New Yorker

Sounds like you may be throwing a lot of money replacing things without actually knowing what the cause of the problem is.

Your Mazda dealer couldn't diagnose the cause? That's odd. A Mazda rotary mechanic should certainly be able to figure it out. If he couldn't, find a better one. Cost you less than replacing expensive parts *****-nilly.

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

I never diagonosed this and have never tried to fix it. Don't fix anything that isn't broken. It only happens when it is really hot, maybe once every two to three years. I have replaced those parts due to them going bad. I never asked mazda, my car has never seen mazda, I have unlimited tools at my own disposal, so I fix everything myself. I have never just replaced parts just to throw money at it. I have replaced parts cause they are bad. I also don't throw any codes besides the one for the cat being gone.

J8635621

iTrader: (10)

When this happens, are you almost out of gas? I'd be willing to bet you have 1/4 tank or less.

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

No I'm not actually I was almost completely full of gas. When I got to Springfield MO, I filled up the day I got there, and this was a couple of days later, but didn't fill up again until over a week later, when I was getting ready to leave. I always use 92 or 93 octane as well, so it wasn't that either.

J8635621

iTrader: (10)

That was the most scientific answer to my question. Thank you.

RIWWP

iTrader: (2)

My last shot:

The only thing that makes sense is that it's the fuel pump.
A) It's the only part that could cause this that has persisted through your various engines
B) it's a part that has known failure methods due to heat

Most fuel pump failures are not related to ambient temps, but ARE still heat problems. It's possible that for whatever reason your pump has only barely adequate cooling under normal circumstances, and when you bump the ambient over 100F, that becomes insufficient cooling, and you experience fuel delivery problems.

Why?

I don't know. Perhaps the gas in your gas tank is staying at a higher heat than most 8s. Perhaps this is because of a missing or damaged fuel tank heat shield. Perhaps your fuel pump has a failure within it that is limiting the fuel's ability to cool it. Perhaps something leaked through your left rear seat and is contaminating the wiring/mechanism. Perhaps you have something sitting in your fuel filter that doesn't completely block it but causes the pump to work just a bit harder than normal. I don't know.

But it's the only thing that makes sense given the list of stuff you have ruled out.

shadycrew31

iTrader: (6)

Wait....

So you don't have your $2000 reman installed yet right?

You are stalling at lights on an engine you overheated?

When you get the new engine bump the thread with your findings. $5 says you have **** compression from your overheat job.

TeamRX8

iTrader: (25)

warning, genius at work

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

My car doesn't have an engine in it so of course it isn't driveable. And I never said I was stalling at lights. I said when it was 102+ degrees in Springfield Missouri last July I stalled at a light. It wouldn't start back up for about five minutes or so. I have compression enough to start the car with the starter and it ran fine before I pulled it out. $5 bucks says the compression is still within mazda limits. I've had an engine with the apex seals gone, I know the symptoms, and I know the end results. It got so bad I had to hold my foot on the gas to idle at lights and stops. Always parking on top of a hill.

bse50

Since you already know better... why did you start the thread in the first place?
They actually told you what was happening several times. Low compression or bad fuel pump.
End of the story.

Another remote chance is that the POS airfilter you have, with a wrong size MAF pipe, alters the readings enough for your car to stall at times when it is really hot and it heatsoaks.
Start by finding a used airbox since you have unlimited tools and don't replace parts that don't need to be replaced.

Hesselrode

iTrader: (3)

Thats exactly what I said about the POS K&N, but no one has yet to explain to me why it would be the fuel pump, and wouldn't the fuel pump have already gone out after 100,000 miles later if that was the case? I under stand they said low compression or fuel pump, but wouldn't I have other symptoms besides just stalling at high temps. And it was never low compression. I just had to explain it over and over again to people that have read previous threads and didn't understand my issue that I posted. They thought low compession cause my water seal which didnt have anything to do with this issue. And about the tools I have unlimited tools and lifts at my disposal for $3 an hour on the military installation I am stationed to.

bse50

It may very well have been compression, without relating it to your water seal problem. It may be unrelated and just bad luck.

The fuel pump is known to go bad and start overheating, especially after 60\70k miles. The sock may get dirty, it may have problem scavenging fuel and the list goes on. This usually happens when you are low on fuel and on fast left sweepers because the pump doesn't get enough "cooling"from the gas. It also happen just for **** and giggles when the pump is old.
The reason why it starts after a while is simple: the pump had enough time to cool off.

99% it is either compression or fuelling. the other 1% is a bunch of other possibilities.