sounds more like a starter/ignition and flooding issue to me

 

Yeah it does Zoom.

I will do a deflood procedure as well.

Carbon- the Cobb AP was registering 280-301 rpms for the new starter.

 

Get a proper compression test done using a rotary engine compression tester if you really want accurate numbers.

 

If you have the BHR ignition and a starter spinning at 300 rpm's its impossible to flood your car.

Crank on it with the gas pedal down you will hear a change in exhaust tone thats how you will know the housings are free and clear of junk. Once thats done give it 30 seconds or so then try and start the car.

I am 100% convinced your engine is damaged though and you cranking on it is causing more damage.

 

Ok, I will let you know what I find out. Final attempt.
If no go, then I will be looking for a Mazda remanufacture motor.

Anybody install the Black Super seals in there car yet?

 

Im going back to an electrical problem.

 

Yea they never sealed right, flat compression on one rotor. I still need to take my engine apart to confirm 100% that was the cause.

When in doubt stick with OEM or get the rotors milled out and get OEM FD seals.

 

Wow the super seals didn't work out. It really seems the Renesis is its own beast from the other rotary motors. All I hear is how those seals are a Godsend and how well they work and how they last longer than the stock OEM seals in the older 13b motors.

So far the only thing that works best on a Renesis as far as seals go are OEM it seems like.

Well I tried deflooding the car and that did not work. The ony thing I have left to try is actually replacing the MAFS or trying another ecu before I pull the motor. My cousin suppose to be coming down next week and we are going to swap ecu and test if that is the problem. Also swap out MAFs. If that doesn't help, then pulling the motor out.

 

Did you ever get it properly compression tested? Your diagnosis methods don't make much sense.

 

Bump. So, did this frog croak or what?

 

we need a :facepalm: forum

 

I'm guessing those 10,000RPM jaunts did what I thought they would do.

 

My 8 stopped at traffic lights and would not restart. It was trying to when it appeared that the battery was flat, however when towed and I tried to bumb start it in second gear, the back end locked up. Any ideas?

 

I don't think RX-8 will bump start properly because the battery must supply current to the coils. (obviously) you must try it with a fully charged battery.

 

Try sticking a wrench on the front main pulley bolt and rotating the engine by hand in each direction. If it moves freely, there is no reason your rear wheels would stop rotating when you let the clutch engage.

Not true. If the engine is spinning without firing, the alternator is still spinning and supplying the needed current for the ignition. The engine has to be spinning though. No spinning engine means no current, and well, no spark, fuel, or compression either.

 

That is not true of all cars. many older vehicles can be push started with dead batteries, most of the time you could just use a higher gear before popping the clutch. This will not work on some modern vehicles. I do not know if the 8 is one of them though. I have never push started mine.

 

The only thing the battery is doing is storing some energy in a part of the electrical circuit. Even if it's below voltage, that is all it's doing. The only way for a dead battery to prevent the alternator from providing current to the coils is if the battery is so far dead that there is no physical electrical connection left between the two poles. Otherwise, it doesn't matter as spinning an alternator at all, for any reason or method, will generate a current, and once there is enough voltage for the ECU to light up, the coils to fire, the fuel pump to prime, and the injectors to fire, it will start.

Assuming there isn't another problem preventing it, like no gas in the gas tank, no electrical ground from the engine block, no compression on the engine, etc...

 

I'm not arguing the logic behind it, all I know is that it does not work on every car, for whatever reason. I remember you could pull battery cables off older cars and they would still run. Most modern cars will die as soon as that circuit is severed. Is that due to more sensitive electronics, ECU programmed that way, I don't know. All I'm saying is that it does not always work. As technology progresses all that old school stuff does not necessarily apply.

 

Understood on the battery cables. On modern cars, the battery is part of the circuit so yes, it will die because there is no longer any current returning to the alternator. A dead battery that isn't 100% drained still has an electrical connection however, even if no charge to add to the circuit, and is very different from disconnecting the cables, which severs the connection.

 

So if the battery is dead as in 100 percent dead no current whatsoever, you agree it will not work?

 

+1

I pushed start couple of rx-8 with dead battery, one fell below 10.2 v.

 

if it's dead dead dead like what I had a while ago with my Optima (1.5V)

then no, it won't work

even if u can jump start it somehow, it's not recommended cuz it will kill your alternator IF u don't change ur battery ASAP.

 

That's not dead.

 

a battery at that voltage is considered dead ,cuz even if u can somehow charge it back to 12.4v, its not gonna live long.

 

Dead is no current, perhaps the term you should be using is low battery as in too low to turn the starter motor. I can assure you if the battery is DEAD it won't work.