Clutch Pedal SNAP OFF 8 Year Warranty-Recall ~~~
Got my letter and with it a reimbursement form to send in if you've already replaced the clutch pedal (which I did 2 months ago). Filled out the form and sent it in with the receipt for the pedal. We'll see if I get my $100 back.
I have a lot on my mind at the moment..
Yes, there was what we call a Plain Number
N3H1-18-100 Start of Production Used up to March 2006
N3H1-18-100A from March 2006 to December 2007
N3H1-18-100B from December 2007 to present.
As I said the 9U is a local Distributor Number (USA or NA) that signifies a local sourced Part., but Factory Approved.
In this case of the Coils, MNAO must of done a "Bulk Order" from MMC Japan at a special price, as they were around $20+ Cheaper (memory) for the 100B 9U's when compared to the 100B's.
But, when I got my N3H1-18-100B 9U's from Montgomery's last year or so they were in Genuine Mazda Parts Boxes for each Coil, with the local Part Number Sticker placed over the top of the Original Printed Part Number on Genuine Mazda Box.
So when I peeled it off it read N3H1-18-100B
These are the Original and Genuine Mazda Japan OEM Coils with a local Part Number.
Naturally this is MNAO Parts way of distinguishing their Bulk Buy Stock.
As I have said before Mazda Australia Parts use 99 at end of Part Number, again this tells us that it is "usually" locally sourced parts.
Apologies mate..
BTW, You should not find any 9U Part Numbers in ANY Genuine Mazda EPC, just like you won't see it in the UK and Australian genuine Mazda EPC.
IF there is a "locally sourced" part number change to find out one orders or enters the OEM Part Number and the Packing Slip or Invoice will show a supers-session to the "new" local Part Number.
In some cases (even like the coils) Both Parts are available, usually as one is cheaper as it is made or imported from another country.
Our local Mazda Parts Departments are sometimes told via a Parts Flash Bulletin if there is a Number(s) Change.
IF there is a "locally sourced" part number change to find out one orders or enters the OEM Part Number and the Packing Slip or Invoice will show a supers-session to the "new" local Part Number.
In some cases (even like the coils) Both Parts are available, usually as one is cheaper as it is made or imported from another country.
Our local Mazda Parts Departments are sometimes told via a Parts Flash Bulletin if there is a Number(s) Change.
Anyone in Puerto Rico?
Did anyone living in Puerto Rico get a letter from Mazda yet? MAZDA NA seems to consider PR as a foreign country, so I was wondering if that recall applies here. Still waiting to hear an official answer from Mazda, but was wondering if anyone here got it?
So this probably not gonna apply to you.
Just got my letter today, ooooosh ! my pedal is sqeaking. might be a good time to get it replace.
Here is the goodies ...





Mail came today, left the house, came back, Pedal is here

Now looking it closer, does it look exact same ****? better material? the weld spot is a bit different. anything to do with this recall ?
if its the same **** then why did they update the part? If the problem is really what they said it was due to "improper tighten spec" , then I don't really see a point of updating the part. So they must did something to it.
I won't be able to take my bracket out until Monday or Tuesday for a side by side comparison.
Last edited by nycgps; Oct 30, 2010 at 12:33 AM.
Part Number has changed because it is a 3 piece kit.
You don't get the two switches when you normally order the separate Clutch Bracket.
Frankly I don't know why Mazda Japan have included the switches..
Probably because they think if the metal is fatigued or broken or worn out then they may think the switches could also be an issue?
It will be interesting to see the comparison.
You don't get the two switches when you normally order the separate Clutch Bracket.
Frankly I don't know why Mazda Japan have included the switches..
Probably because they think if the metal is fatigued or broken or worn out then they may think the switches could also be an issue?
It will be interesting to see the comparison.
yea, when I first saw the bag I was like wtf ? why is there a box ?
Opened it and like ooo its both switches.
Now its daytime got more light, I looked at the bracket again hmm I don't see any difference ... gonna do a side by side comparison on monday
Opened it and like ooo its both switches.
Now its daytime got more light, I looked at the bracket again hmm I don't see any difference ... gonna do a side by side comparison on monday
Lol I will wait but I will let you decide for yourself. Like I said before it is the same thing as before the change is they are including the switches as part of the "new" part number like ASH said.
or maybe they changed supplier and the material has improved? no idea.
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This "new" assembly looks like the same crap what was in the car already (and it broke). 
I can't believe they'd just use the same **** and hope it does not break again until the owner runs out of the extended warranty... but it seems that's exactly what they are doing.
So typical... just do the bare minimum to get out of the responsibility.
I can't believe they'd just use the same **** and hope it does not break again until the owner runs out of the extended warranty... but it seems that's exactly what they are doing.
So typical... just do the bare minimum to get out of the responsibility.
This "new" assembly looks like the same crap what was in the car already (and it broke). 
I can't believe they'd just use the same **** and hope it does not break again until the owner runs out of the extended warranty... but it seems that's exactly what they are doing.
So typical... just do the bare minimum to get out of the responsibility.
I can't believe they'd just use the same **** and hope it does not break again until the owner runs out of the extended warranty... but it seems that's exactly what they are doing.
So typical... just do the bare minimum to get out of the responsibility.
Does the shop manual give an installation procedure? If not, I'm looking forward to seeing the TSB that defines one.
Ken
Pretty scary if you ask me!
Luckily enough for the diy guys all that's required are a welder and some scrap metal. Sucks for the average users though.
100K miles warranty is better than nothing I guess ?
It is actually three nuts that hold the bracket.
The two are on the firewall plate and one up top.
I can see that if the top one was not tight the bracket would flex badly cuz it would be free to slide on top.
But that cannot be what they mean.... could it??
The two are on the firewall plate and one up top.
I can see that if the top one was not tight the bracket would flex badly cuz it would be free to slide on top.
But that cannot be what they mean.... could it??
Last edited by DarkBrew; Nov 1, 2010 at 11:16 AM.
As opposed to finger tightening all, then torquing them final in a couple of stages.
Since the yahoo method can warp and ruin a brake drum or disk, it ought to be able to do a job on a thin sheet metal part.
Ken
I know there is 3 in total, I said 2 because only 2 of them needs "love" from the socket + ratchet. the last one is plastic you just push it in.
Refer to the photo a few posts back
The bolt up near the springs
Last edited by DarkBrew; Nov 2, 2010 at 08:49 AM.



