car wont start, wont even crank
 

So once again I am having issues with my 8. Recently my car somehow overheated out of the blue and the coolant reservoir cap blew off and the coolant reservoir cracked on the top so i got a new one. When installing it i broke off the little nipple of the radiator u connect the coolant reservoir to. Got a new radiator a few days later.

So thats just to fill u in on what happened. So i installed everything on my own and put everything back together exactly hot it was. The 1 thing i fucked up was when i put the battery back, i accidently put it backwards, but disconnected it right away. Thats the only thing i can say i did wrong.

So now the battery is on right and i go to start my car and as soon as i connected my battery the horn went off non stop, so i took out the fuse and put it back and it solved that problem. So now i go to start it, the dash instruments turn on but no crank at all, nothing else worked, i checked every single little thing and only the dash works, the wiper, the horn and the headlight (not the signal light or the small little light on the inside, just the main one)

so anyone know what might be wrong? im planning on taking the car apart 2morrow again to see if i connected anything wrong.

check all fuses. Check to see if your battery is fully charged.
You didn't try starting the car with the bat backwards, did you?

yeah im gonna check every single fuse and ground wire 2morrow during the day...and i dont think i did, i dont remember, would that have screwed something up? i remember i took off the batter every time it was not being used, so it hassent been on alot

also apperently autozone tols me my battery is dead somehow..but i had my friend come with the same battery from his own 9, and still nothing, same thing happene

Check the 30A ACC fuse.

ill check that in the morning and let yall know how it is

I would check every fuse in the vehicle. If all of them checkout move onto the starter.

^thanks! and yeah i was thinking about the starter 2

Does it have GAS? :squint:

lol, yes it has gas, full tank almost...and no fuses are blows, just checked them all

Time to take it to a dealer and pay a diagnostic fee.

uuuuugh, well that would have to be all the way until omnday anyways since its not open real late on the weekends

Wow... you're quick to give up...

I would grab a meter and start doing some real troubleshooting.
Use this as your guide:
Attachment 170761

^ diagnostics are only $80, :dunno: who knows the might find other stuff wrong as well

oh jebuz, i hate those diagrams -___-

lol, and yeah, im not gonna go to the dealer so fast, its 99 bucks to check it and well over 150 to get a tow truck to take my car to the dealer

plus a very very large towing fee, and keep in mind i just spent 300 bucks on a new radiator, 150 on a coolant reservoir, like 30 bucks on coolant, and yeah, thats almost 500 bucks i spent on crap in a week already, going for some home repairs 1st! lol

:scratchhe: actually MAZDA offers free towing to the dealership... :squint:, i remeber real good when my engine blew. :yesnod:

edit: Ithink you have to go through MNAO though, some hotline number, I think its even in the Manual

they just told me they didnt..

LOL... its not that scary.
Its simply showing you what is required for the car to start.
If you can measure/check voltage with a meter, you're in good shape.
Use the diagram to test each device for voltage.
Doesn't matter if you start with the source (battery) or destination (starter).
If you don't have voltage to the starter, go backwards to the relay, then go to the starter switch, and so on...
If you don't know how to test the relay, skip it and go to the starter switch.
Keep working until you find voltage along the path.

ok cool, all i need now is a voltage meter..lol..im just gonna call some friends of mine who are UTI students, i think they are required to have a voltage meter for school..lol :P

^I think you can loan one from AUTOZONE

Just keep in mind a couple things...
1) Look at the diagram and you'll notice the battery is connected directly to the starter.
When you look at the starter you'll see a white protective cover... behind that is a stud with live/constant voltage. Verify voltage there.
2) You'll also see a smaller cable next to the white cover... this is for the starter solenoid and only receives voltage when the key is turned to 'START'. So you'll need someone in the car to test this point.
3) If you look at the diagram you'll notice the starter switch also requires the key to be turned.

Just think of the electrical paths as roads... and look at what is required to travel from point A to point B... and so on...
Once you understand the basics, you'll be able to utilize electrical schematics better.
Better than random guessing you'll get from many.
Good luck!

^Good Help JON :bigok:

thanks jon! ill get to this sometime today

And looking at the diagram, I ruled out the 120A MAIN and 15A IG KEY fuses since you mentioned having power to various other devices that also use these fuses.
Hence why I recommended checking the 30A ACC fuse only (following the road) :)

So what was the source of the issue? My car is in the body shop and they can't start it. Tachometer works and needles move up and down but there is NOT crancking whatsoever-- just a click when you try to start it. Battery is fine, lights work but radio, windows etc do not. I suggested they check the main fuse before they do anything else. The car was fine when I took it there.