i get the noise every morning "right after" i installed the ap pulley. adjusted the belts many many times, still doing it....so i give up. It goes away once warm up.

First thing anyone needs to do is isolate the noise.

1. Check that the serpentine belt is properly tensioned. Someone said that WD40 would work. As that is a lubricant and the belt is already slipping that will NOT HELP. Yes it will quiet the slipping, but it will not stop the belt from slipping, and will actually help it slip more. Not to mention that a slipping belt will have a very bad effect on anything driven by the belt. That includes the AC, Water Pump and Alternator. 2 of those are critical to the cars operation. I repeat do not spray lube of any kind on the belt. It is eaither slipping becuase it is loose or wearing out. So either tighten it or replace it.

2. Air Pump. This injects air into the exhaust to help the catalytic converyer start working during colder starts. This makes noise, so it could be coming from this. It is locates in the engine bay, to the left of the engine. It is attached to the passenger wheel well, right next to the left mount of the strut bar. To check and see if it is this, then disconnect it and start the car. You will get a CEL becuase this is part of the emissions system. If it doesn't make the noise then that is what the noise on start up is. This is supposed to make noise to a point. If it seems excessive then it would be a good idea to have the dealer look at it.

Did you install the pulley with the belt it came with, or did you reuse the stock belt. If you reused the stock belt it is making the noise becuase it is too long, thus can't be properly tightened.

BINGO. Of course all the possible scenarios stated by various people are possibilities without getting a more detailed description of the "squeal." For all we know, the various squeals people are citing may be different kinds of sounds coming from different sources.

BUT, I will bet most of the people's problems with "squeal" will be solved with new coils (along with new spark plugs). If I were a betting man, that's where I would start.

^^^yup, failing air pump.

Yes, used the belts and bolts that came with it, bolts were torque to spec. Adjusted many times, even have shop foreman checked it for me. possible cause was that belts are new, and need time for them to wear in....but after like 2 months.....still making the noise when cold.

then i give up....and i dont' really feel any power at all like most people says, but whatever, i m too lazy to take it back out

I have a intermittent squeal, but it can show itself under all situations, including when the engine is warm. Time to play with belt tensions...

how can anyone mess up diagnosing this problem? how many belts do we have?
2!

use any lube spray JUST to isolate the noise. you can buy belt lube...but why?
if you're sure its a belt squeal and are familiar with the noise...first thing when starting car in the morning, spray alt/water pump/crank belt...if thats not it. well, there's only one more now isn't there?

the only thing that comes to my mind when a squeal is mentioned...its a belt. of its something else...i'd get confused with using a ssqueal as a description. but thats just me...

Distinguish between "squeal" and "chirp." I think people are describing all kinds of different things.

You aren't supposed to put any lubricant on the belts!!! I can see your reasoning is that it will isolate the noise.

What you need to understand is that the belts work off of friction. The pulley surface and belt surface are meant to grip each other. In lubricating the belt, you will cause it to slip. This slipping will wear the pulleys and belt smooth. So even when the lubricant wears away the belt will still slip, probably worse than before.

And if you have never used belt lubricant before it is not really a lubricant at all. It is meant to re-condition the belt, and make it grip better. I would say it is more of a dressing than a lube. I kind of equate it to what VHT does to your tires at a 1/4 mile track.

In short, my point is, don't put any wd-40 or similar lubricant products. If you have a squeal that is from the belt. Check to see that it is tensioned properly. Now check to see that it is actually coming from the belt, and not the pulley. Then if it is from the belt use a product specifically designed for belts found at any autostore.

I REPEAT DO NOT USE LUBRICANT ON THE BELTS!!

juice, i think you are getting confused with the location of usage on such sprays as belt lube. and not only that, you don't religiously use them. they are there to prevent cracking of the belt surface, but i understand you're concern.

but like i said, use belt lube on the surface AND near the sides of the pulley where it will most likely cause the squeal. may not necessarily use it "inside" the belt.

that being said, i hope you can understand where usage of a lube can help a belt. and it would be wise to use "belt lube" or even a silicone lubricant is also acceptable. but if you stand by your claim...you outta get auto supply stores to not sell those lubes and dealerships using them. and also post your findings on where in the "books" that states using the lubes will have more negative affect then a positive.

what i simply want people to understand is improper use of any product can obviously yield bad results... but your claim simply doesn't make sense...except the use of wd40, which is a petrol product that may rot rubber.

thoroughly read your post again. may have failed to completely understand by your choice of words... but here it is.

DO NOT USE A LUBRICANT ON YOUR BELT, except acceptable belt dressing reconditioning lube.

changed.

Yeah, I think I could have worded it better. I think we are both hinting at the same thing just going about it in different ways.

We both got confused by each others posts. I know what you are saying now though.

All I was trying to say is to not use a spray lubricant like WD-40, but rather the approved belt dressings found at auto parts stores. Stuff like Full Pull and others that are meant to condition belts.

Basically just trying to prevent some dumbass from soaking his belt in WD-40 and then coming back on here and blaming us for his stupidity.

Mine was making a sqeal upon starting the car up. I put in the Mazmart High Flow and now the squeal is gone but it makes a wired whirring noise.

I might replace the belt anyways and see what happens

^^jedi...if you're talking bout a performance waterpump....please redo it asap.

sounds like its the waterpump seated improperly, overloading the bearing/water seal.

may want to check if your pulleys are torqued down evenly. wasting $ on a new belt will not remedy a problem caused by something else...so check into that.
i'd highly recommen it.

you're looking at a leak either way depending if its too late or not in its current condition. so look into you're install again.

no sweat juice. its all good. i just want to clarify and be as specific as i can be, being i'm mainly on here in tech section often. and i'd like to help whenever i can.
and sometimes improper wording can carry inaccurate information the wrong way.
so glad thats taken care of.

well that's disturbing. I actually had it installed by a very reputable Rotary Shop (I was feelin' lazy)
No leaks at all so far, I'll check all the torque specs on the pulleys when I get home. (It's been sitting in my garage for a week now)

reputable or not, people fuck up...we're not machines now. even a master-tech will fuck up from time to time, just gonna be a less rare occurance with someone certified and one thats not.

whats tthat job take?...15 mins tops? bring it back if you can't do it yourself, or i can even help you.

I can do it, it's not that difficult. I do appreciate the offer to help though. (gotta love this forum!)

I've got a 2nd car so I haven't been driving the 8 too much lately. I'll definitely check it out and report back my findings. You're right though, even the best of people make mistakes from time to time.

I was actually in the bay while they were installing the pump but I was too busy staring under the hood of a sexy looking 3rd gen they had in there. :banghead:

and how long ago was this? if its long, then straightening out the stressed bearing may actually promote the leak...say if thats in case the problem and its too late. just hope your ass that its not too much outta spec. and make it known that the problem was due to improper install...so if/when they fix it and you get a leak a few months down, you can tell them about your situation. and if they deny you of anything... then obviously keep your receipts and point to the BBB sign in their shop and state your promise to get a resollution by any means.

shit, i'd be scared. but why would people lose their job over a few $$$ bucks?

just get it done soon man. or inspect it further if its a concern.

something people gotta understand, a simple install is not just how simple it is to install it. but installing it right.

see, changing my pulley is just 5 bolts. but putting it back to its original condition or better, or making the proper adjustments is what makes it a correct and proper install. not just the sum of how quick and easy it was to put the bolts back in the same place. feel me?

so given pulleys are in-n-out (mmm, hungry now) in 15mins, i'd leave room for adjustments and such. and at the first sign of fuck up, i'd recheck and correct.

the worst thing is to send someone off and only to have them come back and tell you there still is a problem. i mean, what'll your boss think? right?

if you're comfortable with the tech and can have a word with him on the side, then do it. a competent tech should be apologetic and more than happy to accomodate you rather than have his reputation constantly mentioned to his face.
and if thats the case...then i'd hope he don't stay there long fucking up more cars.

sorry for the thread jack

So question, does anyone have a way to check the pulley tension? I'd like either a place or someone with the tool to do it.

there is a belt deflection tool you can buy, but i go by feel. and the way to get proper belt tension is of when the motor is cold. so if its loose, you can just turn the adjustment screw a few turns...given that you've loosen the hold-down bolt first so the adjustment can be made. there are 2 hold-down bolts to loosen, and one adjustment screw.

if you're still confused, i may be able to help you...or someone who is good at posting up pics will hopefully chime in soon enough.

Thanks. I know how to adjust the tension, I'm just not sure if my belt tension is in the ballpark and wish to go with something a little more scientific than the 90 degree belt twist rule.

So uhh... when you adjust the tension of your serpentine belt, be sure that you loosen the two bolts holding down the alternator first or else you'll be like me and feel like an idiot after you've yielded the bracket that holds the alternator adjuster screw. This is a good lesson on remembering to do things properly; don't try to go too fast.