyancy over X amount of time as I do?

twistedwankel

iTrader: (6)

Absolutely agree with you.
(The floating magnet works the switch perfectly when turned upside down but has no buoyancy.)

Mazurfer

Okay, I just wanted to make sure as I still want to compile the results so to speak, so I can kinda keep the thread updated. I went back and sort of put the running results(if you will) in the first post, so those that don't want to read the entire thread can skip to the chase.

I do think cleaning the bottle helps, but that doesn't seem to last very long. The reality might just be that when it's taken out for a cleaning that the magnetic float actually dries out a little bit and then when put back in it starts to absorb coolant again over time and temp, get's heavy yet again............and WALLA.

Mazurfer

Vindication is so sweet on occasion!

Notice what it says under "Description".


Check it out!

I also spot what I think is a very, very important item. Check your VIN number because according to how this reads, I could have replaced just the bottle and not the sensor itself(the reed switch) since I have an Oct. 05 build date, but I'll have to confirm that against my VIN.
This assumes of course you can actually buy the bottle without the sensor.................and not sure you can.
The float(the culprit in most cases) come with the bottle and not the sensor itself.

Also...........this implies Tommy needs to do an update to the finishline site as it doesn't list this bulletin.



If you want to check to see if your sensor is bad before attempting to buy the bottle itself, or whether you need the sensor and the bottle, then do this with the bottle still in the car:


1.) Unplug the sensor at the connector located to the left of the bottle.

2.) On the sensor side of the connector, use an ohm meter and check the resistance between the two terminals. With it unplugged, and assuming you have adequate coolant level, and a "good" float, you will measure > 2meg ohms. This means the reed switch(sensor)switch is open meaning............
a.) You have adequate coolant and........
b.) The float is okay and floating like it should be.

3.) If you measure less than say 100 ohms(I forget the actial number and finally threw away my old butcher shaft and magnet, but I think it was 10 ohms), then the float is riding low on the shaft, the reed switch has closed, and the float has lost buoyancy!

ASH8

Dave, perhaps I can add some information here to simplify things.
You have not or are not reading the Bulletin correctly as YES you can Now just Buy the Tank ONLY (N3Y1-15-351) and the Tank with Sensor (no pressure cap) (N3H1-15-351G).

ALL RX-8's S1 and S2 produced before May 19th,2009 Will have the "Faulty Float" -Tank Installed.

If you have had your Tank replaced with N3H1-15-350M (ONLY) you have the latest and greatest.

Or if your S2 RX-8 was produced after May,19th, 2009 you have N3H1-15-350M already.

ALL other "iterations" are Defective.

Also, It appears there is NO Extended Warranty for this Bulletin and Repair.
It Only applies to Customers who Complain that their Coolant Light comes ON.
And..THIS REPAIR Will be covered under Mazda's New Limited Warranty term.


All "Defective" Iterations..

N3H1-15-350E Original
N3H1-15-350F Used from May 19th 2003 PRODUCTION
N3H1-15-350G Used from Sept 18th 2003
N3H1-15-350H Used from May 22nd 2005
N3H1-15-350J Used from July 1st 2005
N3H1-15-350L Used from Oct 1st 2008

Plus, IF you had any of the above Complete Tank Assemblies replaced under Warranty you still have a "Defective" Tank Unit.
That will give you Dash Coolant Light issue...eventually.

BELOW here is the same TSB as Dave posted above, just a little "Clearer" on the eyes..

ASH8

Dave,

This Bulleting is a little bewildering...lets see If I get it correctly..

They are saying that the "Float" absorbs Water and Sinks, OK, and have now modified Tank and Sensor and I guess Float.

However,They also say ..

Up to July 1, 2005, Replace the tank with sensor.
From July 1, 2005, Replace TANK ONLY.

So if you purchase the TANK only, does it come with a new Float?, after all it is the FLOAT that sinks/absorbs coolant over time.
IF the 'TANK only' does not come with a new Float, then you are 'reusing' a Float that is over 5 years old?

This really needs to be cleared up by someone buying the two new parts and telling us what is exactly included.
Edit: Both new TSB replacement Parts Comes with NEW FLOAT.

WARNING
The above Production Dates assumes you still have the ORIGINAL Installed Tank, IF, you have had the tank Replaced over the years that Production Date information is somewhat USELESS.

nycgps

iTrader: (1)

*rolling my eyes*

if someone willing to buy the bottle later sure. :P

ASH8

Dave,

I am putting this here in response to the TS Bulletin and to help those who have had their Tanks Replaced on making a decision, if they want to.

Now, this information applies ONLY to those who have ALREADY had their Coolant Tanks Replaced with the following replacement Tank by PART Number.

N3H1-15-350E Repair Existing Tank with New "Tank with Sensor" P/N N3H1-15-351G as per TSB.
N3H1-15-350F Repair Existing Tank with New "Tank with Sensor" P/N N3H1-15-351G as per TSB.
N3H1-15-350G Repair Existing Tank with New "Tank with Sensor" P/N N3H1-15-351G as per TSB.
N3H1-15-350H Repair Existing Tank with New "Tank with Sensor" P/N N3H1-15-351G as per TSB.
N3H1-15-350J Repair Existing Tank with New "Tank Only" P/N N3Y1-15-351 as per TSB.
N3H1-15-350L Repair Existing Tank with New "Tank Only" P/N N3Y1-15-351 as per TSB.

OR if you do not know and or do not want to go to all the Trouble of Pulling Tank apart and Installing either of the above parts
you can just replace the TANK Assembly again with the Latest and Greatest and last P/N N3H1-15-350M.
For Most Owners it will only costs an extra $63, (at the moment).
Some how I think the 350M will increase in price once existing stocks are sold out.

Mazurfer

No problemo.............it was just something I had located.
Yeah, the date is mysterious mate. My car is an Oct 05 build date and my float definitely absorbed and sank. So who knows about that date.....that's what I found strange.

The only thing I was really interested in was..............."it is apparently the float".

Not sure I put it here or in another thread, but I put how to test that sensor before buying both the sensor and bottle now, cause as we both hopefully suspect, the reed switch seldom will fail............. and IF I read it correctly......you may save the sensor and just buy the bottle...........which would have to come with the "new" float. Course if the sensor is like $5.00, then who really gives a damn!

Mazurfer

That's how I read it and maybe "J" agrees?
I put all my response in blue above.
Again, not a giant issue in the grand scheme, just thought I'd post what I found and see what you though/came up with.

ASH8

I am now certain the new Replacement Parts will come with a new Float.

If you want to do the repair Job, I would go with the N3H1-15-351G Tank with Sensor, it is ONLY around $24 more than the Tank, all you have to do then is replace it and re-use your old Pressure Cap.

The way to go for all owners....

Mazurfer

Yep............totally agree. If you gonna buy the bottle(float comes with it), just buy the damn part number that includes the sensor as well.

Again, just wanted to know that we finally got around to the right answer on the float absorbing being the cause and post it.



N3H1-15-351G Tank with Sensor is the way to go!

ASH8

Yep, Agreed!

I just posted ALL the other information, to try and Stop all the questions, of "I had this 350H fitted then", what do I do...blah, blah, blah.

The 351G IS the Best value and easiest one to do.

I can't understand the factory even making the other option (Tank ONLY), to save them what a few dollars for the few S2's (like mine) that are still covered under warranty?...that is provided their Dash Light comes on, as there is No extended Warranty.
There is an extra Labor cost (time) to them for the Tank only repair Option.

Mazurfer

Check this out!
Get'em while they are hot..........Good price people!

$79.95 if you go without the sensor(N3Y1-15-351)........and ............$99.95 if you get the sensor(N3H1-15-351G).

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...cat=336&page=1

Ash................checkout the ordering info selection!
Don't know when it appeared, but had to be recent! (ha ha ha)

ASH8

Sorry Dave, YES he is a little cheaper than Monts..

Can you PM me on the Ordering Info Selection, can't see what you are meaning...sorry..

auzoom

For those in Aus, Finishline charge $160 US for shipping, Online Mazda Parts ... $55 US and are only $2 more expensive.

Ash, I think he is referring to the commentary as follows:

• For VINs JM1FE****** 100000 to 157837 (built before July 1, 2005), replace the tank with sensor.

• For VINs JM1FE****** 157838 to 403405 (built on or after July 1, 2005), replace the tank only.

ASH8

WARNING
The above Production Dates assumes you still have an ORIGINAL Japan fitted Tank, IF, you have had the Tank replaced over the years the Production Date information is somewhat USELESS.

Just go with N3H1-15-351G, which is the Complete Tank Assembly minus the Pressure CAP.

As the TSB Bulletin says, Reuse your existing CAP.

The Finishlines Pic is incorrect as it shows Tank with new CAP attached, the pic is in fact a N3H1-15-350M.

Just order N3H1-15-351G which will fit ALL model RX-8's.

As I said, IF you already have had the N3H1-15-350M Tank installed under warranty, you already have the latest Float, Sensor and Tank....No need to do anything.

It will be interesting Dave and Andrew to see if the 350M and 351G new float will last, it has been in later Series 2 for only 20 months...time will tell I guess.

With this one I really cant understand WHY Mazda took so darn long to rectify this!...if they have.

auzoom

Ash it's interesting, I wonder how long Mazda hav known the issue is the float. As was pointed out here, when I first took apart my coolant bottle to see what the issue was I also notice the float wouldn't float properly. Mazda have a knack of fixing things when a thread like this comes up.

Mazurfer

Well.....here's my theory on that "auzoom".
Mazda must be aware how many coolant bottles are sold and/or used in warranty work.
As the numbers begin to show they must say............."WTF is going on" and start looking into it.
There were many threads on this site(mine is but one) and of course there are numerous other sites as well, plus all the data from dealers.
This thread was started approx in September of 09 and TSB is dated July of 2010.

ASH8

Dave you are DEAD Wrong....Sorry Right!