blazz

Hi,

I'll try to make it short :P

Rx8 turbo
Custom kit, 8/12 psi, microtech ecu.
3 summers on the kit

Blown an apex seal on the rear rotor last year, put a used one this past winter, didnt run good on the rear rotor...Bad firing, so i putted a new ported one lately but i have the same problems

Problems is
The car won't start with the mazsport coils kit so i put the oem coils with hks twin power(probably blown the mazsport kit with a bad ground),
and i have to bypass the water temp sensor.

After it stars, i have to put my rpm over 1100 or else it stall.

What i found
The rear plugs leading and trailing are full of gas n oil, the front are coked even after only 5 mins.

The rear rotor seem to be running free without compression even if i try with atf oil in the plugs holes. The front rotor run very smooth but the rear put so much gas in the exhaust that i have back fire at 1000rpm. I had about 90psi compression on each cycle of both rotor.

Want to know if someone have a clue about how the rear rotor are so rich vs the front one. I tried with only the oem ecu and it have the same problems.

The plugs, cables, coil, tps and maf are brand news. The crank sensor was reset, all the vacuum hoses was checked. The microtech and the hks twinpower have green light on them. Every time i start it i do it while i boost it with another car. The injectors was checked, but not the gas pressure yet.
Don't even know how much pressure i'm suppose to have...

Need your help

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

Simpel things i would check. If one rotor is flooding and the other is not, sounds like there is a fueling issue to the rear. Which would mean injectors on the rear rotor switched around or the plugs going to the injectors on the rear rotor switched around. Could also mean bad coils or wire leads to the rear rotor. Just some minor things i woudl look into.

RX8Soldier

iTrader: (24)

was the microtech tuned to the current engine?

blazz

Phish806; the coils n wires are brand news, but i'll recheck if the coils are plugged in the good sequence. For the injectors they are in their place for sure.

Rx8soldier; not yet, is the microtech so fragile ? Isnt suppose to give me good idle ? At least, can i go with the old map to the tune shop if i dont give him boost ?

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

If you ran the microtech on the motor before it was rebuilt you would think that it would be a decent enough map to drive it to a tune. You would also assume that it would not be adding more fuel to one rotor then the other one.

IF its not the tune, then the back rotor is either getting more fuel or has a spark issue igniting the fuel.

If you know the coils and plug sires are good, then i doubt its spark replated.

Fuel related it would either be the wrong injector in the wrong spot - which you chiecked and stated it was not. could be the injector wiring being crossed on the rear rotor. Adding more fuel with a larger injector when it thinks its a smaller injector. It could also be an injector stuck open or one that has a leak. Dirty or faulty injectors can stick partially open.

blazz

Yes the microtech was there since the first year
Everythings are news on the coils/spark/ wire, maybe its a faulty ground on the rear wire ?

The injectors was checked for the leaks but again maybe one of the main wires are faulty
For the places they are going, can someone tell me wich ones are the primary, secondary etc. Causes the wires have been changed and i cannot tell by the book which one are what :S

My bigger ones are on A,D,E and F, the smaller ones are the B and C. Is it good ? Didnt change them since the first ride. And i'm sure at 99% they are at the same place as last year, but it wasnt me that put them there the first time.

Also, is the first small primary feeding till 3200rpm, second big primary between 3200-6000 and the last ones 6000+. ?

Thanks you very much for all the help

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

E and F in your chart are the front primaries. They are usually the stock red injectors. I believe they are 280cc. The fuel rail with four injectors are the secondaries and the P2s. they should all be the yellow injectors. (if it has stock injectors).

blazz

is it me or the FS/RS are supposed to be the FP2/RP2 in this pics ?


I took all the injectors off, I checked the resistance of the wires to compare it with the manual shop,

the primary ones have the same injectors as I had last year but they are aftermarket ones AND they are the good ones if i read the manual shop

and for the 4 others on the manifold, I checked the pics of last year and they are at the same spot too BUT not as the pics is showing...

on the pics, my P2's are red....and Denso brand, seem to be the oem 280cc
BUT if I check it with the multimeter, it's supposed to be the secondaries

and the secondaries on the pics are the P2's in the book (very big green aftermaket injectors, I think it's 780cc)

??

the only wires that isnt been changed, is the red denso ones...middle on the manifold, so I take it like I think: it's the secondaries 280cc oem




I'm very confused right now, can someone help me to eliminate plausible causes

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

The picture you posted up is right out of the manual on a STOCK motor this is correct. Now, since the turbo has been added and the car has been tuned by someone, they can, in theory, put any injectors anywhere as long as they tune for it. Maybe someone can look at the tune and tell you what injectors were where? Not sto sure on this one. I am kinda lost on your injector location.


On a side note. To either eliminate or confirm its the injectors. If right now the rear rotor is getting alot of fuel and the front rotor is ok, Swap injectors. Swap all the rear injectors to the correct spots for the front rotor and all the front rotor injectors to the correct spots on the rear rotor. Start the car up. If the problem has moved and the front rotor is now rich and the rear rotor is runnign correctly, then you can be sure its the fuel injectors. If the rear rotor is still rich after swapping injectors, then its not the fuel injectors but a seperate issue.

Hope this helps, i am jsut thorowing some ideas out there. maybe someone else will chime in.

9krpmrx8

iTrader: (46)

Man, what a mess. This could be so many things that it is really hard to diagnose. Depending on who tuned it, the injectors could be all wrong. Is this a Mazsport kit? If it is, I suggest changing the MAF setup and buying a Cobb AP from MM and letting him tune it. But, it sounds to me like your injectors are a combination of aftermarket ones and various stock injectors so there is no telling where they are supposed to be and if the wiring is correct.

Tampa1stRotor

iTrader: (1)

Why don't you call the guy who tuned it and ask him what injectors are supposed to go where? Seems like the most logical way to go?

blazz

Some news

I had put rear injectors to the front and front to the rear..unplugged the primary2 and secondary ones at the rear to see if with only the injectors on the enfine it will run normaly

Well, the fronts and rears injectors is still full of gas

blazz

Yes the kit is a mazsport

About the first tuner, i only know that the shop in florida is closed

blazz

Now it seems to me that the cycle isnt good

Can somebody help me to check that ?

The crank sensor are ok cause when i changed it, the engine run the same
BUT
I aint sure that the indented plate on the crank pulley are on the good position, i can see an arrow but where is he supposed to be align ? And how do i align this with the rest of the engine ? May i missplace it ? It seems to have differents dents for the ecm to know when fire and whatever else

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

I dont think you can put that plate on wrong, i believe if it will only line up wiht the holes or pins if its on in the correct position. Maybe the engine is jsut flooded now? Try to pull start or push start the car and see if it fires up.

blazz

Exactly
Only one way fit, the 3 others ways i can't bolt it in place

Yes the engine was flooded, but i try it that way
Took out the plugs, crank the engine, put some atf oil in the holes, put the plugs back, crank the engine without the fuel relay, took out again the plugs and put some dry ones, put back the relay, boost the car and TRY to restart it
...with hot water in a bottle and the coolant sensor in it




You talking about starting the car with the compression ? Wont it do the same ?

Phish806

iTrader: (4)

Push starting or pull starting the car is WAY more likely to get the car to fire over for the first time. Using the inertial of the trans/drivetrain to start the motor is going to get it to turn over and fire alot better then the starter on the car ever could.

That being said, Check everythign again before you try starting the car, make sure you have spark, fuel, and compression and that everythign is hooked up correctly. It may take a few times to pull start it but is should fire over and idle once all of the fuel is burnt out of the system where its flooded. good luck.