RunawayRotor

i have a 2004 with 75k on it, just purchased it a month ago. one owner car, seems like it was taken care of. bone *** stock car. this is my 5th rotory powered mazda, all been rx7 til this car. all was going well until 2 weeks ago when my cel popped on.
codes 300 and 302. checked the forums here to find its common for the coils to take a dump after some time and the ones in the car looked like the originals as well as the wires and the plugs...the plugs were actually all rusty on the outside so i figured it was time to update all the ignition components. sent a order over to Mr Charles Hill for a BHR coil kit and replaced the whole works...plugs, cables, and coils. just installed all the goodies and cleared the codes. went for my test ride only to find the cel is blinking now with a 302 code pending on the reader...ive checked for other post on this issue only to find no difinitive answer on what else it might be. i know with the massive population of ppl here that some one has to know.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Wow ... fixed ... dude I'm not saying you have to be a English major but some hard returns and capitals helps one to read it. phew

Ok P0302 is a misfire in the rear rotor

Check to make sure you have connected the grounding wire that comes with the BHR Coil kit correctly. Makes sure its a good ground.
Double check you have connect the plugs leads to the correct plugs.

I think its the ESS that detects misfires, make sure its clean.
It's super simple to remove and clean ... just becareful the single bolt that holds it on can corrode and snap off.

The rear rotor may also have bad compression.

Last but not least if you suspect the coils are causing the problem .. Contact BHR they have an EPIC customer service reputation.

RunawayRotor

Sorry about my sentence structure...will try to do better this time.
I've checked the ESS already and i dont see any junk on it, wiped it off with a rag and got very little road grime.

I tried to do the 20 stomp reset, but cant seem to get my car to respond to it.

How does one know if that ESS is going bad, or if it does go bad? I mean its just an inductive pick up, pretty hard to kill unless it gets smashed.

I very much doubt the new BHR kit has anything to do with this since the old coil packs were causing the same issue and i know i put everything in the right way...ive seen what happens when u cross plug wires on the rx7's.

The car runs really good, has lots of power, and i dont feel any missing when its WOT to the buzzer. Ofc it has the rotory hic-up at idle but thats normal.

I checked the MAF on the code reader and it seems to flow at a linear rate...pulling about 210 on a third gear WOT at 8500. Would be curious to know if anyone else has a flow number to compare to see if thats normal.

I've even checked the O2 sensors and from what i see on the reader they are both acting normal...exhaust temp is around 1400-1600 depending on load.

wcs

iTrader: (2)

Nice details.

Never known an ESS to go bad .. like you said .. needs to be damaged, but they do get dirty.

Flow rate in g/s at 8500 is typically 210 .... you are pretty good there, not great but not bad either.

If you are interested I can post logs of my g/s when I was NA ... ummm wait .. can't remember if I still have them. Anyways that about the norm value, a bit higher would be nice.

EGT sounds good.

Alright, have you cleaned the Maf.

And more importantly, it seems like you are able to get some data ... any chance you are able to read the AFR's?

If you do have a pooched O2 sensor you maybe be running too rich or in OL.

It's hard to say ... have you checked the Catalytic?

I'm just trying to cover all the basics with you.
I can tell you understand what you are doing, these are just common failure points with the RX8

wcs

iTrader: (2)

eWwww fuel pump

Good thinking, never thought of that

RunawayRotor

Update...and i feel kinda stupid for this, but after seeing all the suggestions posted, i ripped back into the car again.
I started cleaning everything and checking all the connections i could reach. When i got down to the ESS sensor, i thought instead of just cleaning the top of it again, I would remove it and throughly check it out. Removed the bolt from the bottom and unwrapped a bunch of electrical tape from around where the plug snaps on to the sensor...only to find, the tape was the only thing holding the connection in place.
Apparently, somewhere along the way someone broke the end of the sensor almost completly off and thought that electical tape was the answer.
So, tomorrow im off to the dealer to get a new sensor...and im sorry for wasting everyones time but i do appreciate the responses.