They can set up and run a compression test before the engine cools down? I'm not sure how it's done on a rotary, but I know on a piston engine they have to remove the spark plug in each cylinder and put a pressure transducer in its place, then crank the engine via the starter motor to run that cylinder through its compression cycle. I guess it could be done if the techs work quickly, but I doubt they'd be happy about doing something like this on a hot engine. Did you have to press them to do this?

Also, is low compression supposed to throw a code in the PCM?

 

this explains the test for the recall... it is the test that works the best..

read it lots of great info...

http://www.finishlineperformance.com...res_recall.pdf

beers

 

i explained to the tech that when my car was cold that it drove fine, only after i had drivien it for a while is when the problem occured. they knew i was not trying to get a free engine i just wanted to know what was wrong with the car. im not entirley sure what the process is for them to check compression on a wankel (its probably somthing just as weird as th engine itself) . dont let the dealer try to jerk you around and if they do go find another dealer, dont let this problem go man if you do youll regret it when she pops.

 

I have been trying to find threads about this noise for a while now. I am getting this same noise, and it is getting more and more audible. Usually you can only hear it in 6th gear, in the RPM range that Railton stated. I notice it best around 70-75 mph cruuising in 6th but I can also hear it in 5th gear at about the same speed. If you aren't on a smooth stretch of highway, it goes unnoticeable because of the road noise. I haven't noticed a huge loss of power, but it does seem slower to accelerate until you hit about 5k rpm's.

I also have recently noticed a difference in exhaust note when I start the car cold. this morning there was also a loud sort of a whine or hiss until the RPM's came down a little.

I don't have the other problems Railton had, except a bit of a rough idle (been that way since I got my engine replaced) but I am very curious if at least the flapping noise went away after he got his cat replaced.

I've never pre-mixed, have no mods, and only use Castrol 5-20. My new engine was a reman and has about 20k miles on it, the car has a total of 57k miles.

So does anyone know for sure what this sound might be? I am taking it in on Monday to have it checked out.

 

airpump

 

Thanks for the reply... are you saying that in repsonse to the change in exhaust note or hiss or both? I was thinking the muffled sound of the exhaust when cold may have to do with the cat. Also, is this airpump noise something I should be worried about?

 

yake it to the dealer if you have a waranty. trust me that muffled sound is only goin to get worse with time no matter what you do. that wonderful sound is your engine losing compression, i heard it for about 20k miles and now i have a dead car. get mazda to run a compression check or youll be sorry. i hate to give bad news but better now than later with no waranty.

 

Well apparently it wasn't the CAT causing the noise for you, then.

I wonder if my dealer would be willing to do the compression test under warranty. I do have some definite symptoms of low compression.. the rough idle and longer crank when warm. My guess is that it is probably low but maybe not low enough to be considered failing, or I would have some serious performance issues.

Anyone know how much it would cost to pay for a compression test? Any other tests I should think about getting while i'm there on Monday?

 

sorry - whine /hiss nothign to worry about

 

railton and ozzy should both have their radiator and heater core "burped". i believe you have air trapped in that system which is causing your "plastic bag" sound

 

railton and ozzy read this thread https://www.rx8club.com/series-i-tech-garage-22/more-marbles-can-observations-93836/page6/ from post 231 onward

 

could be stuck secondary intake barrel ....

 

OK...and how does one fix that?
Railton

 

you dont fix that.

 

I agree with Railton, my noise is definitely not coming from behind the glove compartment and isn't as poppy sounding. The "marbles in a can" threads are the first thing I read when trying to figure out this noise. Also, it isn't constant. It comes and goes, may be one flap then several, then stop. It's definitely sounds throaty, like it is flapping on or inside a pipe, so that's why I thought exhaust. It sounds like it is just under the passenger seat which is the side the exhaust runs on. I've tried to figure out if it is directly related to throttle response, but I don't think it is.

I don't know how he is going to get a good sound clip of it, though.

I have to re-schedule my appt for today but if I find something out, I will post.

 

Well if min spec. is 6.9 then you are within spec. and the engine is fine.

 

Obviously Math was not your strong suit. 6.9 at 250 RPM. Compression test was done at approx. 280 RPM. Look at the chart to extrapolate.
Railton

 

And today....(drum roll please)....a CEL!
Railton

 

This is good to know. I dropped my car off for an oil change and to have them check out this noise and they noticed my hood cover had a flap that was loose, so of course they didn't even attempt to find the noise. I was mad at myself for not taking the thing off beforehand... So I took the nose cover off, it still made the noise for a while, and now it's gone. I'm sure it will reappear at 60,001 miles.

Glad to hear you are getting your problems fixed.

 

I just took my 04 in for a loss of power for the second time today. I complained several months after the emission recall was done that i felt a power loss. They checked it out and said "everything is in spec."
On the recall they only changed the plugs and flash.
So, i took it in again today. The service rep said upfront without knowing anything yet that I am responsible for the labor costs. This is because I am outside of factory warranty.
If they find anything then they will figure out who is responsible for the labor costs. I am only covered for the powertrain and the cat. If it is anything outside of that I am responsible for any and all costs. There is a slim chance mazda would cover something outside engine and cat becasue I did complain about the loss of power before my general factory warranty was up.
This car was fun, but now I am thinking it is not worth the trouble.
I cringe at the fact I might have to pay $200 in labor for a problem that has been plaguing me for months and I get even more depressed thinking they might not (want to) find anything.
My baby is now a red-headed stepchild

 

Verdict is in. I am getting a new engine. However, they need to replace 4 igintion coils which costs me $369 out of pocket since my warranty is up. I guess I will suck this up and shop for a new car next year.
OR can i tell them just to replace the engine, not the coils, save money and trade in the car?

 

coils cost a little over $100 from online dealers such as rosenthal mazda or onlinemazdaparts.com. you can put them in yourself (not hard, search this site for DIYs). say that's $250 difference right there.

It may be easier to sell the car if you put some decent miles on the new engine (to alleviate any fears about the new engine).

FWIW, I personally know two people with replaced engines that are still running great.

I also doubt that you want to replace the engine without replacing the coils. It may not run right and then it may be hard to even trade in.

 

Well, nearly a year after starting this thread, I am finally getting a new engine. My dealership finally got a tech who knows what he's doing with these cars, and he spent a lot of time on the phone with the Mazda Tech Hotline. They agreed to replace the engine. I guess it's a good temporary solution, but I have no confidence in the longevity of this engine anymore.

One thing that's bothering me is that the dealership is trying to get me to play for spark plug replacement. Doesn't the new engine come with spark plugs?! Or is it still my responsibility since it's a "maintenance" item?

 

Buckeye - I would raise hell with them if it is the same dealership because they should have replaced the plugs a long time ago on Mazda's dime. They delayed until it was out of warranty. Call Mazda USA and complain as well.

If they refuse, have them put the old one in, take it home and put new ones in yourself. Just keep the receipt to show you did it yourself. You'll save close to $300.00. Not bad for 40minutes of work....

Mike

 

Im Glad You Got Mazda To Care Of You...i Wasnt So Lucky With My Endeavors. So I Just Went A Bit More Drastic And Am Still Currently Doing The Sr20 Swap.